Another Beginner Question

[toddrod]

I have been shooting USPSA for 3 years now and want to start shooting shotgun sports as well. In my area there is not alot of shotgunning going on, so I really have no experienced shooters to learn from so I need to the forum members help at getting starting by answering / listing answers to these questions. I am looking for recommendations for good basic equipment to have fun with at the range. Do not plan on getting into serious competition as money will be an issue.

I have never shot shotgun before.

I am 6'2" and weigh 300lbs

I am left handed and left eye dominant.

The range I will shoot at is new and the owner is not a shotgunner so even he can not help me as far as teaching and he says the field is set up for Clays, skeet, trap and five man with a 5 man elevated deck.

What starter gun for left hander - under $1000 - auto or O/U?

What type of choke tubes?

What type of ammo form Walmart would work.

If I start reloading, what is the cost savings reloading 12 and 20 gauge.

Recommended resource:

Addition websites with information

Books

Video / DVDs

Gunsmithes - for later if I really get into this

Total cost for a round of skeet, ammo, birds, range fees (I believe the range is charging $6 for 25 birds of skeet)

Reloaders - Brands?

Shotshell reloading resources ( how to do it / videos or books) I have many listing for load data already from Winchester, Allaint to start with.

Any thing else you can think of.

The closest big shotgun range is 60+ miles away so I will be learning on my own here. I want to thank everyone in advance for any information.

Could this be made into a FAQ listing.

Todd

[davidwiz]

I would suggest becoming a member of the National Sporting Clays Association, which gets you a monthly copy of Sporting Clays Magazine which has a lot of great info in it.

As for a gun, it's going to be hard to find an good o/u for under a $1k. There are a lot of good semi-autos out there. Beretta makes several for under $1k, as do other manufactures.

If you're just starting out, I wouldn't worry too much about switching out choke tubes. Modified or Improved Cylinder will be fine.

Wallyworld ammo works, as does Wolf and other store-bought ammo. 2 3/4" #7 shot, and whatever oz or dram equiv that your gun likes. Reloading shotgun shells can get real expensive unless you plan on doing a lot of it. The economics usually don't work out as good as they do if you're reloading pistol or rifle.

Around here (South Jersey), a round of Sporting Clays is about $30 - $40 + your ammo costs.

[JD45]

The first thing to do would be to find some guns to try. Even if you have to drive 100 miles to rent a few, it will be worth it! Maybe shoot a Beretta 391, a Remington 1100-87, and a Browning Citori.

You may want a lefty for an auto. The over and under won't have that problem.

Right now, it seems like everybody is shooting a 30" or longer barrel in over and unders. I bought a used one with 26" barrels and broke my neck to trade it for a 30". Trap, skeet, or sporting, short barrels are a thing of the past.

Buying components really cheap from our gun club, I can load a 1oz. target shell for 2.65 per box (with free hulls). Stink'n Mega Low Mart went up a little on their hot Remington 1oz. load; they were 3.27 a box last time I checked. But still, you don't save a ton loading shotshells.

What you do get from reloading is the ability to make a nice 1145fps one ounce load that you can't find in the center aisle of the store. Their 1oz. goes 1290fps.

For books, try to find a copy of Bob Brister's, Shotgunning the Art and Science.

But please, shoot some guns before you buy.

[JD45]

For Sporting clays (auto traps) our club charges non-members $25, and $20 for members. Trap and skeet are $2.50 for members.

Check here for videos and other stuff: http://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com/

[Irishlad]

For under a $1,000 I'd go with either the Remington 1100/1187 or a Beretta variant 391, etc, etc. Probably 30" bbl.

As mentioned, for that money you can buy a very good auto or a "not so great" O/U. Don't be afraid to look at used ones from reputable people or shops...save lots.

I'd buy the "sporting" version which will come with choke tubes. You can buy more tubes as needed, but keep it simple. Use the skeet chokes for skeet or other targets from 25 yards and under. If the gun came with improved cylinder, use those for skeet.

Trap, 16 yard, use modified or improved modified.

Sporting is all over the "board" with chokes. So, IMHO, I'd keep it simple and use improved cylinder for targets under 30 yards. Modified to 40 yards, Full beyond 40 yards. If in doubt, always overchoke. Don't switch much because if you are missing, it probably "ain't the choke". Unless you listen to some sporting "chap" that insists he can break(crush) 50 yard crossers, all day, with a skeet, IC choke...that's nonsense.

I wouldn't bother reloading until you decide to stick with it and shoot a fair amount.

You can buy the "promo" loads like Estate, Remington, Federal, etc in 1 1/8 very cheap right now. Reload later when you want to tailor your loads and shoot enough to warrant it.

Buy a Mec Grabber shotshell reloader if you decide to load later on.

A trained monkey can load shotgun shells...trust me. You still have to be careful no question.

If that club 60 miles away has some instruction in skeet and trap, you would save yourself a lot of time, money and frustration by taking some lessons. Use some of the money saved from not buying all those videos and books! It's my experience that even if they don't offer lessons, there are many shooters that will be glad to help you.

I'd "learn(enjoy)" skeet first, then trap, then sporting. Learn means you have the fundamentals and "expect" to hit many of the targets.

Unlike pistols IM experience, , good shotguns need little if any gunsmithing as a rule and the brands you should buy are common and many gunsmiths can fix them if needed.

Have fun and good luck.

[JD45]

That is some good advice, Irishlad.

Man, I couldn't agree more with your ideas on chokes. I finally learned that while you can break a few 40-50yd. edge-on targets with open chokes and small shot, you are losing plenty. If the target is over 40yds. and shows no belly, I grab 7 1/2 shot and a full choke. It does nothing but help your score.

[Irishlad]

I agree JD45 and good point on the 7 1/2's.

If I had to pick one shot size for all around, I'd go with the 7 1/2's. Less pellet count but they retain their "energy" and I believe you need less pellets to break the bird.

I looked at a pattern with an open choke at 40 yards once, it wasn't pretty.

[toddrod]

That is the kind of nformation I was looking for. Thanks.

[HASIII]

Hello Todd,

First take a look at trapshooters.com. Lots of opinions on everything.

For a gun I would look at Remington or Beretta auto loader. I shoot both and the Beretta is less prone to parts breakage but I shoot the Remington better and can fix anything that poops out in less than 5 minutes. Remington makes a left handed auto and Beretta doesn't but I have lefty friends who shoot right handed auto loaders. If you want to try a break open gun buy a Browning BT-99. The auto loader barrels should be 30" and full chokes.

The BT-99 should be 34" and shoot full also. Wallmart Ammo is fine for what you will be doing as a starter. I like the Federal 4 pack that sells for around $4 a box.

Stay with 3 dram or less 1 1/8 oz. of 7 1/2 or 8. Estate is a brand that is making a good name for itself around here and sells for about $3.50 per box.

When you get your gun the first thing you should do is get someone to make the gun fit you. This is crtical and will save you tons of frustration. The gun when properly mounted needs to shoot where you are looking because you do not look at the barrel or beads directly when shooting clays. The big issue is comb height and you want the gun to shoot a bit high for point of impact. I shoot a 60/40 pattern and that is considered a flat shooter.

Good luck,

Harry