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canik vs glock for carry optics


davsco

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i've read thru some threads here but figured i'd just start another one.

 

i have a ton of glocks and like them.  not super ergonomic but they always work, and tons of aftermarket parts & accessories.

 

i have shot glock mos and milled glocks and had trouble finding the dot with both (think they were all trijicons); ditto with sig x5 & romeo.  shot a canik with a vortex viper and did way better with the dot.  maybe the vortex viper just sits lower?

 

so just mulling over getting another 17 and having the slide milled or getting a canik, x version with the plates, (and all the cost, and hassle, and i guess fun) of getting into a new platform, probably with a vortex viper.

 

input welcome, as well as must-have's with the canik.  it did have the longest trigger takeup of any gun i've fired i think, so definitely want to remove or shorten that (i don't shoot the reset).

 

on a related note, anyone know if the canik mags fit either glock or sti 2011 mag pouches?  sounds like some of the caniks fit in some of the glock holsters?

Edited by davsco
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One thing I would suggest is not milling a gun. Get a gun like the Glock mos where you can change to a different red dot down the road if you choose. You never know what amazing stuff might come out next year that you have never even heard of.
I have one Glock I milled for a Burris fastfire. I regret it as I use delta point pros now.
Always nice to not be committed forever to a dot if possible.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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yeah that's good advice on not milling.  but i do switch back and forth between dots (uspsa open guns) and irons and having the lowest dot really helps me (i had to turn my open dot sideways).  one good thing about the canik is i could stay on the dot, with the plate and not being milled.  maybe it was just the different ergo's working better for me.

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4 minutes ago, Explosiveo said:

One thing I would suggest is not milling a gun. Get a gun like the Glock mos where you can change to a different red dot down the road if you choose. You never know what amazing stuff might come out next year that you have never even heard of.
I have one Glock I milled for a Burris fastfire. I regret it as I use delta point pros now.
Always nice to not be committed forever to a dot if possible.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

I agree with this. 

 

Some say getting the dot lower is better and fits more snug.  The plate on MOS Glocks is not very tall so, to me that's not enough to be "lower". 

 

I also don't know if I believe the more snug fit has any benefit to dot longevity. 

 

I'm a believer you can get used to anything so, what ever you choose, give it a few weeks to.get used to the feel. 

 

I'm also a fan on silicon carbide grip jobs. I also removed the finger grooves on my 34. Much better for my taste!  

 

Out of the two you mention, I'd go Glock every day. The cannik are ok but I never really feel in love with them. 

 

Now, a Walther q5 is nice.  

 

You may also wait a couple of weeks. I heard someone has a new CO ready gun about to be released. 

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Ya. Everyone has trouble indexing to the dot at first. It takes a bit to become 2nd nature. So don't base your decision 100% on that.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Edit: Sorry didn't see your reply that you are experienced shooting a dot.

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I’ll counter the above. I have my walther cut so deeply the DPP is riding in the top of the firing pin channel.

 

It’s so much better than my adapter-plate Q5Match that the Q will stay irons forever.

 

Mill it, and mill it balls deep. Life is so much better when you want to go back to irons, or switch back and forth.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I’ll counter the above. I have my walther cut so deeply the DPP is riding in the top of the firing pin channel.
 
It’s so much better than my adapter-plate Q5Match that the Q will stay irons forever.
 
Mill it, and mill it balls deep. Life is so much better when you want to go back to irons, or switch back and forth.
 
If your going to mill it at least make sure you LOVE the dot your milling it for is all I'm saying.
DPP is a great choice.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@Explosiveo spending money is what this sport is all about. Not shooting. You need a DPP slide, and an RTS2 slide, and...

I've shot and have both of these optics. 

 

The both are nice. I like the DDP better. 

 

I haven't tried to go back to irons since I strated shooting a dot this August. I've had no issues with the dot being higher. The Glock MOS plate is really close. Maybe 1/8". My open gun is a lit higher. It's taken very little time and effort to get used to. Though, I don't seem to have much problem with switching guns/division. Takes me a few dry fire sessions.  

 

 

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you've heard the phrase, beware the man with one gun?  well, that's not me.  i switch back and forth a lot (all the games/divisions are fun) so want the dot as low as possible so i can spend less time practicing and finding it!

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1 hour ago, B_RAD said:

The Glock MOS plate is really close. Maybe 1/8". 

 

Yes, but not compared to a glock slide if it were cut so deeply that your optic is the cap for the exposed striker channel. ;) 

 

Gotta get balls deep, son. Ball endmill I meant, of course.

 

I had a PPQ cut instead of my Q5 because Mark at L&M precision said he could get it at least 1/8” lower without all that optic mounting plate mumbo jumbo in the way.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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ok, decided to go with the canik and the vortex viper based on my past experience with it; picked it up at the local gun show today.

 

the one thing i hate is the super long trigger take up.  please let me know what i need to buy/do/switch out to shorten the take up!!!

 

any other must have's or must do's?  thanks!

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On ‎11‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 10:06 PM, davsco said:

ok, decided to go with the canik and the vortex viper based on my past experience with it; picked it up at the local gun show today.

the one thing i hate is the super long trigger take up.  please let me know what i need to buy/do/switch out to shorten the take up!!!

any other must have's or must do's?  thanks!

