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skyjumper

TSO

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Hi Guys

I went to the range yesterday to shoot my TSO which I got this summer it is used and I also got shoulder surgery so 4 months later I get to see how this gun shoots with my reloads. I would load 5 mags loaded them with 5 or 10 rounds to see if it made any difference sometimes it would shoot all 5 or 10 round or it would shoot 4 or 7 then when I pulled the trigger and it would not fire and a few times it fired after holding it for a few seconds. As this happened more I would eject the round that would not fire and keep shooting unless the mag was empty. This would also happen with factory loads. 

Why is this happening any ideas? (I did send it in for repair and was told it worked fine?)

Thanks

 

 

 

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It sounds like the trigger is not resetting. Back off the pre travel screw half to a full turn.

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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OP: if the hammer drops when the trigger is pulled and the round doesn't fire, I would look towards the primer seating depth and hammer spring as being the likely suspects.

 

If the hammer isn't dropping, suggest you evaluate the pre-travel screw and previously noted.

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I would make sure your ammo plunk tests fine as well.  If the round is slightly too long it could be barely out of battery and feel like an inconsistent trigger which sounds like what you're describing.

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I would guess your overtravel screw is moving. Back it out and try again

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... and a few times it fired after holding it for a few seconds.
 


Can you amplify this a bit, please?

Are you saying you pull the trigger, the hammer falls, and a few seconds later the gun fires?

If not, probably adjust the trigger as already mentioned to eliminate that first.

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Hi, guys

Mr. Brewer, what would happen I would load up with ten rounds shoot maybe 6rds. & when I pulled the trigger for rd.7 the hammer would not fall.

I would keep pressure on the trigger and the hammer would not fall, eject the round fire the rest if any reload the eject and it fired. The other thing that was happening was I would pull the trigger the hammer would not fall I would release the trigger reapply pressure and the hammer might fall or it might not fall ?

Thanks Ron

 

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15 minutes ago, skyjumper said:

Hi, guys

Mr. Brewer, what would happen I would load up with ten rounds shoot maybe 6rds. & when I pulled the trigger for rd.7 the hammer would not fall.

I would keep pressure on the trigger and the hammer would not fall, eject the round fire the rest if any reload the eject and it fired. The other thing that was happening was I would pull the trigger the hammer would not fall I would release the trigger reapply pressure and the hammer might fall or it might not fall ?

Thanks Ron

 

Adjust your over travel screw and make sure you put loctite on it if you have the aluminum trigger.

 

Your overtravel screw is not statitionary like it’s supposed to that’s why the hammer falls inconsistently. It gets jarred or moved when you rack the slide enabling the hammer to fall.

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It's definitely your travel screws. Do you feel the trigger reset? If not it's your pretravel. If you do then it's your overtravel.

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Too little over travel  (lots of threads showing behind trigger) and your hammer won't fall.  Back out the screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and loctight.

 

Too little pre-travel and your trigger will not reset.  I.e. 'click' when you let off the trigger after firing

 

@skyjumper if you're having intermittent failure of the hammer to fall when the trigger is pulled (assuming the trigger reset) then you need to back out the over travel screw a tad.

TS_Trigger.jpg.3a185998182e5f44efd5d2c8ec7a820c.jpg

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I Guys,

Thanks for your help, I went to youtube and watch CM TS Trigger Tuning I did what the guy did for adjusting the over travel screw that seems to be working. So when doing the pre - travel adjustment do I just pull the trigger back and push the trigger bar down and when I let go the trigger should click? I did this and it clicked  but when I put the slide back on and racked the gun pulled the trigger the hammer fell let the trigger back out I was not getting the click?

Ron

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You'll know if the reset is working if you're able to drop the hammer after a reset. 

 

Try this:

  • Rack the slide, pull the trigger and hold the trigger in the rearward position
  • Rack the slide again while still pinning the trigger to the rear
  • Release the trigger (reset) and try to pull the trigger again
  • If the hammer falls the trigger is resetting, if not you need to adjust, rinse and repeat.

Good luck!  It isn't easy, but it is fun and educational :)

 

Edited to add that you can do the above with the slide off (which you'll need to remove to get to the reset screw) however you'll need to use a punch/pin to manually move the trigger bar back and down.  Once you think you've got it adjusted right, you'll want to perform a full function test with the slide installed, as skyjumper found out.

Edited by muncie21

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You'll know if the reset is working if you're able to drop the hammer after a reset. 
 
