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Have Dillon 550 no autoindex how to make sure no double charge


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Sorry if this has already been discussed but was hoping to get some answers on other ways to make sure no double charging happens on a 550 other than just buy a 650 or 1050 or other autoindexing press.

 

I am looking for a more efficient way than measuring and weighing each bullet like maybe dumping the bullets in a tray I dont know here hoping someone has answers on this.  I just dont want to see myself get careless and accidentally mess up

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Your eyes. Just look in the case then rotate to next position. I use quick powder, small charge, and it’s almost over flowing if you double charge. Pretty easy to see a double. 

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15 minutes ago, Tnbb33 said:

Your eyes. Just look in the case then rotate to next position. I use quick powder, small charge, and it’s almost over flowing if you double charge. Pretty easy to see a double. 

+1

Use your eyes.  When I first switched from a Lee Turret to a Dillon XL650, I used the powder check.  Now some 10 years later, I have a light facing station 3 on my XL650.  I just look at each case and I know how much powder should be in each case.

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In addition to lighting it up and looking at each charge pick a bulky powder like Sport Pistol or WSF that will spill over or fill the case completely on a double charge. That makes a double easy to spot.

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1 hour ago, awayne said:

Sorry if this has already been discussed but was hoping to get some answers on other ways to make sure no double charging happens on a 550 other than just buy a 650 or 1050 or other autoindexing press.

 

I am looking for a more efficient way than measuring and weighing each bullet like maybe dumping the bullets in a tray I dont know here hoping someone has answers on this.  I just dont want to see myself get careless and accidentally mess up

Just pay attention while reloading. Stay focused.

  Weighing loaded rounds is an excercise in futility. Chances are there is enough fluctuation in the weight of the combined components that you won’t be able to sort out an under or over charge.

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I load on s 550 also,  on station 3 I always look and say “powder”.  If  ever you have to stop for any reason this is the time to really pay attention.  Sometimes I’ll clear the whole shell plate and start over.  Use a powder that’s easy to see as others have said, but no powder in a case can be dangerous also.

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If you have to interrupt your loading rhythm for some reason other than a press malfunction, make sure you leave the press with the ram up/handle down - that way you can be absolutely sure of the status of every station.  Any time you leave the shell plate full and the ram down and walk away, or even just turn your attention to something else briefly, you've got an opportunity to throw a double charge.  If you leave the ram up/handle down, on the other hand, it's 100% obvious that your next move should be "lower ram" followed by "rotate shell plate."  Beyond that, as others have said, visually verify every charge before you pull the handle.

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2 minutes ago, olstyn said:

If you have to interrupt your loading rhythm for some reason other than a press malfunction, make sure you leave the press with the ram up/handle down - that way you can be absolutely sure of the status of every station.  Any time you leave the shell plate full and the ram down and walk away, or even just turn your attention to something else briefly, you've got an opportunity to throw a double charge.  If you leave the ram up/handle down, on the other hand, it's 100% obvious that your next move should be "lower ram" followed by "rotate shell plate."  Beyond that, as others have said, visually verify every charge before you pull the handle.

 

This is how I used to reload on my 550.  I never had a squib or double charge in the tens of thousands of rounds I loaded on my 550.  

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55 minutes ago, eisenhow said:

 

This is how I used to reload on my 550.  I never had a squib or double charge in the tens of thousands of rounds I loaded on my 550.  

Hell, it's how I operate even with an auto-indexing press.  Maybe less necessary there, but I still think it's safer.

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Look in every case. I load on a 550. I have a small LED light hot glued to the side of the press, shining down into the case at station 3. Above the light, I have a small, round mirror (parts mirror at Lowe's) also hot glued to the press. All you have to do is glance at the mirror as you are setting the bullet. 

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4 hours ago, awayne said:

no double charging happens on a 550 other than just buy a 650 or 1050 or other autoindexing press.

 

You can screw up on any brand of press, particularly when you are having issues or making adjustments. 

I've got a 550 and a 1050, "look in every case & stay focused" is where I am at also.

I get more worries from junk inside the brass that makes it past the deprime station (something fluffy like vegetable matter or whatever), do not see that often and maybe it would not lead to a dangerous round but do see that filling a good portion of the case on a few rounds each year. 

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7 hours ago, awayne said:

Sorry if this has already been discussed but was hoping to get some answers on other ways to make sure no double charging happens on a 550

 

Look at the charge in the case before you seat the bullet, with all presses, with all drops, period.  ;) 

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15 hours ago, bowenbuilt said:

In addition to lighting it up and looking at each charge pick a bulky powder like Sport Pistol or WSF that will spill over or fill the case completely on a double charge. That makes a double easy to spot.

 

One of the most reliable ways, especially if you're setting bullets by hand. Titegroup always had me worried, it just filled too little of the case in 9mm. e3 on the other hand will be at the top or overflow the case in a double charge scenario.

 

Of course, catching the powder level issue is still a matter of looking at every charged case.

