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Correct Way to Use Loc-Tite Thread Locking?


Frankly

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For years I’ve been squirting too large drops of Loc-Tite onto threads which is sloppy. Or squirting a few drops into a blob and rolling threaded parts through it. Maybe covering 50%, sometimes more. When I remove a part I’ll have to wire brush old dried compound off.

 

Whats the sophisticated Enos Expert way to do it right?

 

Secondarily, if I buy a little MagPul rail the bolts will have a thin dried year’s-old coating of thread locker pre-applied. Since it’s already dried on, isn’t it like the dirty parts before I labored to clean? If I just rescrew a bolt with old dried on Loc-Tite on it am I getting nearly the same benefit? Should I not bother cleaning old Loc-Tite off scope rings, etc.?

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It depends on which Loctite you use, they have a usage page on their website that explains the usage of the various products. I have a drawer full of various types and strengths. The pre applied (what you called the old dried up stuff), is activated by pressure. Cleaning the threads is good for maximum strength, but when using medium strength (blue) I just put the same screw back in and the pressure re-activates the stuff. Might even work with red, but I haven't experimented with that. They even have some red that doesn't require the bolt to be cleaned prior to usage, just put it on a greasy dirty bolt and it holds good. (isn't science amazing) There are all kinds of adhesives, even some that if you use it, it is a permanent bond. There is no disassembly possible. You have to use the proper product for the proper application. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/about/our-brands/loctite.html

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They even make primer for use on stainless and other materials that do not oxidize easily.

 

Loctite cures in the absence of oxygen. Carbon steel etc pulls the oxygen out of the compound and it sets up.

The primer has copper salts that do the same thing when used on stainless etc.

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Interesting info in this thread.  To cure the sloppiness problem, I usually apply it first to something like a toothpick or Q-tip and then apply it from this tool onto the screw.  Most people already know that Loc-Tite releases with heat, so I determine where I will apply it on the bolt based on where best to apply the heat if I ever need to release it.  For instance, if it's a very long bolt going into thick metal that will be difficult to heat down to the tip, it would be best to apply the Lok-Tite up near the head.

Edited by jkrispies
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2 hours ago, Broncman said:

Loctite cures in the absence of oxygen.

 

Maybe that is why some types do not cure at all if pressure is not sufficient. Used locktite red on a connection that I did not need super tight, just wanted things snug and aligned just so. Was surprised to find that it never set up. 

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7 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Maybe that is why some types do not cure at all if pressure is not sufficient. Used locktite red on a connection that I did not need super tight, just wanted things snug and aligned just so. Was surprised to find that it never set up. 

 

In that case I would have used 680 which is designed for use in loose joints.

 

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On 7/22/2018 at 3:13 PM, Davidp1911 said:

I clean contact surfaces thoroughly with rubbing alcohol before applying loctite

This is the main reason that Loctite fails for some users.  Failure to clean/de-grease the parts.  I usually apply with a highly specialized wooden gunsmithing tool aka toothpick.

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On 7/24/2018 at 1:54 PM, Tampa-XD45 said:

This is the main reason that Loctite fails for some users.  Failure to clean/de-grease the parts.  I usually apply with a highly specialized wooden gunsmithing tool aka toothpick.

Me too, I own a box full of those hi-tech tools

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