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Are all lubricants created equal?


Heatstroke18

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I’ve gotten to the point we’re im almost out of the oil I have been using, and noticed that when my glasses have specs of oil on them after a match, the gun runs flawlessly. If my glasses are dry, I tent to have issues.  Keep calm and lube on!

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30 minutes ago, Heatstroke18 said:

I’ve gotten to the point we’re im almost out of the oil I have been using, and noticed that when my glasses have specs of oil on them after a match, the gun runs flawlessly. If my glasses are dry, I tent to have issues.  Keep calm and lube on!

Yep, that ^ !!!  If you put too much oil in, the problem will resolve itself after the first shot, and henceforth the gun will have the perfect amount of lube.

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I’ll throw my vote in for slide glide. I don’t have to re apply between cleanings and it doesn’t get my shooting glasses dirty. We use so little lubricant in a firearm that for $10 you get a multi year supply no matter what you use. Buy a few different lubricants and see what you like

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The faint line on the end of the barrel is the only wear after several thousand rounds of using Lucas extream duty grease. Don’t know if this is real good results or not but I fell like it’s working real well. After cleaning I put a little over a match head size of grease on the end of the barrel and evenly distribute it.

07696544-1C16-47A1-A02E-53E11DBFCDB7.jpeg

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18 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:

I use Slick 50, the smith that installed the barrel recommended it, still running great. With that said, anyone using Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil

I alternate between Lucas’ regular and extreme versions, actually preferring the regular stuff for most gun applications and extreme everywhere else.  I’ve found the extreme to be slightly too thick if you’ve got parts that are very tightly fit, like in my hand built 1911.  At the end of the maych, I find that gun runs smoother by the end of the match if using the red stuff. On the other hand my AR is more sloppy, and so I don’t have a problem with Extreme in that one but still usually grab  the red.  

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I have recently switched to the Lucas Extreme line of products. Seems to do the job just like almost every other lubricant I have used. I like buying products from companies that support the shooting sports. 

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12 minutes ago, lacivilian said:

I have recently ran into a problem in sub 45 degree temperatures with Lucas Extreme Duty in my Atlas Open gun. I would not suggest it to anyone in colder weather than this in a tight fitting 1911/2011.

I'm glad you posted this. I have an Atlas Chaos on order. I'll make sure to use I thinner oil when the temperature drops. Though down here in the deep south that is not usually a concern. Thanks for the heads up. 

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On 1/8/2019 at 12:41 PM, echotango said:

I felt that the lucas extreme slowed the slide down too much even in warm temps.  Also tried wilson combat and it was way too thick.  Still using Mobil1 and sticking with it. 

 

Wilson Combat's oil comes in three different viscosities for different temperature ranges...  You must have used the thickest...  It also comes in standard and Lite Oil versions...  I use their thickest oil most of the year here in Florida, but use the Lite Oil on .22 rimfire Steel Challenge guns...

 

It contains "The slickest substance known to man"...  How could you not use that...  🙂

 

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This is off of  Wilson's web site.  Look at the last line.

 

General Recommendations on Lubricating Firearms:
 

  • ALWAYS wear safety glasses when disassembling or reassembling any firearm!
  • Do NOT over lube!!!
  • Once your firearm is broken in, lube only those areas where you see visible wear, lubricating areas that don't have contact will only attract debris and fouling.
  • After lubrication and re-assembly, cycle the firearm several times and wipe off any excess lubricant that may seep out. If you have lubed properly this should be minimal.
  • For firearms that will be used at constant temperatures below 10° F, we recommend you use a very light coat of a very thin lubricant like Break Free CLP or FP-10.

Cut out the middleman and use BreakFree CLP or FP-10.

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1 hour ago, RaylanGivens said:

 

Wilson Combat's oil comes in three different viscosities for different temperature ranges...  You must have used the thickest...  It also comes in standard and Lite Oil versions...  I use their thickest oil most of the year here in Florida, but use the Lite Oil on .22 rimfire Steel Challenge guns...

 

It contains "The slickest substance known to man"...  How could you not use that...  🙂

 

It was the Universal.  It may be slick, but it was slow.  I am happy with M1 and done trying other oils.  The lucas extreme is not bad in the summer when it is 117'. 

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On 1/9/2019 at 2:36 PM, RePete said:

This is off of  Wilson's web site.  Look at the last line.

 

General Recommendations on Lubricating Firearms:
 

  • ALWAYS wear safety glasses when disassembling or reassembling any firearm!
  • Do NOT over lube!!!
  • Once your firearm is broken in, lube only those areas where you see visible wear, lubricating areas that don't have contact will only attract debris and fouling.
  • After lubrication and re-assembly, cycle the firearm several times and wipe off any excess lubricant that may seep out. If you have lubed properly this should be minimal.
  • For firearms that will be used at constant temperatures below 10° F, we recommend you use a very light coat of a very thin lubricant like Break Free CLP or FP-10.

Cut out the middleman and use BreakFree CLP or FP-10.

 

Well that will be never...  It makes headlines when the temperature drops below the 60's down here... 

 

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On 1/9/2019 at 12:36 PM, RePete said:

This is off of  Wilson's web site.  Look at the last line.

 

General Recommendations on Lubricating Firearms:
 

  • ALWAYS wear safety glasses when disassembling or reassembling any firearm!
  • Do NOT over lube!!!
  • Once your firearm is broken in, lube only those areas where you see visible wear, lubricating areas that don't have contact will only attract debris and fouling.
  • After lubrication and re-assembly, cycle the firearm several times and wipe off any excess lubricant that may seep out. If you have lubed properly this should be minimal.
  • For firearms that will be used at constant temperatures below 10° F, we recommend you use a very light coat of a very thin lubricant like Break Free CLP or FP-10.

Cut out the middleman and use BreakFree CLP or FP-10.

 

at 10 F, count me out for any uspsa matches.

 

My advice to the OP.... it makes no difference what you use in a glock or m&p or all the CZ's I have owned.

 

OTOH, it may make a difference in a tightly fit 1911 or 2011 that has much more rail contact and much less space between parts.

 

I personally use a 50-50 mix of mobil 1 and synthetic atf because i have it laying around. If i were buying lube, I would probably buy Lucas because their 2-stroke oil is the bomb diggety shiznit in my ktm dirtbikes. 200 hrs of hard use between top ends, and zero build-up on powervalves. that tells me they have some smart lube science guys there.

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On ‎1‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 3:35 PM, motosapiens said:

I personally use a 50-50 mix of mobil 1 and synthetic atf because i have it laying around. If i were buying lube, I would probably buy Lucas because their 2-stroke oil is the bomb diggety shiznit in my ktm dirtbikes. 200 hrs of hard use between top ends, and zero build-up on powervalves. that tells me they have some smart lube science guys there.

 

LOL!  You are already buying their gun oil.  The Extreme Duty is the Snowmobile oil and the Original is the 2-stroke oil.

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I drain the oil bottles after vehicle oil changes.  Been using that oil for years.  Tried Slide Glide on a whim purchase, haven't looked back.   Now my local indoor range uses Slide Glide exclusively on customer's guns.  Little goes a long way.

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