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PhillySoldier

Dillon Case Feeder Capacity

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On 8/9/2018 at 11:01 AM, PhillySoldier said:

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

 

5 inch lb?  That's like finger tight.

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2 hours ago, 340Weatherby said:

 

Well, to put it simple I did it this way, Because I can!

😂

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I'm not an electrical engineer, but it would seem that you should be able to have a switch or sensor on the bottom that tuns it on when low with the use of a relay. And one on top that turns it off when full?? Can someone comment on a simpler way to accomplish this.  Thanks, JD

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I am also not an electrical engineer, but I think when a new piece of brass passes the top switch or sensor it would trip the relay. 

 

Can someone point us (me) to a variable timer (1-100? second) that can be started by a switch (mounted near the bottom of the tube) that would power the feeder.  Idea is that the bottom switch trips and start the timer to run the feeder.  You would set the timer for the shortest duration it takes to fill the tube.  You would also bypass the top switch, so you are not cycling the motor.  Thanks,  HG

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22 hours ago, hmg1 said:

I am also not an electrical engineer, but I think when a new piece of brass passes the top switch or sensor it would trip the relay. 

 

Can someone point us (me) to a variable timer (1-100? second) that can be started by a switch (mounted near the bottom of the tube) that would power the feeder.  Idea is that the bottom switch trips and start the timer to run the feeder.  You would set the timer for the shortest duration it takes to fill the tube.  You would also bypass the top switch, so you are not cycling the motor.  Thanks,  HG

 

Yes, the problem will be that every case falling down the tube will trip the switch. As you state a timer will be a solution to do this a simple way. That's why the Arduino makes it so smooth. The coding will make the system fill the tube all time even if I change caliber.

 

Here is a manual way of doing it:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sw7d2fwG8hI

Edited by 340Weatherby

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Thanks, He has his set up that it cycles on and off.  My idea is that it would only go on when the micro switch is tripped at the lower part of the tube (no brass). Should I be looking at timing relays or ?????  I do not know how to code the Arduino so it is not an option, but it does look nice.  

Thanks HG

 

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You can use a micro switch at the bottom, and a timer relay that will run for as long as you state. Actually you should find a relay that has DC input and AC output.

Like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-To-30V-DC-250V-AC-0-60S-Delay-Timer-Switch-Adjustable-NE555-Relay-Module/202512350212

Instead of getting a hard time adjusting the microswitch I would have used a inductive sensor. (Ring sensor)

But instead of NO "Normally Open" you need a sensor that's NC "Normally Closed"

NO = No output voltage when no signal. (No metal in front of sensor)

NC = Output voltage when no signal. (will send signal to relay when no metal is in front of sensor)

Actually the micro switch must also be NC so it will send a signal when there is no brass. (Most has both options on the legs)

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Inductive sensors and an Arduino programmable circuit is an elegant solution, no doubt, assuming repeated starting and stopping of the motor is a problem.  But, a replacement motor (if/when it fails) is a whopping $67.95 from Dillon.  Not sure of the economics of spending $80 plus several hours of time on a circuit in hopes of prolonging the motor life - unless you just plain enjoy the accomplishment of a project like this, which a lot of people do!  I bought my press used from a commercial re-loader so my guess is that the case feeder has 10's of thousands of rounds through it and it's still going strong (knock wood!).  I don't mind the noise of a case feeding every time I pull the handle, there's enough other stuff going on that the case feeder is just another "instrument" in the musical score of this fantastic machine!

Edited by mvmojo

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Posted (edited)

It works great!! 340Weatherby sent me the Arduino and all of the wires along with a complete set of instructions on how to wire it. And it is up and running and working great. I am loading 9mm so I get about 22 case with each fill of the tube. I have it on a 1050 with a bullet feeder so there is still quite a bit of noise. From the bullet feeder. It was a fun project considering Lars is in Norway and I am in Florida. JD

 

P1010268.JPG.f4c82ae20e133d79f9b530559734253f.JPGP1010273.JPG.61d03ecfc8990ed9891dccabada1ba0f.JPG

Edited by JDIllon
add picture

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Posted (edited)

Could even use the same system on the bullet feeder...

 

Sure the dimensions is not similar?, and you can't get it working on the steel tube. (You must have top sensor on the cone before the steel tube)

But, it's just a matter of different dimensions on the sensors. (if needed)

Edited by 340Weatherby

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Yep! all of those things will work just fine, except you still have to watch what is going on with the case feeder to make sure you have it timed right or step on the switch to fill the tube!! I have been using Lars (340Weatherby) system for 9 months now and it works perfectly. So as the saying goes, what ever floats your boat!!! This system doesn't require any planning or effort to work. Works great!!  JD

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So how does one get the components etc. to effect the elegant solution provided by 340Weatherby? I do not process the brain power to figure the process out on my own. Most certainly not the programming of logic controller. I truly believe there is a great business plan in this solution. 

Thanks fo any help.

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Get in touch with Lars, he can walk you through it. JD 

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How I would do it;

I would use a latching relay, which has two positions,  you provide a signal to switch it on, and another signal to switch it off.

At the bottom of the tube, you have a normally closed switch, so when the tube is full, it is off, and when the tube runs dry, it is on. This signal will be used to trigger the latching relay to turn ON and thus runs the case feeder.
At the top of the feed tube, I'd add another switch below the original switch and wire them in series. So both of the switches must be depressed  to pass current. If a case is just passing by, it won't trigger this, if the tube fills up however, both top switches will be on. This is the signal that will be used to trigger the latching relay to turn OFF.

If you want, move your double switch lower than the original switch and use the original as an anti-overflow backup.

When you start up the feeder, the state may be undetermined, but maybe powering up the switches will allow the empty switch to turn on the feeder if it's empty. The bad scenario would be if the stack were full and the latch is pulled to the on position. Both of these situations is not "fatal", you just have to turn off your feeder with the main switch until the level of the brass in the tube lowers a bit so that the off signal can be hit.

This might cost $10-$20 and requires no programming.

 

The constant feed only bugs me if I'm listening to a podcast or audiobook if I'm reloading, but nothing some headphones won't fix.


 

Edited by Vincerama

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