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Rollsizer vs CasePro


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I bought the manual because it will last almost forever.  Any electric one will have a life span no matter what and I'm cheap so I rather replace the drill than the unit.  
My thought on the drill is that you can buy a lot of cheaper or used drills that run for the extra 600 dollars. I figured if you can make a mount for the drill and limit the speed to consistent speed. That's likely me trying to be cheap. Haha

Wonder if it's possible to change over a manual unit to a DC unit if you decided to.

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10 minutes ago, mechanoset said:

NoWe haven't found the motor life limit your and the brush life is a round 1,000hrs. That's 1,200,000 cases before the replacement brushes are required.......

No the gearboxes cannot be changed from manual to D.C. different internals in the gearbox. 

Is that brush life for the DC motor or the AC?

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16 hours ago, mechanoset said:

NoWe haven't found the motor life limit your and the brush life is a round 1,000hrs. That's 1,200,000 cases before the replacement brushes are required.......

No the gearboxes cannot be changed from manual to D.C. different internals in the gearbox. 

 

Just curious, how much work is involved in replacing the brushes?

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  • 2 months later...

Still setting up my Mk Evo and I was having a fair amount of issues with my end results. Keep in mind this is range brass not sorted, just wet tumbled. Yesterday, I tested a Rollsizer I bought here and clearly it works. The near row is some of my test dummy rounds that were not Rollsizer, where many would not gauge correctly. The far row went through the Rollsizer, then through the press. I wasn't a firm believer until I saw the results! 

IMG_20200222_094533-756x1008.jpg

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Quiller, 

 

I have yet to run into any chamber checker issues once the brass is rollsized and find myself only checking the overall length.  I bought the manual rollsizer and really like it.  If I were to do it all over again though, I think I would probably have bought the motorized version (not the commercial grade-as that is more than I need).  I can really go through a lot of brass with the power drill in the manual version, but I've gone through several of the hex screws (due to stripping) and two hex drill bits. Thankfully I bought a craftsman version of the hex drill bit so if it breaks it gets replaced due to their lifetime warranty.   I also use range brass and the bulged brass can put some torque on those hex screws/bits. 

 

Still curious if anyone has experienced any bulged 223 Rem brass?

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1 hour ago, cdeland said:

Quiller, 

 

I have yet to run into any chamber checker issues once the brass is rollsized and find myself only checking the overall length.  I bought the manual rollsizer and really like it.  If I were to do it all over again though, I think I would probably have bought the motorized version (not the commercial grade-as that is more than I need).  I can really go through a lot of brass with the power drill in the manual version, but I've gone through several of the hex screws (due to stripping) and two hex drill bits. Thankfully I bought a craftsman version of the hex drill bit so if it breaks it gets replaced due to their lifetime warranty.   I also use range brass and the bulged brass can put some torque on those hex screws/bits. 

 

Still curious if anyone has experienced any bulged 223 Rem brass?

I had the manual version in my Cart on the DAA site about a hundred times! Even that was more money than I wanted to spend......but when I saw a DC version listed here and I jumped on it. I'm very happy I did and hopefully I'll finalize press set up in the coming weeks and start rolling my own again. 

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23 minutes ago, quiller said:

I had the manual version in my Cart on the DAA site about a hundred times! Even that was more money than I wanted to spend......but when I saw a DC version listed here and I jumped on it. I'm very happy I did and hopefully I'll finalize press set up in the coming weeks and start rolling my own again. 

I'd chosen the manual one because any electronic device will have a life span,  Other than changing a few hex bit/bolt and may be a power drill the manual one almost last forever. 

With the use of the DAA mini case feeder, I can do around 1000 brass in an hour.  Yes, you can say I'm cheap but it gets the job done for me and I don't have to worry about the motor will burn off some day.😅

 

Edited by BigEar
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I had the manual version in my Cart on the DAA site about a hundred times! Even that was more money than I wanted to spend......but when I saw a DC version listed here and I jumped on it. I'm very happy I did and hopefully I'll finalize press set up in the coming weeks and start rolling my own again. 
I almost went for the one on the classifieds last week. That was a great price for the DC version.

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25 minutes ago, anbrumm said:

I almost went for the one on the classifieds last week. That was a great price for the DC version.

