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Are all lubricants created equal?


Heatstroke18

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I could give two sh*ts about whether or not you use motor oil as long as you're informed of the hazards. Accusing me of spreading misinformation is silly when the MSDS says right on it "avoid contact with spilled material", if you touch it to "wash hands with soap and water", if you get any in you "the individual should be evaluated immediately by a physician as a surgical emergency" and not to use the stuff for anything other than the intended purpose. Then I pass that info along to my friends here and let them decide whether these things sound rosy and fun but get attacked for it. We deal with enough health hazards in this sport and I don't know about you but I'd prefer to limit my potential exposures. But if you think motor oil is great, knock yourself out, no one's crying about it and I won't attack you for it.

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Mobil 1 is among the safest lubes you can come in contact with. This is from the MSDS sheets of all the following oils. Numbers listed are for Health, flammability, and Reactivity.

 

Mobil 1     0. 1. 0. 

CLP.          0.  1. 0. 

G96.         1. 4. 0. 

Remoil.    1. 2. 0. 

Slick 50.  1. 3. 0. 

Slip 2000.1. 1. 0. 

LSA.          1. 1. 0. 

Hoppes.   2. 3. 0. 

Lucas oil. 2. 1. 0. 

Lucas grease. 2. 1. 0. 

 

Slide glide even had a warning of injection under the skin just like Mobil 1 had. Every single one said to wash your hands after. It became apparent that regardless of your choice they all carry very very minimal health risks. To argue otherwise is foolish.

 

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22 hours ago, Absocold said:

I could give two sh*ts about whether or not you use motor oil as long as you're informed of the hazards. Accusing me of spreading misinformation is silly when the MSDS says right on it "avoid contact with spilled material", if you touch it to "wash hands with soap and water", if you get any in you "the individual should be evaluated immediately by a physician as a surgical emergency" and not to use the stuff for anything other than the intended purpose. Then I pass that info along to my friends here and let them decide whether these things sound rosy and fun but get attacked for it. We deal with enough health hazards in this sport and I don't know about you but I'd prefer to limit my potential exposures. But if you think motor oil is great, knock yourself out, no one's crying about it and I won't attack you for it.

 You keep coming back to this surgical emergency I would consider it a emergency any time ANY chemical was injected into a human body that was not intended for that purpose.  It also dose not say that if you get any "in" you it an emergency.  In fact what it says under first aid is "INGESTION, First aid is normally not required. Seek medical attention if discomfort occurs."  You are absolutely spreading misinformation by only cherry picking part of the information.  

 

Better not use break free CLP the following is form the break free CLP MSDS

· Exposure controls
· Engineering measures Provide adequate ventilation.
· Personal protective equipment:
· General protective and hygienic measures:
Avoid close or long term contact with the skin.
Avoid contact with the eyes.
Keep away from foodstuffs, beverages and feed.
Wash hands before breaks and at the end of work.

· Engineering controls: Provide adequate ventilation.
· Breathing equipment:
Not required under normal conditions of use.
Use suitable respiratory protective device in case of insufficient ventilation.
Use suitable respiratory protective device when high concentrations are present.
· Protection of hands:
Rubber gloves
The glove material has to be impermeable and resistant to the product/ the substance/ the preparation.

Selection of the glove material on consideration of the penetration times, rates of diffusion and the
degradation
Sensibilization by the components in the glove materials is possible.

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I typically clean with breakfree clp.   Then once I wipe everything off I lubricate with WeaponShield.   I have no idea if it's the "best"  but it's never failed me in any of my guns so I have no desire to change.

