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Dillon super 1050 / Mark 7 Autodrive 9mm case lube

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I reloaded 9mm ammo on my Super 1050 manually and never lubed my brass. No Problems. When I added a Mark 7 1050  Pro to my press, I followed the instructions and started to lubricate brass before reloading. The press and drive run flawlessly and I really love it. However, getting the lube off the cases is a pain.

 

I tried tumbling finished rounds in corn cob media and ended up with media stuck in the hollow points of the bullets. Also tried processing lubed brass and then tumbling the sized, decapped and swaged cases in corn cob media to get the lube off. This resulted in media stuck in primer pockets and flash holes. Usually that's not a problem because the decapping punch knocks that stuff out when I'm loading. For the first time today, I broke a decapping punch on something stuck in a processed case. This method almost doubles the work.

 

Is it really necessary to lube 9mm brass for my machine with the drive? If so, what are others doing to get the lube off?

 

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I use one shot and I dont tumble it off. I use the same set up as you do as well. This is for my 9 major ammo and 40 major ammo.

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I use dillon or home made dillon lube and don't tumble it off either.  Rounds aren't sticky and feed fine in my open, co, and pcc.  

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I use lube with a autodrive also, but very light amount. I load and shoot 10 times more practice ammo and i don't bother to remove the lube. Can say over 100k rounds fired this way without issues. Any ammo i case gauge gets rolled in a towel as gauging it , that takes off some lube but i haven seen a difference either way .

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Same. Brass juice or One shot. Don’t worry about removing it. The Dillon lube is not necessary for pistol IMO. I use lots of Dillon lube for rifle. But I wet tumble after processing to get it off. Too sticky for me.


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 +1 for Dillon lube and one shot here and dont remove ...zero issues

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Thanks guys

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You really only need lanolin based lube with bottle neck cases where you are working the brass. For straight wall a hint of OneShot will do the trick and you'll never know it is there.

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You really only need lanolin based lube with bottle neck cases where you are working the brass. For straight wall a hint of OneShot will do the trick and you'll never know it is there.

Another long term light OneShot user on 9mm here. I have recently started loading 223 on my MkVII and found something a bit more substantial was needed as mcracco points out. I have been making my own lanolin based lube.

A quick roll in a folded terry cloth towel before boxing (or dumping in a zip-lock bag), removes most of the unwanted lube.

M

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I’ve loaded around 40k 9mm with no lube on the mark 7 and have no issues. Clutch on 3 and let it go. 

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this might sound like a drag, but when I got my Mk7 for my 1050 I started processing brass on it's own, then wet washing the lube off, drying, and then loading. That way I didn't have lube on the cases during loading. my ammo comes out looking like new, and no more dirty hands after shooting a few hundred. 

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Dry tumbling for 30 minutes after loading removes all that lube, and you don't have to run a case thru the loader twice...

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Add a couple of tablespoons of alcohol to the plain corncob media. Tumble for 10-15 minutes.  This removes the lube.

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this might sound like a drag, but when I got my Mk7 for my 1050 I started processing brass on it's own, then wet washing the lube off, drying, and then loading. That way I didn't have lube on the cases during loading. my ammo comes out looking like new, and no more dirty hands after shooting a few hundred. 

I do the same thing. I process all brass and keep the brass in a 5 Gallon Home Depot bucket with lid.


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One Shot tip: spray it generously into a tupperware plastic container, then dump your brass in. Stir it around to get lube on all the cases, and then dump them into the casefeeder.

 

This results in a thinner and more finely distributed film of lube than if you spray cases directly, and it never gets inside the cases to contaminate the powder.

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One Shot tip: spray it generously into a tupperware plastic container, then dump your brass in. Stir it around to get lube on all the cases, and then dump them into the casefeeder.
 
This results in a thinner and more finely distributed film of lube than if you spray cases directly, and it never gets inside the cases to contaminate the powder.

Memphis,

One Shot does not contaminate powder or primers and not that a 9mm case needs it but having some in the case mouth does ease sizing and particularly neck expansion at the primer swaging station on the 1050.

A whiff of One Shot really does go a long way on short pistol cases.

Having said that, I used to use tupperware until getting my MkVII. With the higher volumes the containers were getting pretty nasty as One Shot built up. At least with the zip lock bags you can toss them fairly frequently.
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Posted (edited)

@Want2BS8ed several guys here on this forum have managed a squib type load and they stopped having their issues when they no longer let lube get into the cases.

 

Vibratory tumble or wet tumble without pins, and there’s enough carbon left inside the cases to keep your brass from sticking on the belling station, so there’s no actual *need* to have any lube inside them.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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