chaserracer Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hey y'all. I wanted to poll some opinions out there regarding running this pistol in the Limited Division. One just happened to come up for sale in my area and given my mild obsession with the Tanfo goodness i was super intrigued by the thought of getting this gun set up for a future in limited down the road. Ive heard of problems with the hard chrome lim pro in .40 but wasn't sure if these shared the same issues, etc. Thank you in advance for any info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 The gun is solid, but will still need polishing and springs. best trigger (2#) will need a hammer. (Delta, titan or unica) My preference would be the standard gun, the same parts and the hundreds saved used to buy bullets! But, I'm a poor boy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaserracer Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Understood, and that stuff is half the fun So @johnbu you have heard nothing in terms of cracked frames, broken rear sights, or extractors with the hotter .40 rounds? I read somewhere that the original (non extreme) lim pro's were great in 9mm but had tons of issues with the .40 builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaserracer Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 Maybe @Twinkie can chime in here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 2 hours ago, chaserracer said: I read somewhere that the original (non extreme) lim pro's were great in 9mm but had tons of issues with the .40 builds. I've not heard that, nor experienced it. my MATCH has 10-12,000 rounds with no issue. My 40cal stock 2 has about the same. There WAS some 10mm (and lesser degree 40) slide cracking back in the 1990's. That was corrected by design change 20 years ago. (as i understand it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaserracer Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 5 minutes ago, johnbu said: I've not heard that, nor experienced it. my MATCH has 10-12,000 rounds with no issue. My 40cal stock 2 has about the same. There WAS some 10mm (and lesser degree 40) slide cracking back in the 1990's. That was corrected by design change 20 years ago. (as i understand it). I knew i had read about it somewhere and it was on here. @CHA-LEE has an extensive USPSA journal (cha-lees tale) and i remember reading through it and on his experience competing on Limited Div using a Tanfo Elite Limited and having several rear sights, extractors and eventually even a frame crack before he moved on to a custom 2011 style gun. Understanding that anything can happen once, i was more concerned about hearing more of the same happening to others as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlussoro Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 I have a limited 40 hard chrome. 20 k plus down pipe no issues what so ever! Lights off cci primers , xl firing pin Henning trigger delta Hammer, eats any ammo you throw at it but my go to match load is3.8 gr TG 200gr bear creek coated pills, cci primers will touch holes at 18 yards all day every day !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaserracer Posted October 4, 2018 Author Share Posted October 4, 2018 2 minutes ago, Mlussoro said: I have a limited 40 hard chrome. 20 k plus down pipe no issues what so ever! Lights off cci primers , xl firing pin Henning trigger delta Hammer, eats any ammo you throw at it but my go to match load is3.8 gr TG 200gr bear creek coated pills, cci primers will touch holes at 18 yards all day every day !!! YESSSSS!!!! Hoping to hear more like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATLDave Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 I have a Limited that is actually chambered in 10mm, though I make ~170PF rounds for it. I have tens of thousands of rounds through it. The rear sight is the weak point. Slide and frame? No, no problem. As CHA-LEE says repeatedly, he is good at breaking stuff. He breaks his 2011's, too... it's just a little easier to "feed them new slides" as he put it. But, no, they do not have some systemic problem. That's simply not true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 Its a solid lim div gun, i have two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaboot Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) Bought a used Limited .40 beginning of this year. Original owner said the pistol had 15-20k through it. I have put about 3-4k through it to now for this season. I know he replaced the rear sight once. My rear sight just is starting to move and will need replaced again. My slide stop broke 500 rds ago. My extractor was causing FTF issues that was a issue with original owner. My grip screws keep coming loose. While these are not big issues and you'll likely run into same stuff on any gun, this is just my experience. A few local guys who shoot .40 cal Stock 2 minor for production always seem to shudder in fear when talking about shooting .40 major through their guns. Lol. When the gun runs its awesome. I just can't get it to go through a month of shooting with out annoying issues. Edited October 8, 2018 by ninjaboot spell check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 No need to replace the rear sight. (In all probability). unscrew and remove the elevation screw. Avoid losing the 2 springs! you will find the set screws that Hold the sight to the gun are loose. Take them out, degrease and clean. Use RED locktite 271 to hold them in place. Take out the extractor and inspect. if chipped replace. You may need to adjust tension by removing metal on the square pad. Use the Wolff xtra power spring. DO NOT TRIM. it will be a itch to replace, but they work better. Add a small oring under the grip screw and use a lot of 241 (wood/plastic/g10) grips or 271 on metal grips. use a soldering iron to remove the screws in the future . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaboot Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 My issue with the sight is the elevation screw is coming loose under recoil. I tried all the little tricks to get it to stop but even with red locktite the screw starts to move after 300rds. I put a dab of epoxy on it and am going to see how that works. My extractor had the bottom little wave part that helps guide the case to the breech worn down so it would hang up at times. it was worn just slightly but a new one made all the difference. I haven't tried a Oring under the screw yet but I red locktite the screws but it seems eventually they come loose at some point. Ill try the Oring. