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Rimfire rifle "compensators"


slowhands

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Is anyone running some sort of compensator on a rimfire rifle to make it easier for the timer to pick it up? All I want is a little more volume with no loss of accuracy/reliability. (Plus some bonus tacticool appeal, of course.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

In Rimfire Challenge it's pretty much mandatory to have a comp even on iron sight rifles because some brands and models of timers have problems with rimfires in general. Currently in SC it's not required in Rimfire open or allowed on Rimfire irons but it might be later. Comps on rifles won't do anything for muzzle rise it's just for the timers. I have used several over the years and they all help.

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12 hours ago, photoracer said:

In Rimfire Challenge it's pretty much mandatory to have a comp even on iron sight rifles because some brands and models of timers have problems with rimfires in general. Currently in SC it's not required in Rimfire open or allowed on Rimfire irons but it might be later. Comps on rifles won't do anything for muzzle rise it's just for the timers. I have used several over the years and they all help.

FYI    Actually on page 68 0f the May 2018 printed rules copy for Steel Challenge..... the appendix for rimfire rifle and pistol notes that comps are allowed in iron and optic classes and in the case of rifle I highly recommend them or a side port muzzle brake model such as Allchin... especially if you shoot a standard velocity ammo... BTW the longer the barrel the greater the need for them to deflect some sound back to the timer one of the stages where times are missed the most is Speed Option for right handed shooters and 5 to go for lefties 

Edited by xpierrat
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On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 2:11 PM, jkrispies said:

Any short of a linear comp will work to help the timer.  I use a Pace Setting Design comp which I find to be easier to keep clean than the Allchin, and it looks cooler, IMHO.  

 

I've got a Pace Setting comp on one rifle and Allchin's on several others.  The PSD comp does stay cleaner, but the Allchin is pretty easy to clean.  If I've let it get to the "Lead Volcano" stage, I use a 9/16" end cutting Rotary Burr (about $10 for a Chinesium 'carbide' bit on Ebay) in a variable speed hand drill at a very slow speed to knock down the cone of lead.  Then I use a 9/16" 4 flute end mill with 1/2" shank (again $10 or less one ebay) in a hand chuck to scrape the remaining lead off the comp.  It takes longer to explain than to do it.

 

For the PSD comp, I just ground the end of a piece of (IIRC) 7/32" square machine key stock (about $2 at McMaster-Carr) at an angle to form a chisel tip.  I just slide the 'chisel' into the side port of the comp and tap the 'chisel' to knock out the lead.

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I run one of John Allchin's comps and they work great for the issue you are posting about. I mounted it with the ports pointed to the sides of the barrel. One important thing to remember is to remove your comp now and then and clean the muzzle crown. When we had the 22 ammo shortage I ran a lot of non-plated lead ammo and the crown got enough build up on it to deflect a bullet. The exit hole on my comp now looks like a figure eight.

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On ‎12‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 11:50 AM, Ming the Merciless said:

 

I've got a Pace Setting comp on one rifle and Allchin's on several others.  The PSD comp does stay cleaner, but the Allchin is pretty easy to clean.  If I've let it get to the "Lead Volcano" stage, I use a 9/16" end cutting Rotary Burr (about $10 for a Chinesium 'carbide' bit on Ebay) in a variable speed hand drill at a very slow speed to knock down the cone of lead.  Then I use a 9/16" 4 flute end mill with 1/2" shank (again $10 or less one ebay) in a hand chuck to scrape the remaining lead off the comp.  It takes longer to explain than to do it.

 

For the PSD comp, I just ground the end of a piece of (IIRC) 7/32" square machine key stock (about $2 at McMaster-Carr) at an angle to form a chisel tip.  I just slide the 'chisel' into the side port of the comp and tap the 'chisel' to knock out the lead.

 

  DOH!  The Rotary Burr is a 1/2" in diameter, my typing was half a sentence behind and I had already moved on to the end mill diameter mentally.

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Strike Industries makes two comps that work on 22 LR pistols and rifles.

I went with them because of their hard finish.  With a little lanolin oil on them when they're clean, the lead "falls" out with the help of a small, flat screw driver.

 

https://www.strikeindustries.com/shop/products/ar/muzzle-device/sail-comp-for-223-5-56.html 

https://www.strikeindustries.com/shop/products/ar/muzzle-device/warhog-comp.html

 

I use the Warthog on a Ruger 22/45 shooting CCI SV, and haven't had a timer miss a shot since installing it (and it only cost $20).

 

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I have a TandemKross "Game Changer" compensator on my 10/22.  I have a 16" threaded "sporter barrel" so the comp is a bit bigger in diameter than the muzzle  and I had to use a crush washer instead of the supplied O-ring  to clock it properly.  It works fine for the purpose of making the rifle louder and wasn't terribly expensive.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I've found the Game Changer Pro is louder than the original Game Changer and doesn't seem to get as leaded up as the original.
^^^this. I've switched all my rimfire comps to the GC Pro. The steel does not lead up like the aluminum

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/21/2019 at 7:26 PM, bigdawgbeav said:

^^^this. I've switched all my rimfire comps to the GC Pro. The steel does not lead up like the aluminum

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Yep it's a big improvement.

Edited by funflyr
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