Pro rear sight

[Bench]

Are the scale markings on the forward end of the rear sight of any statistical significance (ie. MOA) or are they simply reference markings for windage adjustments?

[Dave C]

Without anything to back up my claim, they are reference markings for windage adjustments.

Edited October 3, 2018 by Dave C

[Bench]

52 minutes ago, Dave C said:

Without anything to back up my claim, they are reference markings for windage adjustments.

Thanks, that was kind of my guess since the markings are machined/stamped in and most likely not precise enough to have any significance statistically down to MOA.

[mpom]

FWIW, I ran a thin line of white paint, some of it on on front of rear sight which continued on top of slide, so if rear sight is moved right or left, the line becomes discontinuous, to confirm rear sight movement and give a very rough estimate of how much it moved. Then used depth gauge on digital calipers to get more precise measurement of movement, measuring from side of rear sight to side of slide just below it.

[Bench]

4 hours ago, mpom said:

Then used depth gauge on digital calipers to get more precise measurement of movement, measuring from side of rear sight to side of slide just below it.

Between marking the scale and a reference mark on the slide and with your suggestion of the caliper measurements I should be able to get back fairly close to the original placement. The rear sight is coming off to be able to get to the striker block for some modification. Thanks.

[mpom]

[Dave C]

18 hours ago, Bench said:

Between marking the scale and a reference mark on the slide and with your suggestion of the caliper measurements I should be able to get back fairly close to the original placement. The rear sight is coming off to be able to get to the striker block for some modification. Thanks.

I have found that if you just center up the front sight and center up the rear sight, the gun will shoot pretty darn good.

Edited October 4, 2018 by Dave C

[Bench]

9 hours ago, Dave C said:

I have found that if you just center up the front sight and center up the rear sight, the gun will shoot pretty darn good.

Thanks again DC, but now at this point something else has popped up: I'm still trying to get the sight off...that is loosen the set screw...1/16" hex just rotates in the hole.

[MemphisMechanic]

Out of 12-15 sets of sights, I’ve only needed to make a very small windage adjustment to one Glock, Sig, or M&P that I’ve driven sights into with punch & hammer.

 

The M&P, like every handgun except a glock, also doesn’t give you any kind of square edge to consistently rest your calipers against. So eyeballing it is just as accurate - your eyes are remarkably good at making things symmetrical.

 

Edited October 4, 2018 by MemphisMechanic

[Bench]

1 minute ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I agree with him on centering the rear sight by eye; once you get the correct hex key, just be super picky in tapping it backand forth.

 

Out of 12-15 sets of sights, I’ve only needed to make a very small windage adjustment to one Glock / M&P / etc that I’ve driven sights into with punch & hammer.

Thanks for the confirmation on setting by eye...

 

ON the Apex website re. installing the "Ultimate Striker Block" it's stated that the sight can be removed with a 1/16" hex key but it just doesn't grab on the lands...I'm wondering if it got stripped at the factory. 2mm or 1.5mm don't work either. Calling S&W in the AM to verify that I'm using the correct size... though a local gunsmith for drilling out might just be quicker if in fact the set screw is 'screwed up".

 

Then I'll be able to work on the striker block and windage.

 

 

[MemphisMechanic]

I have a hundred or so small hex keys in a few sets; I never look at what size they’re supposed to be; I just find the right one.

 

If it’s stripped? Find a torx bit that’s slightly too big and drive it in with a hammer. Works great.

 

Then put a Dawson sight set on. No one should have to deal with the mediocre PRO sights anyway.

[SteelCityShooter]

How good is your 1/16" hex key?  Those get worn fast with any use, particularly cheap ones.  A new, good quality, sharp-cornered one may solve your problem

[Bench]

2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I have a hundred or so small hex keys in a few sets; I never look at what size they’re supposed to be; I just find the right one.

 

If it’s stripped? Find a torx bit that’s slightly too big and drive it in with a hammer. Works great.

 

Then put a Dawson sight set on. No one should have to deal with the mediocre PRO sights anyway.

LOL, I certainly don't have a hundred or so but I do have quite a few...and either too big, too small or won't grab in the lands. Torx sounds good!! I'll keep the Dawson's in mind once I have a few more 100's of rounds through this one. (Since we're on the subject what else should I do to this pistol besides Apex trigger, springs, & polishing?)

[Bench]

2 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:

How good is your 1/16" hex key?  Those get worn fast with any use, particularly cheap ones.  A new, good quality, sharp-cornered one may solve your problem

I tried new individual ones at the local hardware store and the same story, too big, too small, or in between wouldn't grab the lands.

[mpom]

Checked my Pro rear sight, 1/16" is the correct size, so PO probably rounded hex set screw. Yeah, MM's idea of a Torx jammed in good makes sense, but would heat set screw to break down thread locker by touching a soldering iron to it for a minute. Try a T-6 or 6.5.

BTW, rear sight is in a bag, as I replaced it with a Warren with cut away corners and U shaped notch.

Mark

Edited October 5, 2018 by mpom
Added to post

[Bench]

On 10/5/2018 at 11:02 AM, mpom said:

Checked my Pro rear sight, 1/16" is the correct size, so PO probably rounded hex set screw. Yeah, MM's idea of a Torx jammed in good makes sense, but would heat set screw to break down thread locker by touching a soldering iron to it for a minute. Try a T-6 or 6.5.

BTW, rear sight is in a bag, as I replaced it with a Warren with cut away corners and U shaped notch.

Mark

Hey, THANKS!!! I called S&W and I must have had the new trainee on the line...not much help at all...'take it to a local gunsmith or send it in'. I've had this gun for 1 week today(!!!). No offer of a replacement set screw, no big deal but not great customer service either. (Rant over).  I'm giving the JB Weld 1/16" hex to the stripped out set screw to see if that's going to work and then off to your suggestion (& MM) for the T6 or T6.5.

 

Edit: Success...but not with the JB Weld...T6 was too small, the hardware store didn't have a T6.5 but the T7 did the trick perfectly!!

Thanks all, I'm back at it again.

Edited October 6, 2018 by Bench

[mpom]

https://warrentactical.com/product/smith-and-wesson-mp-warren-tactical-plain-rear-sight/

Went with a plain black rear and FO Dawson front.

Mark

[MemphisMechanic]

@Bench glad you got the setscrew out. Told you the torx trick would work.  

 

@mpom Dawson and Warren make terrific sights for these guns. That’s a great choice. I also have Warren’s night sights on my the SHIELD that I carried before I switched to the Walther product line in a yellow rear & green front. Turns out Warren makes phenomenal carry sights too.

[Bench]

2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@Bench glad you got the setscrew out. Told you the torx trick would work.  

 

@mpom Dawson and Warren make terrific sights for these guns. That’s a great choice. I also have Warren’s night sights on my the SHIELD that I carried before I switched to the Walther product line in a yellow rear & green front. Turns out Warren makes phenomenal carry sights too.

Thanks MM, that JB Weld thing was a joke, and I didn't even need to hammer the torx in, just 'brute force and ignorance' and it snuck right out. THANKS.