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2011 trigger reset help


EddieCrispo

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On the trigger bow you should see a couple of small tabs that you can bend forward... With the top-end off you'll be able to get in there too small screwdriver and push them forward. This will shorten your trigger pull and shorten your reset. I can give you a better explanation when I get home and can provide you a picture of what I am talking about.

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The tabs on the front of the bow control how much pre-travel the trigger has.  This does nothing for the amount of reset.  Yes, the trigger pull will be longer with more pre-travel, but the trigger will reset and become "live" at the same point irrespective of how much pre-travel there is.

 

The over travel screw is what controls how much reset there is.  If you have more over travel, you will have a longer reset.  Shorten over travel, and your reset distance is shorter.

 

ETA-Don't go crazy with the overtravel screw though.  Unless you want to ruin your hammer hooks.

Edited by d_striker
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Eddie, let's get the terminology straight.  Reset is the distance the trigger must move forward to allow the disconnector to click up enabling you to pull the trigger again.  You can feel this point.  with an empty pistol, rack the slide and pull the trigger.  Then while holding the trigger back, rack the slide again.  Now slowly release the trigger.  After a bit you will hear a click.  That is the reset.  Any additional distance the trigger moves forward is pretravel. 

 

The pretravel adjustment tabs on the front of the trigger bow only adjust pretravel.  You have to have some or the half cock notch won't work and the gun will be unsafe. 

 

Overtravel adjustments only adjust the distance the trigger moves to the rear AFTER the gun fires.  Again, you have to have some.  If you have too much, it increases the distance the trigger must move forward to reset.

 

Here is an article I found helpful when I was starting out.  http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm

Edited by zzt
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Eddie, let's get the terminology straight.  Reset is the distance the trigger must move forward to allow the disconnector to click up enabling you to pull the trigger again.  You can feel this point.  with an empty pistol, rack the slide and pull the trigger.  Then while holding the trigger back, rack the slide again.  Now slowly release the trigger.  After a bit you will hear a click.  That is the reset.  Any additional distance the trigger moves forward is pretravel. 
 
The pretravel adjustment tabs on the front of the trigger bow only adjust pretravel.  You have to have some or the half cock notch won't work and the gun will be unsafe. 
 
Overtravel adjustments only adjust the distance the trigger moves to the rear AFTER the gun fires.  Again, you have to have some.  If you have too much, it increases the distance the trigger must move forward to reset.
 
Here is an article I found helpful when I was starting out.  http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm
I know what pretravel is. I know what overtravel is. I know what reset is. I know how to check the reset. My question that nobody seems to be able to answer is once again is......How do I get better RESET?! Everyone is in this thread talking about pretravel and overtravel. I already know that you test reset it by holding the trigger, racking the slide, and then letting it go to feel the RESET. What I want to know is how to shorten the amount of RESET that I am feeling?!?

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I know what pretravel is. I know what overtravel is. I know what reset is. I know how to check the reset. My question that nobody seems to be able to answer is once again is......How do I get better RESET?! Everyone is in this thread talking about pretravel and overtravel. I already know that you test reset it by holding the trigger, racking the slide, and then letting it go to feel the RESET. What I want to know is how to shorten the amount of RESET that I am feeling.

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Screw in the trigger adjusts over travel. Tab at the front of the trigger bow adjusts pretravel. 
 
I'm guessing you probably are feeling excess over travel. 
No. My pretravel is next to none. There is zero overtravel. I am talking about the RESET

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The tabs on the front of the bow control how much pre-travel the trigger has.  This does nothing for the amount of reset.  Yes, the trigger pull will be longer with more pre-travel, but the trigger will reset and become "live" at the same point irrespective of how much pre-travel there is.
 
The over travel screw is what controls how much reset there is.  If you have more over travel, you will have a longer reset.  Shorten over travel, and your reset distance is shorter.
 
ETA-Don't go crazy with the overtravel screw though.  Unless you want to ruin your hammer hooks.
There is literally no overtravel after the trigger break. Same with overtravel. Both of those are very good. I'm looking to shorten the reset. The screw does nothing but adjust overtravel.

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Eddie, you don't understand.  The actual point where the trigger resets is baked in by the geometry of the components used.  You cannot change it unless you change the geometry.  As an example, my main Open gun had all SVI internals and ambi thumb safety.  The thumb safety failed a safety test at a chrono station.  They pulled a lot harder than I ever did.  It turned out to be a worn arm on the TS.  So I replaced it.  While I was at it I replaced everything else.  I used all EGW parts, because they are good, and I had them in stock.  After fitting and safety testing I discovered the reset was a tiny bit longer than previously.  It was enough to mess with my muscle memory.  For the next two matches I occasionally did not let the trigger out far enough to reset before pulling again.

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8 hours ago, EddieCrispo said:

There is literally no overtravel after the trigger break. Same with overtravel. Both of those are very good. I'm looking to shorten the reset. The screw does nothing but adjust overtravel.

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If its the actual reset movement that is the problem then you have to get into changing the geometry of the sear and hammer interface. you would need to shorten your hammer hooks and play with the sear nose geometry, you would likely need to also look into clearance between the sear and the half cock notch on the hammer to keep that from hitting. All the above should only be undertaken by a very competent smith that really knows what each piece is doing and how small changes will affect everything else.

 

Without handling your particular pistol I would be surprised if the reset distance on a 1911, with any kind of performance trigger group parts, could be long enough to be a issue.

 

You may also be surprised to find that many of the top guys have their triggers set up with quite a bit of pre and a fair bit of over travel.

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If its the actual reset movement that is the problem then you have to get into changing the geometry of the sear and hammer interface. you would need to shorten your hammer hooks and play with the sear nose geometry, you would likely need to also look into clearance between the sear and the half cock notch on the hammer to keep that from hitting. All the above should only be undertaken by a very competent smith that really knows what each piece is doing and how small changes will affect everything else.
 
Without handling your particular pistol I would be surprised if the reset distance on a 1911, with any kind of performance trigger group parts, could be long enough to be a issue.
 
You may also be surprised to find that many of the top guys have their triggers set up with quite a bit of pre and a fair bit of over travel.
Awesome. Thanks for the reply sir. I will definitely look into that.

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