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 34 minutes ago, ninjaboot said: y issue with the sight is the elevation screw is coming loose under recoil Are you running with the rear sight high? (using a tall front sight) The sight keeps better against the detents with more pressure from the springs. if you can get a longer spring, or a shorter front sight post (0.150"). The epoxy may also work. It can be removed with heat from a soldering iron should the need arise. "Stroking" the slide like an open gun to 2.0 - 2.2" stroke will reduce the rear hammering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATLDave Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 johnbu, got any suggestions for a source of stronger springs to stick under the rear sight leaf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Sadly, no. maybe Grainger ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avenida Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) On 10/8/2018 at 8:40 PM, johnbu said: No need to replace the rear sight. (In all probability). unscrew and remove the elevation screw. Avoid losing the 2 springs! you will find the set screws that Hold the sight to the gun are loose. Take them out, degrease and clean. Use RED locktite 271 to hold them in place. Take out the extractor and inspect. if chipped replace. You may need to adjust tension by removing metal on the square pad. Use the Wolff xtra power spring. DO NOT TRIM. it will be a itch to replace, but they work better. Add a small oring under the grip screw and use a lot of 241 (wood/plastic/g10) grips or 271 on metal grips. use a soldering iron to remove the screws in the future . What he said!! Edited October 10, 2018 by Avenida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaserracer Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 This is all good information and i appreciate the feedback from everyone, super grateful for this community. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthpig Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 The Limited Custom Extreme is ready to go out of the box. 2 3/4lb trigger out of the box and yes, it cleans up to 2 or less. At least that has been my experience. The only thing you need is hennings 140 base pads for 20rd reloadabe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazhi Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 On 10/9/2018 at 7:46 AM, ninjaboot said: I haven't tried a Oring under the screw yet but I red locktite the screws but it seems eventually they come loose at some point. Ill try the Oring. Thanks. I run SSI scale grips. The only way to stop the grips becoming loose is to use JB cold weld epoxy on the contact surface between the grip panels and the frame, then apply red loctite on the screws. Just the red loctite loosen up eventually around 8k or so for me. With JB cold weld, it has held up for the past 50k with no sign of getting loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 On 10/9/2018 at 9:09 AM, ATLDave said: johnbu, got any suggestions for a source of stronger springs to stick under the rear sight leaf? I looked at grainger... this one may be acceptable. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/SPEC-Metric-Compression-Spring-41ML09?breadcrumbCatId=16631 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaboot Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 11 hours ago, Dazhi said: I run SSI scale grips. The only way to stop the grips becoming loose is to use JB cold weld epoxy on the contact surface between the grip panels and the frame, then apply red loctite on the screws. Just the red loctite loosen up eventually around 8k or so for me. With JB cold weld, it has held up for the past 50k with no sign of getting loose. I actually ran scales when I first got it and I had the worst time keeping those tight. I did use a industrial grade metal super glue to try to keep them from moving but it lasted 1 match. Those grips were too small for me anyway and switched to glue and grit factory wood grips and they have been much much better but still come loose after a while. Maybe its just operator error? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazhi Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 A lot is personal preference basd on hand sizes. Wood/plastic ones do last longer than metals before loosening up. Before SSI I had home-made resin-cast grips and they last at least 5-8k with only blue loctite on the screws. Ultimately the design is the root cause - they should have put 2 screws on each panel. I actually ran scales when I first got it and I had the worst time keeping those tight. I did use a industrial grade metal super glue to try to keep them from moving but it lasted 1 match. Those grips were too small for me anyway and switched to glue and grit factory wood grips and they have been much much better but still come loose after a while. Maybe its just operator error? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avenida Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 (edited) On 10/11/2018 at 9:07 AM, ninjaboot said: I actually ran scales when I first got it and I had the worst time keeping those tight. I did use a industrial grade metal super glue to try to keep them from moving but it lasted 1 match. Those grips were too small for me anyway and switched to glue and grit factory wood grips and they have been much much better but still come loose after a while. Maybe its just operator error? Lol It is my understanding that loctite works by shear stress. It makes the actual part thicker and therefore causing pressure and keeping it in place. I have 2 different guns, my grips never came loose. I learnt this from another shooter. You do not install the loctite and then install the screw right away, if you do, it will not last because the loctite came out as you were screwing and you will find the loctite under your grips next time you disassemble your gun. The way I do it is I pour it on a piece of paper, then I roll the screws on it. You do not need a lot, just a couple of threads wet of locite, then, install the screw , screw in all the way and remove, do this without the grips and use just your fingertips NO TOOLS YET! , make sure the screw runs straight and without any force and if it does STOP, the screw is not aligned and you are F.... up your screw or your frame. On the second run, I also run the screw on loctite and then I install firmly. Do not go too tight, you will strip the screw or worse ruin your frame! just use 3 fingers and fingertips to tighten with a short screw driver (SHORT IS KEY as it will provide less leverage for your palm and therefore less torque, that gives enough pressure to tighten without gorilla force... Every time you are doing this task you are making your screw hole bigger so the less you do it (with or without loctite), the better. Once the loctite dries up it becomes solid (plastic) and it can be melted with a certain temp. Blue requires less than red to melt. I never needed to do this as they come off rather easy when I need it. Edited October 24, 2018 by Avenida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaboot Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Ive never let the loctite dry before. I do let it sit for a minute or 2 before installing. Ill have to give that a try if they come loose next time. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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