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Grip technique/pressure


DKnoch

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Try a bunch of things and use what works best for you. That is what matters, what works for you. 

 

Just because a pair of shorts works for one guy, it does not mean they will button around your waist or your junk won't be hanging out the bottom when you put them on.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, JL175 said:

On the Practical Shooter Training Group (practicalshootingtraininggroup.com), Kim mentions the following:

 

"Second, to eliminate the muzzle dipping and wobbling up and down, try having a big pressure underneath the trigger guard with your index finger. When you see great shooter’s grip, their index fingertip (or middle finger if they hook the index finger on the trigger guard) is higher than the trigger guard and use that as a leverage to create pressure underneath the trigger guard. So in recoil, the trigger guard won’t move off from your index finger."

 

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This is only a small section on Kim's discussion of grip.  But I found it quite helpful.  

 

You may want to contact a Moderator and remove this post.  I am pretty sure you are not allowed to post information from that website to anywhere else.  That information is for paid members from my understanding.

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I think this video posted by Charlie Perez pretty much sums up recoil management. I think any grip where one hand counteracts the other is going to cause trouble the second one hand increases or decreases what it is doing. A monster neutral grip is what you want, or a neutral grip and a very effective compensator.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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10 hours ago, B585 said:

I really like how Hwsanik said it on Firearms Nation, grip tight enough that the gun doesn’t move in your hand. After that, the grip’s job is done.  From there you need to lock your joints to control recoil.

Your joints get "locked" when your muscles contract. Muscles cross joints and make them move or make them not move. It is isometric contraction when they are not moving. They can be locked in different positions, some more stable than others, but it is done with muscle contraction.

 

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17 minutes ago, lgh said:

Your joints get "locked" when your muscles contract. Muscles cross joints and make them move or make them not move. It is isometric contraction when they are not moving. They can be locked in different positions, some more stable than others, but it is done with muscle contraction.

 

Yes, muscles do contract to “lock” joints, but you can essentially lock your wrists without using extreme grip pressure.  Hawsink said the tighter you grip, the more likely you are to tense other muscles and lock your joints, but you can to learn to lock your wrists without extreme grip pressure.  I personally have found this to be true and it has help me maintain better trigger control while maintaining recoil control (in Limited Major).

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I thought Hwansik on the podcast also said he was concentrating on just front to back pressure, and minimizing side to side to try to track vertically.   

 

Bob Vogel’s older grip video covers locking support wrist forward pretty well.  

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/15/2018 at 7:56 PM, tanks said:

As far as I can while still holding the gun but the wrist only fingers follow naturally. If you make a fist and than you cam your wrist forward you'll realize it is not a ton either. Here is a video of me doing it at TPC. You'll see that the sights come back naturally (look at the  front sight  against the background) and the cam is not exaggerated.

 

 

Could you explain how you apply pressure? If you push/pull or squeeze the  gun hard? I noticed there’s very little flip on your gun and that is the main thing I have been having troubles with.

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16 hours ago, JohnS23 said:

Could you explain how you apply pressure? If you push/pull or squeeze the  gun hard? I noticed there’s very little flip on your gun and that is the main thing I have been having troubles with.

 

Neither. My grip is  like a C-clamp. Front to back with the strong hand and front to back with the support hand (I do get a bit of the back  strap with the support hand to get leverage). As hard as I can with the strong hand and still manipulate the trigger, and as hard as I can with the support hand. The wrist is canted as well. There is no side to side pressure/squeeze at all if I can help it.

 

Also, that was a 9mm with factory ammo not a .40 at 172PF that I usually compete with and that could account for little flip as well.

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17 minutes ago, tanks said:

 

Neither. My grip is  like a C-clamp. Front to back with the strong hand and front to back with the support hand (I do get a bit of the back  strap with the support hand to get leverage). As hard as I can with the strong hand and still manipulate the trigger, and as hard as I can with the support hand. The wrist is canted as well. There is no side to side pressure/squeeze at all if I can help it.

 

Also, that was a 9mm with factory ammo not a .40 at 172PF that I usually compete with and that could account for little flip as well.

You mean you rotate your strong hand a bit counter clockwise so that the support hand gets a little bit of the backstrap? Cause when I grip mine my strong hand covers all of the back.

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41 minutes ago, tanks said:

My strong hand thumb is up when my support hand gets there, that gives enough room for the support hand to get a piece of the backstrap. Then the thumb comes down. 

 

But the best way to learn all of this to take the 3 day Handgun Mastery Course at TPC. ;)  

 

https://classes.tacticalperformancecenter.com/handgun-mastery/

Thanks for the tips! I will definitely attend one once I can afford their course. 

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