Flipper! No...not The Dolphin! ;)

[Chris Keen]

I built The Flipper a couple days ago, in only 3-4 hours. It's really simple to construct:

Lower box (stand) made of:

2 - 18" 2x4's (short sides)

2 - 36" 2x4's (long sides)

2 - 18" uprights (braced) to support and pivot the moving box

Upper box made of:

1 - 18" 2x4 (short side)

1 - 18" 4x4 for counter balance reasons

2 - 24" 2x4's (long sides)

I used triangle shaped plywood pieces for an easy way to brace the uprights, and space the uprights far enough away (1/2") from the moving box so as to allow free movement. I also used some brass tubes hammered into the pivot holes of the upper box to cut down on the friction of the wood rubbing on the 1/4"x20 screws I used as cheap pivot points. I also had to make some limit stops out of 1x2's to keep the mover from slamming home and damaging itself.

It took a couple of days of tweaking to get it exactly right. That weight-distribution and center-of-gravity thing can be a real bitch to grasp at first. You have to keep in mind that the sticks AND the targets change the weight distribution. So do the LENGTH of the sticks, so dont go thinking you can use any length sticks without repercussions. Nothing major, but it will change the speed of the unit. I made mine 40" long. Its amazing how the measurements come together in the end. If you build everything else to my specs this comes out to 58" at the top of the sticks (18" upright + 40" stick = 58") This gives a nice height for the targets ...... not so high that the berms at most clubs wouldnt stop the bullets, and not so low that you end up shooting the ground and richocheting or WORSE .......... shooting my beloved Flipper!

I have to give a BIG THANK YOU to Daryl McPhail who gave me about 90% of the ideas for this mover as well as the idea for the 2" PVC tubes for counter balance weights. I think he suggested 4" tubes, but almost any size will work. Just buy 2 caps and glue 1 on, but not the other (at least until you get the weight right) and fill the thing with lead or brass from your range. Lead works the best, but depending on your situation (availabliltity of lead .... counter balance needs) brass cases might do the job. I then screwed some L brackets to the front and rear beams of the upper box, and I used velcro straps to secure the pipe (if so desired).

I now have complete flexmoney ...... err I mean flexibility of weight distribution and counter-balance needs. I can add or subtract lead from the pipes, and I can use or NOT use the velcro straps, which lets the target start down and GO UP then BACK DOWN if I dont use the strap, which makes the rear weight tube fall off. OR the target can start down then GO UP & STAY if the strap is used. I can have 2 targets requiring shooters to shoot 1 then activate the mover then shoot the other one (which means no Comstock make-ups on the 1st one ... hehe) or you can have a NO-SHOOT in the up position , and a shoot target which comes up then goes back down, and the no-shoot returns to the up postition. Now crowd this in with 3 or 4 other static targets and WOW ..... Confucius say #^#@* !

The wireless thing is really, really AWESOME. NO wires go down range. I have a touch-sensor which is normally used for card-access-control egress (touch to unlock door & exit) set up on a short pedestal with a 12 volt rechargeable battery powering it, with a small RF transmitter attached to the output of the sensor plate. Then in the small blue tool bag you see in the pics, I have another battery which powers a wireless receiver and the car-door lock solenoid! Nifty, huh !?!

I plan on having shooters begin shooting a small array of targets, then somewhere in the middle of the string of fire, touch the sensor to release the flipper, shoot the target which comes up before it disappears again, and continue the string of fire.

The idea of the using pressure mats is awesome and I think I will get one or two of them, but thats too easy, requiring little thought on the shooters part. The idea of making a shooter perform some voluntary action while shooting , like reaching out and touching a small plate, then return to the shooting can mess with your Mojo if you dont have your head screwed on properly. And we ALL have way too much Mojo, right ?

I love a challenge! Dont you ?

[herky]

Are we going to see this damn thing tomorrow? Way to much time on your hands, does look very interesting. Good job.

[Chris Keen]

NO ........ sorry

This was built to be an indoor-only thing for Sim Trainer.

I suppose it could be used outdoors, but I figure the Burg has enough difficult target types already ............ you dont want MORE do you ?

[lefty45]

Chris

we will make a special place for this in the set up for tomorrows match. You might want to add some protective steel for guys like me. bring it out tonight and we'll work it in (6PM).

it's always nice to see something new and exciting. I might have to agree with Herky though.

[herky]

As my friend, the revolver shooter, says "bring it on"! I can miss the difficult targets as easy as I do the all the others.