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On 2/5/2019 at 7:19 AM, Joe4d said:

Retired in 08,,, Breakfree was still winning the Army tests,   Googled to see what they are using now and seems they have developed some dry film lubricant, anyone tried that ? Seems like it wouldnt float out carbon... However in dessert storm I played with dry graphite lube on a 231, and an M16A2,, seemed to work fine... although still needed CLP to clean it, just got parts dry as you could before putting on graphite powder.
Oh but bear / whale/ pig grease is still pretty good on Blackpowder as it doesnt make tar like petro oils,,, 

 

They have been testing Strike Hold and have had very positive feedback from combat use. I’ve been testing Strike Hold 1 and 2. Strike Hold 1 is an amazing cleaner. Strike Hold 2 is more environmentally friendly and it cleans OK but not nearly as a good as SH1 IMO. As far as it’s ability to lubricate, it’s been working fine in my weapons with similar results to Hornady One Shot. I just wish they would publish some ASTM standard test data like Shell four ball wear and weld test or Timken OK tests.

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On 3/25/2020 at 5:57 PM, AHI said:

I remember 15ish years ago Castrol and Moble packing there engine oil in little bottles /cans

and promoting them as gun oil.  

15 years ago ? LOL, they are still doing it,
To the OP yes they are all the same. No one is making gun lubes. They are just repackaging and grossly inflating the price of automotive and industrial lubes.
There is NOTHING any of these wonder lubes can do, that cant be done by a lube available in any automotive store for pennies on the dollar.

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Alright, screw it. My thoughts on this tired subject:

 

I know I have stated this here before, (and a dozen other forums, fb groups, etc.) but here goes again:


What brand of oil you use is less important as getting the proper viscosity for YOUR pistol. What I use in mine may be HORRIBLE in yours. Allow me to explain;
Some guns are tighter than others. Some guns have rougher rail contact than others (that gritty feel like dragging a whetstone across another. The tighter and smoother your gun is the lower viscosity oil you need. If you have something like a Les Baer that's as tight as a gnat's arse and smooth as greased glass, using a higher viscosity (thicker) oil is going to slow your slide action when you fire. This is because the oil is too thick to move in the tight confines of those close tolerance rails. In some cases (and I have experienced this on my own guns) the slide will hydraulic and stop before it goes back far enough to extract the spent case. And I have had pistols so loose that 90 wt. gear lube would have been a good idea.


You may have a gun that is not a rattle trap but not so tight a fit. A little heavier (higher viscosity) oil is going to serve you better as the oil is essentially "floating" the slide on the frame rails. In other words you don't want the metal touching any more than it has to. A lighter oil in this case is going to run out of the gap or not provide enough "bouyancy", for lack of a better word, to float the slide properly.  By the same token, a slide/frame fit that is fairly tight but a little gritty (because of machining marks left unpolished) will need a heavier oil to keep those micro-burrs from hitting each other.


It's much the same in car engines. Most of your basic production car engines are fine with 10W40. (10W30 or 5W40 in winter for easier starts) when you get into more precisely made engines, Jaguar, BMW, Mercedes, etc they recommend lower viscosity oil. My '06 Lincoln LS, engine by Jaguar, uses 5W20. ANd I can tell you for a fact that putting 10W30 in it is a bad idea. (don't ask me how I know.) On the other hand, if you have a 1980 Chevy Citation with 300,000 miles on it (you deserve an award) you prob'ly need at least a 5W50-10W50 or a bottle or two of motor honey to stop it from smoking. Same is true of auto-pistols. That slide is operating in very similar conditions as the pistons in your engine. 


So, here is where you NEED to be TOTALLY HONEST. Not with me or anyone else, but with yourself. IS your pistol that tight? IS it really that smooth? If it is Remoil might be perfect. It's what I used for years til they changed it. But if it is even a LITTLE loose, you might want to experiment with some heavier oils. Lately I been trying Brian's Slide Glide BECAUSE it comes in three different viscosities. My 1911s have been even better with the "Light" Slide Glide, while my CZ and Berettas tend to like the "Medium" better.


But you are going to have to find what works best in YOUR guns. All the more reason to go shooting more often.

Edited by Dranoel
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1 hour ago, Powder Finger said:

Wow I didn’t think anyone remembered the Chevy citation

 

I only remember it because I bought one new and it was trouble from day one. That car was the reason we now have "Lemon Laws".

 

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