Have a Canic TP9 FSx and I put the Vortex Venom on mine love it so far. You can buy a Freedom Smith trigger for the gun that will eliminate virtually all of the take up of the trigger pull. I put an Apex front face trigger on mine and if feels like a different gun with the new trigger. The reset which is already fantastic is slightly better with the Apex trigger. Other than a trigger I would not do anything else until you have put a couple hundred rounds through it to see how you like it. There is a Canik forum which has tons of good info about all model Canik's you should check it out for some ideas. I am running the original recoil spring in mine but some change them out depending on what load they are shooting. I did polish all of the internal parts though. I have close to 600 rounds through mine and so far 100% no failures to feed, fire or eject.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/16/2018 at 9:06 PM, davsco said:

ok, decided to go with the canik and the vortex viper based on my past experience with it; picked it up at the local gun show today.

 

the one thing i hate is the super long trigger take up.  please let me know what i need to buy/do/switch out to shorten the take up!!!

 

any other must have's or must do's?  thanks!

 

FreedomSmith USA trigger.

 

Then register your Canik for warranty online. Not saying you will for certain but you might have some problems with the factory RSA and 130 power factor ammo. If you do, you can call Century and they will send you a lighter RSA for free. 

 

Additional trigger suggestions:

Get a Ghost 6.5 lb striker spring for a Glock or a 28 Newton striker spring for a Glock - swap either one out for the factory striker spring (they are seriously overpowered)

 

Get a Ghost reduced power firing pin block plunger spring for a Glock (swap it out for the factory block plunger spring - it is seriously overpowered). Polish the block plunger when you replace the spring. 

 

Polish all contact surfaces on the trigger bar when you install the FreedomSmith trigger. Especially the tops of the tabs on the trigger bar and the outer surface of the rear tab (the one closest to the grip)

 

The FreedomSmith trigger gets rid of almost all of the take up but it will also cause a bit of pre-tensioning of the trigger return spring. Add a stainless number 2 split ring to the loop end of the trigger return spring and then re-install it on the trigger bar hook.

 

That should give you a sub-3lb trigger with very little take up and almost no overtravel. Once it has a bit of break-in, it will likely settle in at around 2.25-2.5lbs.

 

If you want more weight on the front end, a glock 17L tungsten guide rod for a gen 3 glock will work if you use the gen 4 adapter (keeps it centered while moving). You may need to slightly reduce the outer rim of the gen 4 adapter to get it to sit in the Canik slide properly but it doesn't take much. A 13lb Wolff Glock 17 spring should work well with this guide rod but you shouldn't try that combo without changing out the striker spring first. Caniks are cock on close. If you run a light recoil spring with the factory striker spring you will certainly have out of battery issues. 

 

If you are a little creative with a dremel, you can fit a couple ounces of tungsten under the removable backstrap...

 

Edited by Weapon
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thanks guys for all the info!  i did buy the freedomsmith racer trigger, need to install that.  will check out your other suggestions as well.  super thanks!

 

stainless number 2 split ring ===>  where do i get one of these, home depot or lowes, brownell's,?

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13 hours ago, davsco said:

thanks guys for all the info!  i did buy the freedomsmith racer trigger, need to install that.  will check out your other suggestions as well.  super thanks!

 

stainless number 2 split ring ===>  where do i get one of these, home depot or lowes, brownell's,?

 

They are used for all sorts of stuff - easiest place to find them is usually outdoor sports stores in the fishing department (they sell them in pack of 5 or 10 for a buck or two. I swiped the one I used off of a small crankbait. Someone in another thread mentioned they are often used in jewelry making so Hobby Lobby and the like carries them. The one you want is basically the same size as the loop that is on the end of the spring. A number 2 round split ring works well but you can use one of the small oval shaped ones from Academy Sports as well. Since they are oval shaped, they are slightly longer and will relieve slightly more tension. 

 

I have played around with my SFx trigger and the triggers on several other Caniks quite a bit. If you get one under 2.25lbs, you will likely have to modify the trigger blade safety spring as you will get to the point to where the trigger will be easier to pull than the blade safety is to disengage. Anything under two pounds gets too mushy.

 

With the freedomsmith trigger and the above spring swaps, anything under 2.5lbs will take some getting used to. When I hand my SFx to people at the range who are used to using conpetition pistol triggers, they usually get an accidental click when they are raising the pistol to look down the sights the first time. Then they turn and look at me and laugh. At 2.25lbs with a very short pull and soft wall, it feels like a <2lb trigger. No one expects that on a striker fired pistol. 

 

 

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I can show you a simple fix for the canik that will literally cost you 25 cents and 10 min of your time that will get rid of 99 % of take up on stock trigger!  These guns have the best reset and trigger of any striker fire pistol hands down, not to mention already come milled with plates cheaper than Glock more ergonomic, faster splits etc!  

Edited by Mlussoro
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21 minutes ago, Mlussoro said:

I can show you a simple fix for the canik that will literally cost you 25 cents and 10 min of your time that will get rid of 99 % of take up on stock trigger!  These guns have the best reset and trigger of any striker fire pistol hands down, not to mention already come milled with plates cheaper than Glock more ergonomic, faster splits etc!  

well please do, thanks!  haven't shot it much but the excessively long trigger take-up is definitely something i want changed.

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You can put a shim or set screw in the front of the trigger where it meets the frame to eliminate much of the take up. I played around with it on my SFx before ordering the FreedomSmith. 

 

For the shim method, you just rough up the flat on the front of the trigger slightly and then use a strong epoxy to glue a kydex or polymer shim to it. If you measure the take up really well, you can order the exact thickness you need. That simplifies it down to just epoxing the shim in place.

 

set screw version: 

get a short set screw from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Drill the correct size hole for a tap for whichever screw you use (6-32 works) in the trigger on the flat that meets the frame. Tap the hole to thread it. Screw in the set screw and adjust it to eliminate as much take up as you want and then Loctite it in place. 

 

Both methods work but I wanted a flat trigger set slightly farther forward so I ended up ordering the FreedomSmith trigger. 

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