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Rollsizer vs CasePro


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I have both, an automated CasePro and a Rollsizer. I ordered the Rollsizer two weeks after I had the CasePro.

 

i just got tired of drilling out the plastic shear screws, Also, I am running the Rollsizer at the pace of 4K plus,

 

the CasePro is back in the crate it came in waiting for someone that wants a greatly discounted unit and one who doesn’t mind replacing the shear screws every few thousand cases or so.

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On 11/16/2018 at 8:48 PM, JatCarver said:

Maximus, are you running the new style case feeder or the “old” style with the metal plate around about 1/4 of the top of the bowl?

 

I have one unit upgraded on the older style and one upgraded on the new style. I think the old style works better IMO. At least for 9mm and 40.

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On 11/18/2018 at 8:23 PM, tanks said:

I have both, an automated CasePro and a Rollsizer. I ordered the Rollsizer two weeks after I had the CasePro.

 

i just got tired of drilling out the plastic shear screws, Also, I am running the Rollsizer at the pace of 4K plus,

 

the CasePro is back in the crate it came in waiting for someone that wants a greatly discounted unit and one who doesn’t mind replacing the shear screws every few thousand cases or so.

 

Nylon screws are wear item, and there is no need to drill them out, just buy a bag of 100pcs for a few bucks, and change them as soon as you notice slight distortion to the head shape. 

 

In those very few cases when they lost their heads, I used diagonal cutters to unscrew the stem - comes out very easily. 

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On 11/16/2018 at 12:16 AM, Smithcity said:

I can only tell you my experience. I roll everything, process it on my 650 with a mighty armory decapping die, a dillon resizing die, and a redding re-sizing die, brass then gets wet tumbled cleaning the primer pockets. I then convert the 650 over for loading (now have an Evo Pro I'm setting up). I do not separate any of my headstamps. My target OAL is 1.13", I typically see 1.27" to 1.33".

 

Edit: meant to write 1.127" to 1.133"

So the mighty armory is universal decaper. Then Dillon an Redding? Why are u sizing twice just wondering 

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On 11/16/2018 at 12:16 AM, Smithcity said:

I can only tell you my experience. I roll everything, process it on my 650 with a mighty armory decapping die, a dillon resizing die, and a redding re-sizing die, brass then gets wet tumbled cleaning the primer pockets. I then convert the 650 over for loading (now have an Evo Pro I'm setting up). I do not separate any of my headstamps. My target OAL is 1.13", I typically see 1.27" to 1.33".

 

Edit: meant to write 1.127" to 1.133"

Are you rollsizing and processing dirty brass or are you dry tumbling first?

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In my case, using my variable speed power drive the limiting factor is not the Case pro, it is the case feeder.  And yes, it is mounted to a totally separate base, to a wall, really, but still trying to run it constantly at its high speed you get too many stoppages.   The machine itself I have comfortably ran at 3,600, but the case feeder always falls behind.    I replaced the older feeder with the brand new, current one, and it is better, but still not as reliable as I would need.

 

I don't know how the rollsizes handles the wrong brass.  A .40 case in the stream of 9mm will stop the Case pro, and a .380 case might jam it.  The upside-down cases are usually not a problem. 

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It will stop feeding if the stem isnt the correct height for the brass. This is why sorting is huge for either unit.

 

Upgrade the motors and do some tinkering with flange in the unit and a AT500 funnel from Dillon (tested with 10K of 9mm so far). The funnel fixes log jams and the flange can fixed the issue of brass that doesn't drop fast enough and hits the left side of the opening and locks up the unit (or goes under the case feed plate or just shoots out randomly).

 

 

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Thank you for the advice!  I believe the funnel you mean is the Dillon  part Stock Number: 16617, I might try it.

 

As far as the Forcht motor upgrade - I was not able to find it on their site, perhaps you would have a link?  If it is just a faster and more powerful motor, then I can do that with some small 3Ph motors that I have, but I would like to see what they offer. 

