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Drilling frame


tomjerry1

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Well, it's an undersize sear pin hole, by about .005". Not sure how hard the frame is? Not trying to be to cheap, not aware of any good smiths I would let do the job in my area, and I could always send off to a reputable  smith. This is not an expensive pistol by any means, just not worth dumping a lot into it. The trigger pull was about 9#, had another trigger and sear of decent quality, so I installed them. Well, I have the trigger pull down to 3.5#, and when I let rack the slide quickly, the hammer will drop to the 1/4 stop. There is a sharp edge on the hammer hooks, and sear is honed correctly(I would say). I just feel that the small amount of play from the sear pin dia., to correct sear hole dia., it lets the sear release from the hammer hooks?????

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I  had a slightly undersized sear pin hole in my 1911 project and simply drilled it with the correct size drill bit for a perfect fit. The hole radius is .110 so a #35 gaugse drill bit is the perfect size. Don't forget to chamfer/countersink (60 degree) the left side so the sear pin head will seat completely.

 

The sear should have an opening  of .111 so the pin should have minimal impact on sear movement.

Edited by frgood
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On 11 July 2018 at 6:34 AM, tomjerry1 said:

Well, it's an undersize sear pin hole, by about .005". Not sure how hard the frame is? Not trying to be to cheap, not aware of any good smiths I would let do the job in my area, and I could always send off to a reputable  smith. This is not an expensive pistol by any means, just not worth dumping a lot into it. The trigger pull was about 9#, had another trigger and sear of decent quality, so I installed them. Well, I have the trigger pull down to 3.5#, and when I let rack the slide quickly, the hammer will drop to the 1/4 stop. There is a sharp edge on the hammer hooks, and sear is honed correctly(I would say). I just feel that the small amount of play from the sear pin dia., to correct sear hole dia., it lets the sear release from the hammer hooks?????

If the hammer and sear are cut to the correct angles... Hold the trigger forward and drop the slide, if the hammer follows the sear and hammer are probably not right.

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I drilled the hole to the correct size, now the sear is held in place correctly. Tried again, hammer still drops to 1/4 notch, although not as often. I have Brownell trigger alignment pins, place the trigger and sear on outside of the pistol, check for alignment. Seems good, stoned the sear just to clean up the face, still does it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/21/2018 at 8:47 AM, tomjerry1 said:

I drilled the hole to the correct size, now the sear is held in place correctly. Tried again, hammer still drops to 1/4 notch, although not as often. I have Brownell trigger alignment pins, place the trigger and sear on outside of the pistol, check for alignment. Seems good, stoned the sear just to clean up the face, still does it. 

 

I didn't think punching out the hole was going to do it.  You clearly have a simple case of hammer follow.  It may seem good checking your parts, but something isn't right.  If this is a 2011 it is possibly a grip issue if everything else truly is in working order.  

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Beyond the sear pin hole issue, I did have sear/hammer issues. I tried honing the trigger hooks and sear angles, with no luck, so I replaced them, all is good now. And I have the correct size sear pin installed. This is a 1911.

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  • 1 month later...

If this is a 2011, check the sear pin hole and the hammer pin hole for parallel.

I had a Match Master with a similar issue.  When I installed a Brazo's drop in fire control kit, I started getting sporadic hammer follow.

It turned out that the pin holes were out of parallel by 0.005.  The sear had to be cut to match the new angle.  The factory sear/hammer had so much engagement, that the sear stayed  engaged with the hammer.  

This another example of the old STI's QC.  This gun was built in 2016.

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