650 - shell plate vibration when the shaft moves up

[Dazhi]

Has anyone noticed the loud click while the main shaft moves up?  I assume that's when the reset happens.  With the click the shell plate will vibrate.  This vibration is causing powders to be spilled sometimes, and brass in station 1 to move outwards resulting in crushed brass into the sizing die. 

 

Is there any after market solutions to reduce/eliminate this "click" vibration?  Thanks.

[Youngeyes]

There are many answers to that question. Here's a couple of videos. Search on this Forum for many other answers. No endorsement is made on the effectiveness of any non Dillon products. YMMV

 

 

[Sarge]

Put a bearing on it and tighten the plate pretty snug. Problem solved

[chevrofreak]

It is from the shellplate rotation cam (not using Dillon technical terms here) resetting.  At that particular point in the cycle you can slow down and it wont be as big of an issue.  The addition of a shellplate bearing kit helps quite a bit. 

[Dazhi]

Is the shellplate bearing kit the one with a plastic ball?  I have had it for years just did not think of it can solve this particular problem.  It's not the forward rotation causing issues.

[chevrofreak]

2 hours ago, Dazhi said:

Is the shellplate bearing kit the one with a plastic ball?  I have had it for years just did not think of it can solve this particular problem.  It's not the forward rotation causing issues.

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/170349-dillon-650-upgrades/?do=findComment&comment=1899431

[OptimiStick]

Yeah. I think this was my problem too I posted in another thread about the Lee U-Die catching in station 1, causing case feeder to drop a case a tad early and sometimes bounce out of alignment. I have the bearing with plastic ball kit, and it mostly cleaned up the powder spill issue - but I still got the 'click' and a bit of a shellplate snap once the indexing pawl was on it's way up. It was bouncing my case out of the station 1 shellplate just a tiny tiny bit - enough so that it caught the corner of the 'less than generous' opening of the u-die. Did not have the problem with the wide mouth of the Dillon sizing die. So I've tightened down further, looks like the cases are staying put in station 1. It still isn't aligned completely true in station 1 to the sizing die, but without the little bounceback (and we are talking a tiny bit of bounceback) - the case goes into the die about 1/4" or so into sizing die before it gets 'corrected' by the sizing die. That should be enough to avoid the slight hitch in the stroke that was causing the case dropped from the case-feeder to sometimes bounce out of alignment with the body bushing. Looks good in testing anwyway, I'll run a batch tonight and report back. I sure hope that's it. Annoying to be cruising along, get a stoppage and have to poke the waiting case back in alignment with the body bushing. If there's a way to delay the case being dropped from the case-feeder until I'm further down in the stroke, so the case in the sizing die is further up - that would solve it too. But it looks like my only alignment there is flipping the case-insert cam between rifle and pistol?

[ChemistShooter]

People keep talking about the "plate rotating too hard," but in my experience I don't think that's what the problem is.

 

Here is my take.

 

1. As it comes from the factory, the Dillon shellplate has a little up-and-down wobble to it. You can put your fingers on either side of the plate and wobble it up and down.

 

2. Underneath the shellplate there is quite a powerful little spring with a hard steel ball in it. On the bottom of the shell plate there are four holes that ball fits into, the purpose being to lock the shell plate in exactly the right position after every ram stroke.

 

When you cycle the handle, the ball slides smoothly out of the hole and additional tension is placed on the spring. When the next hole reaches the ball, the ball does NOT slide smoothly into the hole. Instead the ball snaps into position, HARD.

 

Which causes the already-wobbly shell plate to jump UP a little bit, which imparts an upward force to the powder----and a little bit of powder jumps out of the case and onto the shell plate.(I sorta suspect the wobbly shell plate is not an accident, but something designed to make the shell plate absorb the snap without kicking powder out. It ain't working.)

 

So all these shell plate kits do two things. One: They have a washer to reduce or eliminate the original wobble. Two: They have some way of reducing the spring snap, either by a weaker spring or a plastic ball which absorbs some of the impact (which means the ball will eventually deform to the point where it doesn't work anymore.), or both.

[Sarge]

5 minutes ago, ChemistShooter said:

People keep talking about the "plate rotating too hard," but in my experience I don't think that's what the problem is.

 

Here is my take.

 

1. As it comes from the factory, the Dillon shellplate has a little up-and-down wobble to it. You can put your fingers on either side of the plate and wobble it up and down.

 

2. Underneath the shellplate there is quite a powerful little spring with a hard steel ball in it. On the bottom of the shell plate there are four holes that ball fits into, the purpose being to lock the shell plate in exactly the right position after every ram stroke.

 

When you cycle the handle, the ball slides smoothly out of the hole and additional tension is placed on the spring. When the next hole reaches the ball, the ball does NOT slide smoothly into the hole. Instead the ball snaps into position, HARD.

 

Which causes the already-wobbly shell plate to jump UP a little bit, which imparts an upward force to the powder----and a little bit of powder jumps out of the case and onto the shell plate.(I sorta suspect the wobbly shell plate is not an accident, but something designed to make the shell plate absorb the snap without kicking powder out. It ain't working.)

 

So all these shell plate kits do two things. One: They have a washer to reduce or eliminate the original wobble. Two: They have some way of reducing the spring snap, either by a weaker spring or a plastic ball which absorbs some of the impact (which means the ball will eventually deform to the point where it doesn't work anymore.), or both.

Huh? The washer kits are not nearly as good as the bearing for the shell plate. The washer is supposed to be slick I guess but you can tighten a 650 shell plate so tight it will not even move let alone wobble. That's not what the washer is for. I use a bearing with one washer on top, none underneath the bearing. I also clipped a little off the spring under the ball. The bearing lets me tighten the shell plate so much it's actually hard to turn by hand. This friction overpowers the snap left in the ball. Adjusted just right with the bearing the plate just rides right into place with no snap at all.