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2011/1911 arched or wedge profile mainspring housings


vgdvc

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For any of you out there, including myself, who don't fancy having the flat mainspring housing on a standard 2011 STI plastic grip or 1911 frame do you prefer an arched or wedged  profile and why?

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I have the Dawson which profile on my STI plastic grip that has been slightly reduced. I have arched on all my other 1911 frames. Still trying to decide which of the two I like best. Interesting the revamped Army 1911A1 decided on an arched mainspring housing and original short trigger as it fit the average hand best and had the best results with experienced  and newly trained soldiers.

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I was just able to get my arched Dawson msh into my STI plastic grip and absolutely find it easier to acquire my sights. I had a flat msh on a 1911 that I sold, and found the flat just didn't work with what my hands wanted to do, and I was too stubborn to practice with it till it worked.  

  

As much as I like the arched I may eventually get a wedge to see if it feels any better, but right now I at least know I prefer arch to flat.  

  

It's always gonna come down to preference as usual. What works for one may not for others. 

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the different mainspring housings are meant to fine tune the gun so your natural point of aim and the actual bore line up. A thicker mainspring housing will tilt  the bore up. Flush will bring it down.
Nothing to do,,, or at least shouldnt be about preference. Its a physical adjustment of the gun.
Stand square and focus on a small target, close your eyes. Present the gun at the target, open your eyes. Where are the sights in relationship to the target ?
For STI's, Caspian, and Para's , Flush MSH seemed to be closer. For SS Arch works better for me.

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I went with a Dawson arched mainspring housing on my STI. I don't know if the housing was out of spec (Dawson claims this isn't possible) or the grip was out of spec, but I had to remove a fair amount of material to fit the mainspring housing. I definitely prefer arched to a flat housing, but other than handling a few 1911s with a wedge I have no experience with wedges. 

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On 12/6/2018 at 2:21 PM, Joe4d said:

the different mainspring housings are meant to fine tune the gun so your natural point of aim and the actual bore line up. A thicker mainspring housing will tilt  the bore up. Flush will bring it down.
Nothing to do,,, or at least shouldnt be about preference. Its a physical adjustment of the gun.
Stand square and focus on a small target, close your eyes. Present the gun at the target, open your eyes. Where are the sights in relationship to the target ?
For STI's, Caspian, and Para's , Flush MSH seemed to be closer. For SS Arch works better for me.

Very interesting. I have an STI with plastic grip and flush MSH. It points low every time. I will try something thicker. 

 

Thanks!

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10 hours ago, Posvar said:

Very interesting. I have an STI with plastic grip and flush MSH. It points low every time. I will try something thicker. 

 

Thanks!

Arched will help with that.

Ultimately dryfire and familiarity with the gun will help the most 

Arched also help me to not push the shots low under speed/match conditions.

As stated above it is also a great help for many of us with grip fitment 

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On 12/6/2018 at 1:21 PM, Joe4d said:

the different mainspring housings are meant to fine tune the gun so your natural point of aim and the actual bore line up. A thicker mainspring housing will tilt  the bore up. Flush will bring it down.
Nothing to do,,, or at least shouldnt be about preference. Its a physical adjustment of the gun.
Stand square and focus on a small target, close your eyes. Present the gun at the target, open your eyes. Where are the sights in relationship to the target ?
For STI's, Caspian, and Para's , Flush MSH seemed to be closer. For SS Arch works better for me.

The Wedge is closer to the Arched, maybe even halfway between probably depends on manufacturer.  I had a wedge on my 1911 and it worked good.  Back to Flat now though, really don't know why either?

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Hello: A wedge or curved mainspring housing will make your wrist angle different than using a flat mainspring housing. Think, more of a Glock angle which is more like true target pistols. It locks your wrist up a little more so some may not like that feeling. The only way is to try one to see what you like the best. Of the two I like the curved more than the wedge but like the flat the best. Thanks, Eric

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On 12/6/2018 at 2:21 PM, Joe4d said:

the different mainspring housings are meant to fine tune the gun so your natural point of aim and the actual bore line up. A thicker mainspring housing will tilt  the bore up. Flush will bring it down.
Nothing to do,,, or at least shouldnt be about preference. Its a physical adjustment of the gun.
Stand square and focus on a small target, close your eyes. Present the gun at the target, open your eyes. Where are the sights in relationship to the target ?
 

 

I have been shooting the ARCHED since 1982 for exactly the reasons noted by Joe4d. Its just a good tweak to get your sights on target sooner. 

 

The flat housing was the sweetheart oh so many years ago and I see that has been the status quo but ask yourself why do YOU have one. Did it come on the gun? Does your favorie shooter have one on their gun? Then perhaps you didnt know you could tweak your sights by using a different MS housing.

 

The more I read these forims the more I find that a LOT of what we used to do in the infancy of this sport is lost on the masses but none the less it is what will help YOU shave tme and produce more Alphas.

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8 hours ago, rowdyb said:

I like arched, but on the guns I had with a functioning grip safety It made it easier for my handsize to not fully depress it, leading to me readjusting my grip on the clock to get a "live" gun.

This has happened to me with an arched on my 1911 but not with wedged on my 2011. Not sure if it has to also do something with the grip design/diameter but if I put an arched on my 2011 I might consider disengaging the grip safety. BTW any recommendations on how to do that process?

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3 hours ago, vgdvc said:

This has happened to me with an arched on my 1911 but not with wedged on my 2011. Not sure if it has to also do something with the grip design/diameter but if I put an arched on my 2011 I might consider disengaging the grip safety. BTW any recommendations on how to do that process?

Simple method; electrical tape 

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