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Polymer

Hammer catching / interruptor hitting trigger bar in single action

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I wanted to get insight and opinions on what is happening and what you guys do for this situation.  FYI, overtravel screw is removed, there is plenty of overtravel in DA and SA.  I'm using factory single wing interruptor. 

 

In SA, occasionally when trigger is deliberately pulled very very slowly, hammer only drops a few millimeters and stops.  Sear is not hitting the half cock hammer hooks; the hammer stops way before that.  Appears like interruptor is hitting trigger bar and not letting hammer go fully forward. 

Edited by Polymer

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Factory hammer, interruptor, trigger bar, sear?

 

Hmmm,  in SA the "wing" should clear the trigger bar. If it is NOT, then the timing of the action is whacko.

 

The timing is modulated by the "leg" that goes down on the  left side.  Removing a few thousanths may be benefitial.  That's a tricky adjustment, best done by an experienced smith. 

 

You could also bevel the edge of the wing so it won't catch.  Again, a tricky adjustment.

 

Of course, without seeing and fiddling,  I'm just guessing.

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17 minutes ago, johnbu said:

Removing a few thousanths may be beneficial.  That's a tricky adjustment, best done with a dremel tool.

 

Hold my beer. I’ve got this.

 

Oh, you may want to order a spare disconnector. Just in case.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Polymer, I think you need to file a bit of the corner of the wing..  the forward-bottom corner (with the nose facing down forward facing muzzle.)

My CZ SP-01 had an issue where it would "catch" the hammer when doing a slow SA pull, then as you released (eased out) the trigger it would act much like a decocker.

 

See REPLY #14

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=71069.0

 

Cajun Gunworks made the suggestion to me (but keep in mind it is for a CZ) so take it with a grain of salt.

 

I can't find the thread but I believe that there was a big flame war over how to "properly" relieve this issue here?  CGW's quick 5 minute tweak worked for me...

 

Edited by Sniperboy

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2 hours ago, johnbu said:

Factory hammer, interruptor, trigger bar, sear?

 

Hmmm,  in SA the "wing" should clear the trigger bar. If it is NOT, then the timing of the action is whacko.

 

The timing is modulated by the "leg" that goes down on the  left side.  Removing a few thousanths may be benefitial.  That's a tricky adjustment, best done by an experienced smith. 

 

You could also bevel the edge of the wing so it won't catch.  Again, a tricky adjustment.

 

Of course, without seeing and fiddling,  I'm just guessing.

Yep, factory hammer, interruptor, trigger bar.  One piece sear.

I figured those were the issues.  Didn't want to start hacking at stuff to the extreme. 

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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Hold my beer. I’ve got this.

 

Oh, you may want to order a spare disconnector. Just in case.

 

Oh I got several interruptors alright haha.  All of them have the same issue, the one currently in gun now only does it very occasionally.

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1 hour ago, Sniperboy said:

Polymer, I think you need to file a bit of the corner of the wing..  the forward-bottom corner (with the nose facing down forward facing muzzle.)

My CZ SP-01 had an issue where it would "catch" the hammer when doing a slow SA pull, then as you released the hammer it would act much like a decocker.

 

See REPLY #14

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=71069.0

 

Cajun Gunworks made the suggestion to me (but keep in mind it is for a CZ) so take it with a grain of salt.

 

I can't find the thread but I believe that there was a big flame war over how to "properly" relieve this issue here?  CGW's quick 5 minute tweak worked for me...

 

I figured that was it.  Couple others mentioned it.  I didn't want the DA/hammer to drop too soon if I filed that down.  Will check it out.  

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Just give it a slight touch and go slow.  I do not think you have to take off that much material (but I can see what you mean about dropping the DA too early).

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i had the same problem talked to tanfoglio directly . Christian bonomi whos is in charge of team tanfoglio  replied with a small modifiaction to the factory interruptor i will attach everything here so everyone can find it useful hope it helps

setup disconnector.pdf

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3 hours ago, fellas said:

i had the same problem talked to tanfoglio directly . Christian bonomi whos is in charge of team tanfoglio  replied with a small modifiaction to the factory interruptor i will attach everything here so everyone can find it useful hope it helps

setup disconnector.pdf

Compressing interuptor to increase height/length?

Edited by Polymer

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@MemphisMechanic and @johnbu 

 

I have finally figured out my issue I believe with all my problems. I installed the tanfo eay LONG sear in my stock 3 and problems seem to go away. 5.5 lb. DA and 1.5 lb SA and has been setting of my Winchester primers no problem now. Also the extended firing pin block functions as it is supposed to. All other parts in my original thread (topic) are the same. Only difference is I got rid of the extreme sear and put the factory "long" sear in. 

 

thank you all for your help. I hope this continues to work with no issues. So far 500 plus rounds without issues. 

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it was a timing issue..... Basically by lengthening the interrupter in the attached document referenced above he caused more clearance between the wing and the trigger bar. That's the first ive seen of that method.... interesting to say the least. 

 

By installing the longer sear you've basically done the same thing by causing the trigger bar to move further down while the sear lifts out of the hammer hooks. I would inspect the ramp that the interrupter travels on in your frame for wear, especially if all your interrupters have this same problem. 

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