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As others have said:

 

1.  Use plenty of light. I like the skylight from inline precision. It moves between tool heads easily. 

 

2. Keep a consistent procedure. Leaving handle down during interruptions is a good practice. 

 

3. Pay attention to what you’re doing. Seriously. Watch the machine like you watch your front sight. 

 

4.  Keep an organized loading station. I use a bullet tray and empty brass tray so everything is immediately at hand. 

 

5.  Take frequent breaks to maintain concentration. I typically load 100 and empty the shell plate. Take a break, even if it’s just to refill components or run to the head. Then start over with the established loading process. 

 

Dont worry too much about the 550. It’s a very easy machine to operate correctly. 

 

I also have a Square Deal auto indexing press. I have more worries about squib or double charge with that press when it hiccups. The 550 is my favorite press because it’s easy to use, fast enough to meet our needs, and produces quality and accurate ammunition. 

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20 hours ago, practical_man said:

As others have said:

 

1.  Use plenty of light. I like the skylight from inline precision. It moves between tool heads easily. 

 

2. Keep a consistent procedure. Leaving handle down during interruptions is a good practice. 

 

3. Pay attention to what you’re doing. Seriously. Watch the machine like you watch your front sight

 

4.  Keep an organized loading station. I use a bullet tray and empty brass tray so everything is immediately at hand. 

 

5.  Take frequent breaks to maintain concentration. I typically load 100 and empty the shell plate. Take a break, even if it’s just to refill components or run to the head. Then start over with the established loading process. 

 

Dont worry too much about the 550. It’s a very easy machine to operate correctly. 

 

I also have a Square Deal auto indexing press. I have more worries about squib or double charge with that press when it hiccups. The 550 is my favorite press because it’s easy to use, fast enough to meet our needs, and produces quality and accurate ammunition. 

+1, only problems I had was with my SD, never had any problems with my 550's. Always focus on you reloading, don't think about something else, you get distracted and then mistakes happen. I always check my powder drops visually (only problem is with tall brass like 38 spl, then I have to lean a bit forward to look inside. One of the benefits of the 550 is that you can go back if you see a round has no powder (just take the brass out of the first stage to be safe not to push out the primer...).

Lights, like the Inline Fab ones, are mandatory for a safe reloading process.

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Boots on ground, eyes on case. I use a little music stand light, but InLine Fab makes a really nice press mounted light. By the way, the Square Deal cannot double. Once the handle is about 1/3 the way down, long before the powder drop, the index pawl is already over center and cannot go backwards. It only goes one way. I've my 550 since 1986 and my SD since 2001.

 

image37741.jpg

 

 

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I've used a 550 for a while and have not messed up yet.  I load pretty slowly though, and I advance that shell plate as soon as the handle is up. I also use an InLine LED light, look in each case and acknowledge the powder level before placing the bullet.  Sometimes I even say "powder" when I see it.  I also happen to use WSF which would overflow with a double charge.  

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You can use a 2in1 seat and crimp die to free up a station and then be able to add a powder checker. Also if you google DILLON PRESS MONITOR it is a system that will monitor and tell you if you short stroke or do anything out of index order, it also has nice counters and some other features. 

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I also recommend getting in the habit of clearing the press before you get up from it, that is to say if you need to leave the press run the cases that are on the tool head through that way their is no question if you dropped powder or not.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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My first time loading 357 on a 550 using Titegroup was quite a long time ago. That experience cost me a real nice S&W 626. Since then I use powder that fills half the case or close so a double charge will be noticeable. You can't see the powder even with a light. Any time you stop for a problem clear your machine. Safety is the best policy.

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On 7/4/2018 at 1:48 PM, Tnbb33 said:

Your eyes. Just look in the case then rotate to next position. I use quick powder, small charge, and it’s almost over flowing if you double charge. Pretty easy to see a double. 

 

I feel an obligation to correct this in case anyone who doesn't know what they're doing reads this.

 

Slower powers take larger charges to make the same velocity, so using a slower powder makes it more likely a double charge will overflow the case.

 

Faster powders on the other hand require smoaller charges making it easier for a double charge to go unnoticed.

 

These are fundamental principles of reloading which will serve you well.

 

It's worth noting that typically a slower powder will result in a harsher recoil impulse given the same bullet weight and velocity than a faster one, but it will also typically yeild lower chamber pressure.

Edited by kneelingatlas
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1 hour ago, kneelingatlas said:

 

I feel an obligation to correct this in case anyone who doesn't know what they're doing reads this.

 

Slower powers take larger charges to make the same velocity, so using a slower powder makes it more likely a double charge will overflow the case.

 

Faster powders on the other hand require smoaller charges making it easier for a double charge to go unnoticed.

 

These are fundamental principles of reloading which will serve you well.

 

It's worth noting that typically a slower powder will result in a harsher recoil impulse given the same bullet weight and velocity than a faster one, but it will also typically yeild lower chamber pressure.

That explains it much better. Thanks

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I would use your eyeballs.  Even double charged fast powders are recognizable if you condition yourself to look for it.  Combination seating and crimp dies have their own problems that I personally would avoid.  

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