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Glock shooters, do you leave the trigger stock?


midvalleyshooter

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Nope! Vanek drop in, jager lighted, extended and tuned striker, and 4lb striker spring. Smooth and crisp with a short reset. Adding the striker took it from really good to fantastic.


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Vanek drop in for me as well on competition gun.   On my defensive pistols I usually run the parts in corn cob tumbler for a day or two.   Puts a nice polish on them.  I also use Oem 3.5 disconnector.   

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https://i.imgur.com/Nx3GJjj.jpg?1[/img]

 

Wolff springs came in. Replaced each spring then measured trigger pull with an average of ten pulls. This was with the OEM 4 1/2 pound connector:

 

Trigger spring replaced--> 5 lb 1 oz

Safety plunger spring replaced--> 4 lb 10 oz

Striker spring replaced ( 4 1/2 lb)--> 3 lb 6 oz

 

Next up polishing.

Edited by midvalleyshooter
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I have JohnnyGlock Competition trigger set up with an Apex flat face trigger on both my competition G17s. By far best that I have tried. He works with you to set it up just the way

you want it. Mine are as advertised:

  • PRE-TRAVEL- Zero*
  • WALL FEEL- Defined
  • BREAK FEEL-Glass Rod
  • BREAK WEIGHT- 2.2-3.2lbs
  • OVER-TRAVEL- Zero
  • RESET- Short, Quick, Tactile, and Aggressive
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I've used a Johnny glock trigger but I recently switched back to the stock trigger with a plus connector. Just put 15k through the gun and the trigger will be fine

You don’t see people switch back to stock often after they invest in a nice competition trigger. Were you having reliability issues?


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3 hours ago, MJinPA said:


You don’t see people switch back to stock often after they invest in a nice competition trigger. Were you having reliability issues?


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Ya I was actually. Trigger would freeze up and not drop the firing pin. Johnny is great and I could call him anytime to fix it. It started happening the day before a major match so I just switched back and liked it.

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Ya I was actually. Trigger would freeze up and not drop the firing pin. Johnny is great and I could call him anytime to fix it. It started happening the day before a major match so I just switched back and liked it.

Glocks work great until you start messing with perfection [emoji16] I’ve been luck but you can’t beat the reliability of the stock parts!


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1 minute ago, MJinPA said:


Glocks work great until you start messing with perfection emoji16.png I’ve been luck but you can’t beat the reliability of the stock parts!


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exactly my thoughts. But honestly I think his trigger is the best aftermarket out there I just didn't have it tuned right. I also put about 10k through it before I had any problems. Of course springs etc need to be changed at that point

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  • 4 weeks later...

I am running a TTI spring and connector kit.  I had a ghost connector and lone wolff springs previously but like the TTI better, it seems a lot smoother and the reset is a little shorter.  I will say that the biggest improvement in trigger pull for mine was a titanium safety plunger and spring.  

 

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I have average palms and short fingers, so on my gen 3 I was always fighting the trigger/safety.  I got a Johnny Glock competition kit and used the trigger (with the over travel screw backed out) the included striker safety plunger and spring (-3 coils as recommended) and a Zev light Stiker and a 3lb spring from the glock store for a 2 3/4 lb trigger.  What I did really like was the pre-travel screw.  It set the trigger at a much easier spot to hit.

On my gen 4 I left the trigger assembly alone, used the stock connector (3.5) and all of the same striker parts above with a competition striker block/spring for a 2 1/2 lb trigger.  But on the gen 4 and 5 I can reach the stock trigger fine.  It just benefits from a little smoothing of the safety.

Edited by pskys2
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A well worn factory Glock trigger doesn't feel too bad once 1k+ rounds smooth it out. You can of course accelerate this process with a number of aftermarket parts, or by polishing.

 

I like the TTI grand master kit best so far.

Edited by MPF
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  • 5 weeks later...

I prefer the OEM "-" connector in my guns. Most important thing I want for my Glocks in competition is for them to work every time. I've seen far too many aftermarket parts in the guns that don't work reliably. 

 

I realize I'm in the minority, but its worked well for me. Learning to control the trigger and shoot the gun right has been better than any add on part or trigger job

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9 hours ago, tact said:

I used to run a variety of aftermarket triggers and have since gone full circle back to just leaving it alone. If one just dry fires and shoot the thing it smooths out just fine.

 

You can dry fire forever and your trigger will never be as good as a quality aftermarket trigger such as Johnny Glocks, DK, Vanek etc.

 

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I’ve shot both the Vogel competition trigger kit and the dk trigger kit in my Glock 35. I like both but like the DK a little better because you can adjust pre travel. I run both of them with a 5# striker spring and have no problem lighting any primers off. 

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I put a zev connector and spring kit (didn't install the light striker spring) then I added a lone wolf ultimate trigger housing because it has an overtravel stop and I was happy with the results. Did a little polishing because I was bored.  

  

I don't see any reason to spend $150+ on a fancy Glock trigger. 

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I just use the OEM minus connector and 6# trigger spring. That alone makes a big difference and only costs about $20-25. Also 100% reliable. I am not an expert in this game, but like to shoot a few matches to improve overall gun handling skills for work as a LEO. I tried some of the expensive drop ins, but found I like to feel the positive reset of the Glock trigger and am used to shooting stock gen 3 for work so with minor mods I see a big difference. 

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I tried some aftermarket triggers early on but I found out that I shoot light triggers slower. After I put some work into my grip I can shoot the stock trigger on my 34 just as accurate as the lighter aftermarket triggers.


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