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Drtheo

Recommendations on setting up my Lim pro trigger for shooting production

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Any recommendations on what I should do other than the standard polishing that Memphis mechanic shows? Are there any special trigger bars disconnectors or Sears I should be looking at? Any suggestions on Springs to improve the trigger? Thank you

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Depends on how fussy you are. 

 

My guns have PD bolo, Titan hammer, 1 piece sear, extended firing pin block, lighter hammer spring, PD or Xtreme extended firing pins & fp springs, reduced weight trigger return spring. Basically I just asked Joe at Patriot Defense what goodies to get for the best trigger I could get. 

 

Lots of folks put in extra power extractor springs, I use stock unless I have an issue. 

 

You do not need all that stuff but for me it is worthwhile. 

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I do not beleieve titan hammer and bolo are necessary, and I prefer a tanfo trigger without them. A lot of guys love their feel, and it certainly is shorter & cleaner.

 

Guide rod

front sight from Xtreme

single piece sear

Hammer, trigger, sear, and firing pin return springs from patriot.

Xtreme firing pin block, if needed.

 

Polish.

 

Done.

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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I do not beleieve titan hammer and bolo are necessary, and I prefer a tanfo trigger without them. A lot of guys love their feel, and it certainly is shorter & cleaner.

 

Guide rod

front sight from Xtreme

single piece sear

Hammer, trigger, sear, and firing pin return springs from patriot.

Xtreme firing pin block, if needed.

 

Polish.

 

Done.

 

Agree although the Lim Pros by default come with a 1 piece sear.

 

I would say Dawson front sight instead of Xtreme only because it seems the Xtremes are super tall at 5.5 and 6mm.  I'd go with a .140 or lower Dawson in order to keep the rear adjustable sight down.

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34 minutes ago, V2plus25 said:

 

I would say Dawson front sight instead of Xtreme only because it seems the Xtremes are super tall at 5.5 and 6mm.  I'd go with a .140 or lower Dawson in order to keep the rear adjustable sight down.

 

Dawson measures from slide to top of sight, Xtreme measures overall height. A 5.5mm works out to be about a .150" Dawson measured + - .

 

On one gun I needed to go to a 6.0 mm to zero, else the 5.5 have worked aok. Both styles work, Dawson design is sort of a round peg for a square hole with the Tanfo, it worked best for me with loctite red and peened edges on the sight for a slight interference fit, Dawson is brighter unless you can find the Extreme with the fatter fiber and want the wider sight.  

 

I prefer the Xtreme just because of the mounting set up, but no big deal. 

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6 hours ago, V2plus25 said:

 

Agree although the Lim Pros by default come with a 1 piece sear.

 

I would say Dawson front sight instead of Xtreme only because it seems the Xtremes are super tall at 5.5 and 6mm.  I'd go with a .140 or lower Dawson in order to keep the rear adjustable sight down.

 

Dawsons’s setscrew setup is lacking severely, and they come loose.

 

Xtreme sights don’t.

 

A .140 Dawson was pretty much at the bottom of my rear sight’s range; not sure you can go much lower.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Dawsons’s setscrew setup is lacking severely, and they come loose.

 

Xtreme sights never don’t.

 

A .140 Dawson was pretty much at the bottom of my rear sight’s range; not sure you can go much lower.

 

fully agreee!

 

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Just now, Fasthenk65 said:

fully agreee!

 

i tried the dawson but should have listened to MM ;-0

 

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7 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Dawson measures from slide to top of sight, Xtreme measures overall height. A 5.5mm works out to be about a .150" Dawson measured + - .

 

On one gun I needed to go to a 6.0 mm to zero, else the 5.5 have worked aok. Both styles work, Dawson design is sort of a round peg for a square hole with the Tanfo, it worked best for me with loctite red and peened edges on the sight for a slight interference fit, Dawson is brighter unless you can find the Extreme with the fatter fiber and want the wider sight.  

 

I prefer the Xtreme just because of the mounting set up, but no big deal. 

 

Ah that makes sense.  Didn't seem right the Xtremes were that high.

 

The Dawson set screw does suck and I don't like that I have to cut the fiber in order to get to the screw.  And I did had to red lok-tite it in.  But I do like the way the fiber rod retracts into the sight keeping the ballooning of the fiber end to a minimum.

 

The .140 had my rear sight about half way down whereas the .150 had it up far enough to where the adjustable screw kept moving every time I shot.

 

Dunno... maybe the Xtremes are better.

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1 hour ago, Drtheo said:

Is the Titan hammer uspsa production leagle?