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27 minutes ago, Foxbat said:

Thank you for the advice!  I believe the funnel you mean is the Dillon  part Stock Number: 16617, I might try it.

 

As far as the Forcht motor upgrade - I was not able to find it on their site, perhaps you would have a link?  If it is just a faster and more powerful motor, then I can do that with some small 3Ph motors that I have, but I would like to see what they offer. 

 

Oh my bad. Forcht sells it via ImmortoBot - But I just checked their website and it seems it was taken down. Super weird.

 

I think its just double the speed. That is it. Comes with a little control bot to adjust 0-100 for rate of the unit. .

 

Extreme reloading sells one too - https://www.extremereloadingnv.com/product/dillon-casefeeder-motor-upgrade-2/

 

I have only used the Forcht one so I cant say how well the extreme reloading one works. Maybe email Forcht directly and see.

 

 

Edited by Maximis228
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Not a problem at all, I can easily build one myself, I have some beautiful Oriental Motors units with 1/4" shafts and speed controllers.  I actually bought them for just that project years ago, but considering the casefeeder jamming issues, I never did it.

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On 12/12/2018 at 12:40 PM, Foxbat said:

 

Nylon screws are wear item, and there is no need to drill them out, just buy a bag of 100pcs for a few bucks, and change them as soon as you notice slight distortion to the head shape. 

 

In those very few cases when they lost their heads, I used diagonal cutters to unscrew the stem - comes out very easily. 

 

Well, in my case they head sheared straight off so there was nothing to grab them.  CasePro's solution was to use a soldering iron to heat the screw enough for a screwdriver to sink in and turn. Using EasyNOut and drilling them out was simpler.

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On 12/13/2018 at 2:22 AM, 36873687 said:

So the mighty armory is universal decaper. Then Dillon an Redding? Why are u sizing twice just wondering 

The MA decapper is universal.

Sizing twice probably isnt buying me much. I had the dies and the enpty die spots, handle is already being pulled, so why not!

 

On 12/13/2018 at 4:33 AM, Balakay said:

Are you rollsizing and processing dirty brass or are you dry tumbling first?

I sort dirty then wet tumble before rolling and processing.

Edited by Smithcity
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On 12/16/2018 at 9:44 AM, tanks said:

 

Well, in my case they head sheared straight off so there was nothing to grab them.  CasePro's solution was to use a soldering iron to heat the screw enough for a screwdriver to sink in and turn. Using EasyNOut and drilling them out was simpler.

 

I understand, and that is what I am talking about too.  When it sheers off completely, take the good small diagonal cutter, spread its ends about 4-5mm, and press them lightly into the screw - you can easily pull it out that way - done many times.  There is no tension on the screw once its head is lost.  After one turn you use your fingers. 

 

This, if you are talking about the screw on the slider.  If you mean the screw in the drive arm - then I don't have it in my drive.

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On 12/14/2018 at 3:39 PM, Maximis228 said:

 

Oh my bad. Forcht sells it via ImmortoBot - But I just checked their website and it seems it was taken down. Super weird.

 

I think its just double the speed. That is it. Comes with a little control bot to adjust 0-100 for rate of the unit. .

 

Extreme reloading sells one too - https://www.extremereloadingnv.com/product/dillon-casefeeder-motor-upgrade-2/

 

I have only used the Forcht one so I cant say how well the extreme reloading one works. Maybe email Forcht directly and see.

 

 

We are releasing our own casefeeder upgrade kit.  It is a "drop in" requiring no modification of the bowl area or the face plates. The motor bolts in using the screws that currently hold the Dillon motor. It uses the existing switch and has a speed control dial.  It will require the slot modification of the hole in the side of the feeder body that the current power cord exits from (to accommodate the DC power jack).  The switch provides two settings now, forward and reverse, so backing out any jams between a case and the bowl takes less than a second to clear..just reach up, flip the switch to clear then flip back to run.

It will keep up with the Rollsizer on both pistol and rifle and will handle substantially more cases in the bowl.

We are finishing up an auto "jam" sensor that will reverse the direction to clear a jam and then run it normally again. 
 

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