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Grip tape keeps coming off


polymerfeelsweirdman

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I have these Dawson type grip tape decals but they seem to keep sliding off when I death grip, does anyone have a better solution or better decal they know of? I'm trying to avoid the permanence of stippling but if I don't figure out a better solution I'm considering grit and glue which I guess is still sort of reversible. I think the problem is the heat this summer.

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I make my own out of 3M tape. They haven’t budged in a few years. In fact the tape has gotten smooth enough I need to replace it probably. 

 

Best I can say Is be diligent in your surface prep. Degrease degrease degrease and then degrease some more. And heat up the tape with a heat gun to make sure the glue completely activated.  

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I've used Talons, and Ben Stoeger ProShops, clean with alcohol very well a couple times, let dry, apply grip tape I hear it with a hair dryer so it conforms well and really squeeze on it. It may still shift a little over time, but never really moves on me.

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A zone grips. Are the best I've found.  

 

Though, I just put a set of talons on a buddy's q5 and so far they do seem like they work better than previous talons. Previously, every set of talons I've griped come off. I would tell people I'd see using them they can't be gripping hard enough if the talons we're still on. Then I'd grip their gun and ruin the talons.  I think they changed the adhesive or were taking about it.  A zones are the best. You can get them from Brownells

 

I get a clean tooth brush and scrub the grip with alcohol. Then, I use a hair dryer. Heat up the gun and the tape. Then heat after I stick it down. I do one side at a time. Then, I wrap the grip in para chord and then wrap that with an ace bandage. Leave it for 24 hrs. 

 

I'll be going to silcon carbide. 

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Silicon Carbide that sucker.

The only good option IMO.

 

None of the above suggestions work for me.  My support hand slide the gripe tape forward no matter what brand I use or how I apply it. 

 

I silicon carbided my CO gun, and couldn’t be happier. 

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4 minutes ago, 9x45 said:

Any grip applied with contact adhesive has to have the correct surface prep. That means a triple alcohol wipe and air dry.

 

I can prep for grip tape a million different ways... but it still slides forward under my support hand. 

 

Silicon carbide and JB FTW. 

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15 minutes ago, 9x45 said:

Any grip applied with contact adhesive has to have the correct surface prep. That means a triple alcohol wipe and air dry.

I've done this. 

 

You're not gripping hard enough. 

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I use a Hogue rubber grip sleeve.

 

The Glock Gen 3 grip is a little too small. I cannot get a Gen 4 in California to get the grip adapters unless willing to pay twice retail on the private sales market. 

 

The rubber grip sleeve may shift ever so slightly over time, but I just rotate or slide it back into place.

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The only downside to carbide is that it will fill up with debris, and once it get to the point that you cant clean it up enough to restore its bite it is a pain to rework. I have a few for my 2011s and when freshly done they feel great but over time not as much. The glue that Dawson sells will help hold the tape in place better than the adhesive backing alone.

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8 minutes ago, SWprotected said:

The only downside to carbide is that it will fill up with debris, and once it get to the point that you cant clean it up enough to restore its bite it is a pain to rework. I have a few for my 2011s and when freshly done they feel great but over time not as much. The glue that Dawson sells will help hold the tape in place better than the adhesive backing alone.

The tape does the same it needs to be replaced. 

 

How hard is it to get the old tape that's been glued down off?  Is the residual glue a pain to remove?

 

I'm going to go SC but just wondering?

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Like you, I've tried everything and they still move. I'm gonna strip mine back to the frame and try the grip spray that basketball players use. Hopefully this will work because I didn't really like the extra girth the tape added.

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The other key is application. It took me a few tries but I’ve found that totally encompassing the entire grip even over the depressions in the grip or a hump will cause issues with it staying in place and realistically doesn’t help anymore or less with obtaining friction and a good grip. Simply finding a good cut where contact with the tape aids enough to accomplish the goal works quite well. In essence sometimes less is more. I’ve had the same patch on for almost 8 months now.

 

 

 

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I really thought I got it right this time. I prepped it with alcohol (3 times. Even used a clean soft tooth brush to clean it the first time), used hair dryer, wrapped the grip for 24 hrs with para chord and ace bandage to help set it. Did two guns with two different kinds of tape (talon and A_zone).Took them out yesterday and destroyed both in minutes!  

 

I've ruined probably 10 different shooters grips in the past. 

 

If your using tape, and it's still on, you're not gripping hard enough! I'll take the Pepsi challenge any day and ruin your grip to show you!  Not trying to be macho, just saying. I don't think I have the strongest grip either. If your happy with your shooting then that's all that matters. 

 

 

Edited by B_RAD
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I've had pretty good luck by putting the seam, or the start of the griptape somewhere other than right where the most twisting pressure is going to be.  If I have the griptape starting pretty close to where the meat of my weak hand thumb is going to be clamping and twisting, then it almost always moves eventually, even with careful prep.  If I connect that section around the back to where my strong hand is clamping, it seems to hold better.  That being said, I probably shoot fewer matches and don't grip as hard as some.  Anyway, my point is that messing with the design pattern of the griptape, and where it starts and stops helped me a little, but it didn't solve it all together.

 

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My grip is fine and I have a pretty good understanding what constitutes a good grip. Since you have such a powerful grip tape destroying death grip you might not need to produce friction with texture applied over the entire grip or frame. If you do perhaps the carbide is your solution or go to town on that frame with a wood burner tip. The tape or skateboard tape that I use is basically for flat surfaces and won’t mold into what isn’t. So knowing that, I just simply apply it where it’ll be most effective on the areas it’ll be most effective.

 

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Just to add to the pile...  I use Talon Grips, and love them.  In 2  years, they haven't shifted a millimeter.  Like many said, be sure you clean the crap out of the application area with alcohol wipes.  The Talon Grip instructions said to set in place, use a hairdryer to heat it up, and then make sure it is where you want it.  If done right, it won't shift.

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