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Czechmate trigger


Firefight5243

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7 hours ago, selecw said:

 

Nice. Does it do anything for the length of the reset?

 

Angus schooled me on this point recently, the let off (rearward travel) is reduced by the shorter hooks, but the reset remains unchanged as the place where the sear rests when cocked is the same.  Although you can reduce the reset with modification of the trigger bar and/or the sear.

 

 

Edited by kneelingatlas
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39 minutes ago, CzViper said:

Care to elaborate?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Break and reset because of the swing of the czechmate vs the back and forth of the 2011. 

 

One I messed with had a 14oz trigger and less then 1/8” total trigger movement. 

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One I messed with had a 14oz trigger and less then 1/8” total trigger movement. 


Gotcha.
Whoa, guess the ones I shot weren't great examples. I always thought my Czechmate was better than most 1911/2011 but nothing like that!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, CzViper said:


 

 


Gotcha.
Whoa, guess the ones I shot weren't great examples. I always thought my Czechmate was better than most 1911/2011 but nothing like that!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

 

Watching them shoot they can almost bump fire it. Not needing it that light but less movement would be nice. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You might want to change to a short reach trigger. I installed two with great results. They might adjust some of the geometry to get rid of that play. Hard to find in states but get ahold of Milos at Armory Craft. He might have one.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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On 8/26/2018 at 1:16 AM, CzViper said:


 

 


Gotcha.
Whoa, guess the ones I shot weren't great examples. I always thought my Czechmate was better than most 1911/2011 but nothing like that!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

 

 

On 8/26/2018 at 12:57 AM, Firefight5243 said:

Break and reset because of the swing of the czechmate vs the back and forth of the 2011. 

 

One I messed with had a 14oz trigger and less then 1/8” total trigger movement. 

?

my tso has less than 17 oz trigger and 2.4 mm travel~0.1"     17x0.1" =1.7 ~ 14x1/8"  ? almost the same.

few days ago saw 2011 with 14oz trigger and 0.04"-1mm. travel that works.

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On 8/25/2018 at 9:57 PM, Firefight5243 said:

Watching them shoot they can almost bump fire it.

One of my  squad mates had issues with his 2011 doubling because it was bump firing off the reset, fairly regularly.  Got so bad that he pulled out his Glock G35 for several matches until he could get the 2011's reset adjusted to prevent this.

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21 minutes ago, muncie21 said:

One of my  squad mates had issues with his 2011 doubling because it was bump firing off the reset, fairly regularly.  Got so bad that he pulled out his Glock G35 for several matches until he could get the 2011's reset adjusted to prevent this.

cz trigger system it's modern design . 1911 trigger sys. designed 120 y. ago to work with 4-5 lb trigger and not 1 lb.almost nothing changed in 1911.

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Thanks KA, will put it in on next major cleaning.

 

Did anyone try the aluminium straight trigger?

 

I understand the Czechmate trigger is plastic on purpose, to reduce play on the pin due to its springy nature.

I’m wondering if the difference is noticable.

Edited by GhostDog
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Al straight trigger is very nice imo. Seems to get rid of the "play" everyone is talking about.
It moved the trigger position rearward which gave me better placement for my finger.
The front surface was too slippery for my taste but put a small piece of skate tape on it and love the feel.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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  • 4 months later...

So, I tore down my Czechmate and happened to have a spare CGW Floating Trigger Pin for my S2 so I decided to use it on the CM.  Well today, I went back to CGW to buy an S2 extended safety for my CM and I noticed that they have a specific Floating Trigger Pin for the TS/TSO (which I would assume is also for the CM).

 Does anyone know what the difference is between the two?

 

I've had 'the wrong one' in for about 500+ rounds of live fire without issue.  Should I change it out?  I don't know if I still have the factory pin or not.  I might have bagged it and put it with my spares.

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So, I tore down my Czechmate and happened to have a spare CGW Floating Trigger Pin for my S2 so I decided to use it on the CM.  Well today, I went back to CGW to buy an S2 extended safety for my CM and I noticed that they have a specific Floating Trigger Pin for the TS/TSO (which I would assume is also for the CM).Does anyone know what the difference is between the two?

 

 

I struggled with the floating pin design for my TSO. I didn't see the advantage. Now, If I remember correctly...

 

I think the floating pin works best when the pin goes through the frame, then the trigger and spring, then the trigger bar, then the other side of trigger, then onto the frame.

 

For my TSO, the floating pin just goes through the frame, into the trigger bar, and then out to the frame. The trigger itself is mounted to the trigger bar with its own pin and spring. I didn't need the slave pin for the TSO application since the floating pin didn't go through the spring.

 

I haven't taken the pin back out since it neither increased nor decreased my trigger pull #, but I'm still wondering why I bought it.

 

 

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

I struggled with the floating pin design for my TSO. I didn't see the advantage. Now, If I remember correctly...

 

I think the floating pin works best when the pin goes through the frame, then the trigger and spring, then the trigger bar, then the other side of trigger, then onto the frame.

 

For my TSO, the floating pin just goes through the frame, into the trigger bar, and then out to the frame. The trigger itself is mounted to the trigger bar with its own pin and spring. I didn't need the slave pin for the TSO application since the floating pin didn't go through the spring.

 

I haven't taken the pin back out since it neither increased nor decreased my trigger pull #, but I'm still wondering why I bought it.

 

 

Thanks.  Honestly, the only reason I did it was to make it easier to remove the trigger assembly when I want to do a thorough cleaning (usually twice/year).  I always end up beating the crap out of the roll pins. 

 

And I can do you one better, in my haste to get the new safety, I also threw the TSO specific trigger pin into my cart and bought it...only to find out it's the exact same pin that I'm already using.  So $20 wasted. 

Edited by clw42
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  • 2 months later...

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