Try this:
  • Rack the slide, pull the trigger and hold the trigger in the rearward position
  • Rack the slide again while still pinning the trigger to the rear
  • Release the trigger (reset) and try to pull the trigger again
  • If the hammer falls the trigger is resetting, if not you need to adjust, rinse and repeat.
Good luck!  It isn't easy, but it is fun and educational :)
Thanks for this procedure; I like it.

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Hey Muncie 21

Thanks again for the tip, Question the reset seems light compared to a glock is this the way it is suppose to be? Hope to get to the range Friday and try it out.

Ron

 

 

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Yes, the single-action trigger reset on a CZ or Tanfo - particularly with lightened springs - will be very subtle.

 

However you’ll also notice the trigger resets at the same time it stops moving forward. Once you get used to not having the click to work with, and learn to work with the trigger simply finishing its forward movement, it’ll be just as easy as the Glock was to work fast.

 

I’m also a huge fan of finding the point where your overtravel and pretravel screws give you just enough movement to drop the hammer on the bench at home... then loctiting both, and backing them out 3/4 turn to give things a bit of play.

 

It’ll feel crappy on the bench, but you will NOT notice the difference when firing live ammo. Except for the part where your gun runs 100% on a hot day, a cold, day, in the pouring rain, while it’s filthy.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Anything else that could cause this delayed ignition/dead trigger situation? Very hard to test as it only seems to happen during comp conditions and never during relaxed plinking sessions. (Sear issues,trigger return spring tension or lack of,follower interference,) just brain storming. I’ve adjusted both pre and over travel utilizing all methods suggested here and wherever else I could find and hopefully I won’t have anymore wasted match fees

 

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Anything else that could cause this delayed ignition/dead trigger situation?
 


My extended/wider aftermarket safety lever was causing me some "delayed" firing. Did some minor fitting on it and finally changed it out which cured the problem.

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On 12/23/2018 at 8:39 PM, stuey93 said:

Anything else that could cause this delayed ignition/dead trigger situation?

@stuey93 the two conditions you mention (delayed ignition and dead trigger) are very different and have different potential causes.

 

Delayed ignition, or hang fire is when the hammer drops on a live round, however the round doesn't fire immediately and fires after a short delay.  This is often ammo specific and if this is your issue, I'd start by testing different ammunition in this pistol.

 

Dead trigger, as I am interpreting your comment, it is pulling the trigger and the hammer doesn't drop.  If this is the case, it's likely not ammo related (unless a cartridge is too long and prevents the slide from going into battery) and I'd start the investigation by closely looking at the mechanics of your pistol.

 

If the malfunction is happening intermittently, it's going to be tough to isolate, however removing each potential variable, one at a time will get you there eventually.  Good Luck!

Edited by muncie21

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[mention=67000]stuey93[/mention] the two conditions you mention (delayed ignition and dead trigger) are very different and have different potential causes.
 
Delayed ignition, or hang fire is when the hammer drops on a live round, however the round doesn't fire immediately and fires after a short delay.  This is often ammo specific and if this is your issue, I'd start by testing different ammunition in this pistol.
 
Dead trigger, as I am interpreting your comment, it is pulling the trigger and the hammer doesn't drop.  If this is the case, it's likely not ammo related (unless a cartridge is too long and prevents the slide from going into battery) and I'd start the investigation by closely looking at the mechanics of your pistol.
 
If the malfunction is happening intermittently, it's going to be tough to isolate, however removing each potential variable, one at a time will get you there eventually.  Good Luck!

Thanks

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So I’m looking at getting a TSO, upgrading from the Glock 35 I currently shoot. From what I’ve gathered, the travel screws don’t stay put well.  Is this because they are adjusted to the limit? Or is this this something I’m going to have to watch

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So I’m looking at getting a TSO, upgrading from the Glock 35 I currently shoot. From what I’ve gathered, the travel screws don’t stay put well.  Is this because they are adjusted to the limit? Or is this this something I’m going to have to watch

 

With a polymer trigger, its two adjustment screws stay put. In an upgraded aluminum trigger, the screws need a little Loctite.

 

Now, new TSOs come with an aluminum trigger... long way of saying, Yes, keep an eye on em; not because they are adjusted to a limit, just because they can move over time.

 

 

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Thanks. That’s good to know. Is there anything else I should look out for? This gun being newer I only know one guy at the local match that shoots one. Plenty of 2011’s, I just don’t want to get into having my equiptment perfectly “tuned” to just run

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TSOs have been on the market for several years.  The newer (late 2018) models are the ones that RAB is cautioning about keeping an eye/loctite the trigger screws.

 

TS/TSO are well recognized for being competition ready to shoot out of the box.  No tweaking required on the mechanicals of the gun to make it run.  Most shooters change of small components for personal preference.

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