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I just happened to check out the classified and saw it. Was surprised it lasted as long as it did! 

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BigEar,

I have a similar set up like yours with the same case feeder.  I had a friend with a 3d printer make me a case funnel for it and it sure makes loading it a lot easier.  Based on what Kevin Whitehead said a few comments earlier, I just changed the placement of my rollsizer so I can have a better angle to keep the power drill level.  So hopefully that will help with the stripping out issue.

 

 

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38 minutes ago, cdeland said:

BigEar,

I have a similar set up like yours with the same case feeder.  I had a friend with a 3d printer make me a case funnel for it and it sure makes loading it a lot easier.  Based on what Kevin Whitehead said a few comments earlier, I just changed the placement of my rollsizer so I can have a better angle to keep the power drill level.  So hopefully that will help with the stripping out issue.

 

 

Do you have the file for the case funnel? May I see how that works? :D

Yes, I never have a problem of the stripping issue. 

Edited by BigEar
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21 hours ago, BigEar said:

Do you have the file for the case funnel? May I see how that works? :D

 

BigEar,

 

This is the one I downloaded and use.  It works for 9mm and 40, but I had a 2nd one made and I used a drummel tool (sandpaper attachment) and opened the holes a little more so the 40 cal case would go in a little easier.   I wish DAA had a similar case feeder for 45acp.    Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496028  If the downloadable file doesn't work for some reason I can always email it to you. 

 

I just added this YouTube link of a video I created just to display its use.  Not the greatest video, but you'll get the point.

 

https://youtu.be/UN8msCM_7PY

 

Part 2

Edited by cdeland
adding video file
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1 hour ago, cdeland said:

 

 

BigEar,

 

This is the one I downloaded and use.  It works for 9mm and 40, but I had a 2nd one made and I used a drummel tool (sandpaper attachment) and opened the holes a little more so the 40 cal case would go in a little easier.   I wish DAA had a similar case feeder for 45acp.    Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496028  If the downloadable file doesn't work for some reason I can always email it to you. 

 

I just added this YouTube link of a video I created just to display its use.  Not the greatest video, but you'll get the point.

 

https://youtu.be/UN8msCM_7PY

Many thanks, but I still wonder how it works because it looks like there are only few holes there.  How to prevent the brass goes in upside down? :D

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1 minute ago, BigEar said:

Many thanks, but I still wonder how it works because it looks like there are only few holes there.  How to prevent the brass goes in upside down? :D

 

It has a hole for each cylinder and I rarely get a case that feeds improperly, but it does happen.  It is easy to see in the rollsizer and I just drop it down the tube again.  

 

 

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I'd chosen the manual one because any electronic device will have a life span,  Other than changing a few hex bit/bolt and may be a power drill the manual one almost last forever. 
With the use of the DAA mini case feeder, I can do around 1000 brass in an hour.  Yes, you can say I'm cheap but it gets the job done for me and I don't have to worry about the motor will burn off some day.[emoji28]
 

What drill are you (or others) using? What level of torque is required?


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31 minutes ago, MNshooter said:


What drill are you (or others) using? What level of torque is required?


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An inexpensive 6 amp Black & Decker drill with cord.  Ref: level of torque I cannot tell you for sure, but once a case is wedged between the outer wall and the caliber disc, you cannot move it at all with your hands. The drill works very well as does the hand crank, but you can get so much more done with the drill and not be  fatigued.  As stated previously in my earlier posts, I was having some stripping and even had a hex bit snap, but I believe how I have it set up now, in the picture below I will hopefully avoid those issues going forward. 

 

drill pic.jpg

Edited by cdeland
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21 minutes ago, cdeland said:

An inexpensive 6 amp Black & Decker drill with cord.  Ref: level of torque I cannot tell you for sure, but once a case is wedged between the outer wall and the caliber disc, you cannot move it at all with your hands. The drill works very well as does the hand crank, but you can get so much more done with the drill and not be  fatigued.  As stated previously in my earlier posts, I was having some stripping and even had a hex bit snap, but I believe how I have it set up now, in the picture below I will hopefully avoid those issues going forward. 

 

drill pic.jpg

Wow, you do have a bulky clamps. I preferred fixed it on the bench as the clamps gets on the way. And I also preferred cordless drill for easy handling.  Just personal preference :D

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