AzShooter Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Go to .358 bullets and shoot a modest load of 2.8 - 3.0 grains of N320 and you will amaze yourself. You forcing cone needs to be cut by a professional unless you are familiar with the right tool. I had to buy two cutters from Brownells. The first one wouldn't cut and just wasn't sharp enough to work. The second one did a most excellent job. My groups were well under 2 inches at 25 yards and around 3- 4 at 50. This is testing with an old Weaver scope on a good sand bag rest. My OAL was 1.16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 6 hours ago, AzShooter said: You forcing cone needs to be cut by a professional unless you are familiar with the right tool. Why is that? The Brownells kit I rented with the piloted cutters is pretty much idiot proof. The only thing you could do wrong is remove too little or too much metal. 6 hours ago, AzShooter said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Yes, shoot it and see where you're at now. If it's shooting well, leave it. If it is spitting lead or leading up, or having some other problem, you may want to go some more. It's OK to go a little bit deeper than the plug gage, but not much. You will want to redo the muzzle crown and shoot for groups before doing any more on the forcing cone. The target is always the final judge on barrel fitness. Some barrels that look fine don't shoot well and some that have problems visually shoot fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogdoc1 Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 The plug gauges are for specific degrees(5 degree for example ). I find often the plug gauges are swallowed by the factory cuts.(factory cuts are often very deep.) I don’t think you can recut an existing cone all the way to rifling so that all the old cone is gone without being deeper than the brownells plug gauges. The only way I could cut with the plug gage was to set a barrel back. I do not think most worry about the plug gauges when they recut a new cone. You just want to make sure the old cone is cut away so you do not have a compound angle. There is a good write up on Ruger forum.net in the library section by a gunsmith on it and also a recent post in the gunsmithing section relating to this. Worth checking it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now