Dillon Case Feeder Capacity

[PhillySoldier]

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

[jhgtyre]

7 hours ago, PhillySoldier said:

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

Good point.  I experienced pretty much the same results before and after tightening the clutch.  It's also a good idea to clean the bowl and plate off every once in awhile.  Gummy isn't conducive to smooth functioning.

[PhillySoldier]

I agree about keeping clean. Also I have installed the crud catcher as well as drilled out the drain holes a little larger to drop through any debris that might get under the plate. 

Edited August 9, 2018 by PhillySoldier

[stick]

7 hours ago, PhillySoldier said:

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

Good to know!  I need to tighten mine.  I don't get anywhere near 800 rounds in mine.

[Foxbat]

I have five case feeders, and those that are on the presses are basically totally trouble-free.  I guess I put 400-500 cases in at a time.

 

They run at slow speed and I never have to clean them, I torqued the clutch or two long, long time ago.

 

It is the one that runs on the Case Pro is the problem - it is simply unable to keep up with the machine demand.  It has to run at High speed, and it is not capable of doing it continuously.

[PhillySoldier]

I wish there was an aftermarket part for both the case and bullet feeders that let it drop like a 10-20 at a time instead of running w every darn press pull.

 

Im no electronics genius but to me would a change from one switch to two. One at the bottom to start when its empty and the current one at the top to stop when filled

Edited August 9, 2018 by PhillySoldier

[jdk129]

I have never had a problem with my case feeder and I use it for 9mm, .40S&W, and .45ACP.  I will have to take a look at tightening the clutch, as I have never done more than clean out the hopper and the plate over the years.

 

v/r,
Jeff

[JDIllon]

On 8/9/2018 at 7:50 PM, PhillySoldier said:

I wish there was an aftermarket part for both the case and bullet feeders that let it drop like a 10-20 at a time instead of running w every darn press pull.

 

Im no electronics genius but to me would a change from one switch to two. One at the bottom to start when its empty and the current one at the top to stop when filled

Is that a simple added switch and some wires?? I'm not that good at wiring and switches but it seems that it could be done fairly easy?  I would really like to do that to mine. It a pain, that thing running on every pull.  Come on guys, some one figure it out and give us a solution.  JD

[Foxbat]

It is quite a bit more complicated than just another switch.  It requires some logic circuit, either hard wired, or programmed.

[JDIllon]

3 hours ago, Foxbat said:

It is quite a bit more complicated than just another switch.  It requires some logic circuit, either hard wired, or programmed.

What about some kind of a time delay before it starts to fill the tube? Is there something available like that and would it be more cost effective?  Just wondering.  JD

[Foxbat]

No, not quite.  A simple time delay will miss.

[Smithcity]

On 8/9/2018 at 10:01 AM, PhillySoldier said:

I used to have an issue with only being able to put 100-200 9mm casings in the case feeder at a time. Ive found that using a gauged torque wrench and setting it to 5 inch/pounds and using that to tighten the clutch seems to work perfect . I can press down on the plate and cause the clutch to slip like its supposed to and can now put up to 800 9mm casings in it at time. Figured I would post it in case it helps anyone else

I'm in the same boat. Tightened the clutch and I run 800 rounds of 9mm regularly without issue.

[JDIllon]

I just got a 1050 used and mine runs OK but I don't have any instructions, I'm sure I can get them on line. But let me ask, where is the clutch adjustment?  Thanks, JD

[Foxbat]

Two Allen head screws in the middle of the round plastic disc. 

[340Weatherby]

On 8/10/2018 at 1:50 AM, PhillySoldier said:

I wish there was an aftermarket part for both the case and bullet feeders that let it drop like a 10-20 at a time instead of running w every darn press pull.

 

Im no electronics genius but to me would a change from one switch to two. One at the bottom to start when its empty and the current one at the top to stop when filled

Yes, I have such a system. First I removed the micro switch and the low speed system on the switch.(Low speed is just a very big resistor) Using an Arduino, a SSR Relay and two inductive sensors the case feeder will start when the tube is empty. When it's full, the feeder will stop, waiting for it to get empty again. I got it all tucked away inside the housing of the case feeder. (Except the inductive sensors that are attached to the droptube) Makes my day since the all time start and stop drove me crazy. If you take a closer look on the micro switch arm, the motor actually stops and starts again for every case dropping into the tube. Just look on the case feeder plate and you will notice. That's not a good way of doing it if you want the motor to last...

[PhillySoldier]

Set up shop, ill buy in

[JDIllon]

Or can you post a diagram of the setup and where to get the stuff and how to do it?? Cost? Is it complicated to do??  Thanks, JD

[340Weatherby]

First, you need to do some wiring on the 110V/230V system. Then code an Arduino using a PC and wire up the sensors to get it working. To me it's not complicated but you need some technical insight. Playing with 110V/230V is not good if you do any mistakes. Besides that, the rest is simple to do. (I think)

For cost eBay is your friend. You will need the following:

A 12v DC power supply. To drive the sensors and the Arduino

2 inductive sensors. (I use ring sensors, so I can slide them outside the tube.)

1 Solid State Relay DC/AC version.

1 Aduino Uno + a long USB cable. (So you can update the Arduino code if needed)

1 resistor, and some wiring and tape.

1 screw terminal

 

Cost, not sure but maybe I have used about $ 80 or so. Biggest cost is the sensors.

 

I'm off for a couple of days, but I will see if I can post some video later of this.

Edited January 27, 2019 by 340Weatherby

[340Weatherby]

Here is a pic how I mounted the Arduino, with the relay inside the case feeder.

 

[340Weatherby]

The inductive ring sensors:

 

[340Weatherby]

The removed cable from the feeder.

 

[muncie21]

Why not run an optical sensor at the bottom of the feed tube, to act as the 'low' sensor and keep the existing mechanical switch for the high sensor.  You'd need to rewire the existing mechanical sensor, however I don't see a need for any type of logic, beyond relays. 

 

Low sensor triggers and trips a relay that closes a circuit that engages the motor.  Once the tube is full the cases trip the high sensor which removes the ground/power from one leg of the relay.

Edited January 30, 2019 by muncie21

[jhgtyre]

On 1/27/2019 at 3:35 PM, 340Weatherby said:

First, you need to do some wiring on the 110V/230V system. Then code an Arduino using a PC and wire up the sensors to get it working. To me it's not complicated but you need some technical insight.

No, first I need to Google "Arduino"!  It sounds like something you might order at one of those fancy coffee shops, "I'll have a Vente Arduino two creams, hold the sugar".

[hmg1]

I also played with this.  I got out my old darkroom timer, and plugged in the brass feeder instead of the enlarger. Set the timer for how many seconds you want it on, and pushed the button when the brass got to my low point.  If it went to long, no problem, the micro switch on top just acted like it normally does.  If time was not enough, tube was not filled up to the top, no big deal. My idea was to put a second micro switch on the feed tube at the low level to replace the push button.  When I opened up the timer, the button is mounted to the circuit board, so I stopped at that point.  Do they make an adjustable time relay that we could replace the timer with?

 

[340Weatherby]

7 hours ago, jhgtyre said:

No, first I need to Google "Arduino"!  It sounds like something you might order at one of those fancy coffee shops, "I'll have a Vente Arduino two creams, hold the sugar".

 

Well, to put it simple I did it this way, Because I can!