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X-line/Geppert triggers

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Hello all,

 Has anyone had any experience with the fitting and use of the X- line Vario triggers that have the adjustable and removable shoe? Looking to possibly try one in an STI 2011 plastic frame and if things go well would look into use in my 1911. Thanks in advance.

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I have installed several X-Line/Geppert triggers. Some grips/frames they drop right into without needing any fitting. Others require an extensive amount of fitting. Just as with any other aftermarket gun part nothing is guaranteed to be a "Drop In" part. Be prepared to perform an extensive amount of precise fitting if the part doesn't drop in. If you are not up for that, then leave it to a Gunsmith.

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I'm prepared to do some fitting. Hopefully I can modify the bow and/or shoe with only minimal change to the frame. Would rather try to adjust the least expensive part and then my factory trigger could go back in if for some reason I did not like the Vario. Do you use a certain type of Loctite to keep the shoe in place from rotating once it is set to the desired length? Have you worked with the flat shoe and if so how would you describe the length of the medium Vario compared to an SVI medium interchangeable shoe system? Thanks

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You don't want to lock tight the shoe onto the bow. Having the shoe "loose" allows it to move around as needed to minimize the chance of binding. Once the trigger shoe/bow is installed in the grip/frame it can't rotate much at all so you don't have to worry about the depth of the shoe changing.

 

All of the X-Line/Geppert trigger setups have a wide range of trigger shoe depth adjustability. I use the Medium flat X-Line triggers in my 2011's as it range of adjustment can be set to match the SVI Medium flat as well as being either shorter or longer than that as well.

 

From a fitting perspective it all comes down to luck really. As I said before, I have seen them simply drop in without needing any fitting and also had to spend a few hours fitting the shoe and bow separately to guns. In fact I ran into an extensive fitting situation last night on a buddies 2011 with an old style CK steel grip. It took me over 2 hours to fit the shoe and bow to that grip and it also required removing material from the shoe track within the grip. I always try to modify the cheapest parts first which in this case was the trigger bow or shoe. But sometimes those parts can only be modified so much before you have to make changes to the grip or frame because of machining inconsistencies.  

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I'm fitting a medium flat X-Line right now to a Cheely E2 grip.  The slot width and height are correct.  The bow channels are correct, but the trigger does not fit.  There are two triangle shaped 'pads' on the top and bottom of each side of the shoe opening that were not machined when the opening was broached.  You cannot get at them with a scraper, so they have to be filed down, then polished.  If they had pushed the broach in another 3/8" the trigger would have dropped right in.  I don't want to remove material from the shoe, because it is anodized.

 

More likely than not, the should drop right into a poly frame.

Edited by zzt

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I just fit one to an STI plastic grip.  You will need to do some fitting.  The height of the trigger is the biggest issue.  It's really not a big job.  I used a set of needle files and took my time.  File a little and test fit.  Repeat until it fits properly.  There are Youtube videos to show you the way.

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8 hours ago, zzt said:

I'm fitting a medium flat X-Line right now to a Cheely E2 grip.  The slot width and height are correct.  The bow channels are correct, but the trigger does not fit.  There are two triangle shaped 'pads' on the top and bottom of each side of the shoe opening that were not machined when the opening was broached.  You cannot get at them with a scraper, so they have to be filed down, then polished.  If they had pushed the broach in another 3/8" the trigger would have dropped right in.  I don't want to remove material from the shoe, because it is anodized.

 

More likely than not, the should drop right into a poly frame.

.

I removed those triangles and had to reduce overall height by ~.008"

 

I have a small milling machine so It was easy. >.004" off each surface.

 

I'm fitting both a medium flat and long curved.

 

Distance from the back of the bow to trigger surface is within .020" between the two screwed all the way in.

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I have one in my Titan. I put one in my backup’s plastic STI grip so it would be a little more similar. Used a small square file to open up the grip where the trigger slides. Again, a little at a time top and bottom. 

 

I didnt take take it off the shoe because it is anodized and therefore hardened, albeit shallow. Plus the finish on the trigger is pretty slick so it rides on the plastic pretty smooth. 

 

STI grips are relatively cheap compared to a steel grip so I wasn’t too worried about it. 

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