bigtimelarry Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 I just got my M&P put a FSS trigger and dawson sights, getting it ready for USPSA. I bought the SS guide rod and have been trying the ismi 13lb I've been getting some stovepipes. Can any competition shooters chime in on what they have been using. I dont have any problems when using american eagle 124gr but that stuff is too hot. My handloads are 124gr 4.1 TG and it stovepipes.. Any help i would appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 (edited) That is unusual. Every M&P I own (1.0 and 2.0) has been 100% reliable, even with 125PF loads and when limp-wristing. How many rounds do you have through the gun? It may just be a break-in issue. Did you verify reliability before changing all those parts? I assume you have a reasonably firm grip and are not inadvertently retarding the slide (such as with your thumb)? The early 1.0 guns had extraction and ejection issues which could be cured by installing the Apex Failure Resistant Extractor, but all my newer 1.0s have the regular factory extractor and run like a Swiss watch. If this is an otherwise stock gun (no porting or comp), then put the factory recoil spring back in - 13lb is unnecessarily light. Inspect your extractor and ejector to make sure there is no obvious evidence of damage. Before doing anything else, investigate your reloads - no offense, but even experienced reloaders can have problems. Try to find some lower-power factory ammo (chrono to compare PF) and run that. If the gun won't function with light factory loads, send it back to S&W and make use of the factory warranty - just remember to put the factory trigger and recoil spring back in first or you may lose them. I just ordered the same pistol. When it arrives I will try some light loads and see if I encounter the same issues. Good luck. Edited August 25, 2018 by StealthyBlagga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 What recoil spring are you using ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 In my 5” 1.0 Pros I run 15lb ISMI springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelCityShooter Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 I also have a 5" M&P 2.0 FDE and with the stock recoil spring (16 pound IIRC) it functions perfectly with my loads of 125 gr RN coated Blue Bullet using 4.0 gr of Titegroup or 4.0 gr of Alliant Sport Pistol with pf's in the mid 130's. I have an Apex DCEK sear and USB in the gun but it functioned just as well before the change. I wonder if you went the wrong way by using a too light recoil spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 my 2.0 is the same way. I need at least 132pf to get it to function, with a tungsten guide rod, and 13# spring. I just picked up a 12#, but haven't got a chance to do any testing yet. With the stock recoil spring assembly, in my 1.0, I can go down to 105 pf, if I put that upper on 2.0 lower, it needs at least 132pf to function. I'm thinking that there's more friction, with the longer rails, and just needs to be shot, a LOT, to get everything smoothed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbgeek Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 My 2.0 5" is stock. I've run wwb 115, blazer brass 124, freedom munitions 115, and the competition 130 pf loads from AA in 124 and 147, and recently tried the American Eagle Syntec Action Pistol 150 gr. All cycled fine with stock everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) OP: Sound like the recoil spring weight being too light could be the issue. I can believe that - the slide velocity would be higher and so maybe the case just can't get out the way fast enough or the changed ejection trajectory causes it to bounce back into the ejection port. This would be an easy thing to confirm - just put the OEM spring back in and see what happens. Please post your findings here so we can all learn from your experience. Edited August 27, 2018 by StealthyBlagga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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