Better cheek weld?

[leam]

Hey all, I'm new to precision rifle and need some advice. This is my first scoped rifle and my first adjustable stock. Don't laugh at the hardware, but I have a Savage Axis 223 lefty, Millett TRS-1, a 20 MOA base, and a Boyd's AT-ONE adjustable stock. Rifle looks great and shoots way better than me. The issue I'm having is getting my front cheek bone to weld to the stock and still be able to see through the scope, without shadow. The stock's cheek piece is fully up and tops out higher than the centerline of the bore, the scope only has about a quarter inch in front to the barrel. Other people seem to use lower cheek pieces.

 

I'm assuming there's some "operator error" here. My goal is a consistent cheek weld without muscle strain. Pointers on how to achieve that?

[JonSnow]

As someone who has high cheek bones, I can tell you not to worry too much about what other people are doing.  Every shooter's face is different; the critical dimension here is the height of your eye from the bottom of your cheek-bone.  I personally have to have high cheek-pieces and low rings on all my rifles.

 

The one place where operator error can get in the way and make things more difficult is head tilt.  If you're tipping your head forward (looking through the very top of your shooting glasses) you're shortening that critical dimension.  For kneeling and higher positions, try to make a conscious effort to put the butt higher in your shoulder pocket; that will get your head more upright.  For prone, try extending your bipod legs a click or two higher, which will also get your head more upright.

[10ring]

I tend to place some of the flesh of my cheek on the rest instead of locking my cheekbone onto the rest.  

[blackstone]

are you on a bench or prone?

[leam]

6 hours ago, blackstone said:

are you on a bench or prone?

In theory doing PRS, so a variety of positions. In reality just getting in to it so bench while I build skills and loads.