Yes

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Henning guide rod, imo, is a must upgrade.

Some like the thinner DP .140, Extreme for a more stock fitment but I find it too thick.

Buy a bunch of springs since they are cheap and try what you like. Recoil, main, trigger return.

Polishing parts goes a long way.

Goodluck!

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Only if you're trying to come in under a certain weight as in setting up for IDPA.  If weight isn't a factor then Henning all the way!

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24 minutes ago, Drtheo said:

Is there a benefit of the Henning over the PD?

 

Henning developed the cone-fit rod to fix peening issues with the frame. Shortly thereafter the Tanfoglio Xtreme knockoff of it came out.

 

Patriot’s version is at least more than a cloning; it’s lightened to help the lim pro make weight in IDPA... or perhaps if you turn a stock II into a carry optics gun. For all other divisons in USPSA, run a henning.

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Do you mean all other divisions than carry Optics I was hoping to turn my Lim Pro into a production gun.

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16 minutes ago, Drtheo said:

Do you mean all other divisions than carry Optics I was hoping to turn my Lim Pro into a production gun.

 

The henning GR is good for production.

 

 

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Would someone tell me what the extended firing pin block adds in terms of functionality/trigger? Thanks!

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sometimes with the fitting of different hammer/sear/safety combinations, the factory firing pin block is not actuated enough to block the firing pin when the trigger is not depressed. the extended firing pin block rectifies this, although it may take some fitting. it is needed if shooting in production, but can be removed altogether for limited. there should be no impact on trigger feel.

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@motherFNbrandon Thank you! Can people comment on hammers? How important are they in regard to trigger weight and primer ignition? I am interested in setting up a lim pro for IDPA SSP/USPSA Prod. I believe the Titan hammer is off the cards, but the Heart and possibly the Delta might be allowed. Any experience with these?

 

I apologize if this is thread hijacking but it seems relevant to the discussion.

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2 hours ago, Brophy-J said:

Would someone tell me what the extended firing pin block adds in terms of functionality/trigger? Thanks!

 

The function of setting off primers will not change, unless of course the block is poorly fitted.

 

Becareful to meet the rules in whatever division and or discipline (USPSA/IDPA/3 Gun...) you maybe shooting and removing the block may be prohibited, not mention a reduction in safety features. 

 

If you change sears in TF you may need the extended block or the block may not function at all. Additionally the small frame extended firing pin from Henning will not work with a block.

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The "performance" hammers have shorter hooks that mate with the sear.  That gives a lighter smoother SA release. They also have altered geometry to tune the swing length and force progression in DA. 

 

The unica hammer has more swing arc than any other hammer. That makes it hit harder. It also has the lightest SA release when mated with the unica sear. I think the sear/hook engagement rules there.

 

My opinion is that a hammer change gives better trigger feel and lightness. SA can be 1 -2 pound less.

Possibly better ignition reliability with Delta and Titan.  Definitely better with unica solid hammer.

 

But its only like a spring weight 1/2 to 1 pound more.

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2 hours ago, johnbu said:

The unica hammer has more swing arc than any other hammer. That makes it hit harder. 

 

No free lunches served :) .

 

I expect that it does hit harder, but just based on the fact that johnbu says so and he seems to test things.

 

Thinking about the most efficient way to absorb energy from the hammer spring (heavy hammer-long radius hammer-etc.), and then thinking about the most efficient energy transfer to the firing pin (fastest hit or hit with greatest momentum behind it, etc), and then thinking about the best way to transfer energy to the primer (again, fastest speed or greatest momentum), is not trivial.

 

It seems like the Tanfo thought process seems to be "heavy" hammer + heavy pin or light hammer plus light pin. With everything pistol but Tanfo's it seems like folks always go with lightest hammer (& hammer strut) & lightest pin, greatest possible speed but least efficient energy transfer from the hammer (main) spring. 

 

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Interesting point on heavy.

 

The Tanfo approach seems to echo that with a "mv" mass * velocity inertia  bias versus "mv2" or mass*velocity squared kinetic energy bias. 

 

The newer generation heart shaped hammers weigh more than the older. Titan hammer added and moved weight up in the swing arc. The Unica is solid and weighs even more.  Efficiency of energy transfer seems to be higher with higher inertia vs kinetic energy. At least in this platform!

 

As you said, no free lunch. All the shiny go fast parts are small incremental improvements.  Nothing will make a 10# hammer spring 100% reliable on hard primers.  But they can get you a reliable sub-4# da on soft federal primed ammo.

 

 

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