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AR 9 nightmare


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So I ended up building the pcc from hell.

Problem: So I built this pcc with the parts listed below, for the first maybe 400ish rounds the gun ran fantastic, then during my first stage I got to the end of the stage and pullet the trigger and got nothing I got a dead trigger, afterwords I pulled the bolt and the firing pin was stuck just popping a tiny bit outside of the firing pin hole, creating very small dimples in the primers. I cleaned and lubed the firing pin and cleaned the firing pin hole as best i could with a wire brush. Then it started failure to fire 1-5 shots into a stage, on every stage. So I would eject the round pull the trigger and get a click (checkout my instagram @andrewt556 for a video) after ejecting 1-5 rounds it would run again. post stage pulled the bolt and the tip of the pin looks uniform/okay however the rear of the pin has a slight mushroom very slight hardly noticeable, then I notice the hammer of the trigger is causing a indentation right bellow and above the rear of the firing pin in the bolt. I pulled the Original taccom firing pin and installed a CMMG 9mm firing pin with a  new spring. I still ran into the same issue with a new pin. I shot another 11 stage match today and shot for fun at the end 400 ish rounds and every single stage I had to eject a round at some point. In practice however it would run for the 6 round plate rack flawlessly. 

 

Summary(sorry for length I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible) 

A few rounds in to a stage I pull the trigger and nothing happens(hammer falls but no strikes on rounds found on the ground post stage) eject the round same thing then suddenly starts shooting again after repeating the process 1-3 times. 

 

 

Parts:

Taccom Barrel and extreme bolt

replaced the taccom (the "old" style)  firing pin with a ccmg firing pin.

changed the spring and retainer too 

PSA lower with the stock buffer

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-9mm-billet-complete-glockc-style-magazine-moe-lower-blk.html

CMC 2.5 lb trigger

https://www.cmctriggers.com/standard-trigger-pull-flat-2-5-lbs/

 

solutions: No f_cking clue someon suggested heavier buffer wight and a lighter spring. not sure what to do, I need this running 100% july 7th so I dont have time to wait for parts. PRimary arms however is local to me. 

 

Thank you 

PS sorry for poor spelling, punctuation and grammar 

again sorry if anything is unclear let me know if you have any questions

feel free to post here or email me @andrewt556@gmail.com

 

 

 

Edited by andrewt556
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So I think its somehow the buffer not returing the bolt to the full forward position but because this has only happend on the clock i've never stopped to see. I dont think its the trigger because I still get the "plink" noise of the hammer falling (same noise as when you dryfire ) If you want to see a video I can post it to youtube and send a link. 
 

EDIT I added a link to a video of the problem I was describing. I will change out to the stock trigger. 

Edited by andrewt556
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1 hour ago, Flatland Shooter said:

Did you get your 550 set up yet?  Are you having problems with factory ammo, reloads or both?

 

Do you have access to another bolt?

 

 

No dude blew me off found someone who would pay way more. Using just factory ammo federal 115 brass, Winchester white box 115, Winchester NATO 124, federal 115 aluminum, brass blazer 115, 147 freedom munitions and even some hot plus p Hornady something. They  all causes the same malfunction but especially 115 federal brass.

 

nope just my taccom bolt, I’ve been looking around to see if any local guys will sell me a bolt or taccom 3 stage buffer. 

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6 hours ago, Flatland Shooter said:

Any chance you can put the mil-spec trigger back into the lower?  The CMC trigger may be the problem.

I'm running a similar setup with a PSA lower, Taccom bolt, Taccom 3 stage buffer, Taccom ULW barrel.  My only difference is I'm running a Hiperfire 24C.  I agree with Flatland that your CMC trigger might be the problem.

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I read your original post, and at the end I thought:  trigger.  My thought is being echoed a lot. I believe the CMC lightens pull weight by using reduced power springs.  I’d go with a trigger that uses full power springs (like a Gieselle, Elftmann, or Timney) or the Hyperfire 24c which actually has stronger springs.  This will give you better ignition, plus if your bolt is juuust far enough in battery to fire the trigger but just far enough out of battery for no bang, a really strong hammer fall might give it that extra oomph it needs to get everything in alignment.  Sorry, not an inexpensive suggestion but you might be able to sell your CMC to help defer costs.  

 

A stronger buffer spring wouldn’t hurt.  

 

Another thought might be to really clean the daylights out of your breechface and chamber.  And when I say clean it, I mean:  get in there like you’re a junior proctologist.  Use a magnifier and light to see.  Use a dental pick.  I put a pipe cleaner on an eletric drill with cleaning chemicals or even car polish if necessary.  You might have some carbon building up in just the right spot so that it’s barely holding it out of battery on a loaded round enough that your hammer isn’t getting a direct hit on the firing pin, then hand cycling a few rounds scrapes your chamber loose enough to get it running for a minute, and then repeat.  I’ve got a .22lr pistol that acts a bit like your gun if I don’t keep the chamber absolutely spotless, and it has to be cleaned like this after every match.  Definitely try this first as it only requires time and can be immediately tested afterwards.  

Edited by jkrispies
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12 hours ago, stick said:

I'm running a similar setup with a PSA lower, Taccom bolt, Taccom 3 stage buffer, Taccom ULW barrel.  My only difference is I'm running a Hiperfire 24C.  I agree with Flatland that your CMC trigger might be the problem.

Did you ever have any problems when using the standard psa buffer?

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8 hours ago, jkrispies said:

I read your original post, and at the end I thought:  trigger.  My thought is being echoed a lot. I believe the CMC lightens pull weight by using reduced power springs.  I’d go with a trigger that uses full power springs (like a Gieselle, Elftmann, or Timney) or the Hyperfire 24c which actually has stronger springs.  This will give you better ignition, plus if your bolt is juuust far enough in battery to fire the trigger but just far enough out of battery for no bang, a really strong hammer fall might give it that extra oomph it needs to get everything in alignment.  Sorry, not an inexpensive suggestion but you might be able to sell your CMC to help defer costs.  

 

A stronger buffer spring wouldn’t hurt.  

 

Another thought might be to really clean the daylights out of your breechface and chamber.  And when I say clean it, I mean:  get in there like you’re a junior proctologist.  Use a magnifier and light to see.  Use a dental pick.  I put a pipe cleaner on an eletric drill with cleaning chemicals or even car polish if necessary.  You might have some carbon building up in just the right spot so that it’s barely holding it out of battery on a loaded round enough that your hammer isn’t getting a direct hit on the firing pin, then hand cycling a few rounds scrapes your chamber loose enough to get it running for a minute, and then repeat.  I’ve got a .22lr pistol that acts a bit like your gun if I don’t keep the chamber absolutely spotless, and it has to be cleaned like this after every match.  Definitely try this first as it only requires time and can be immediately tested afterwards.  

 I want to take the hole thing apart and dump in an ultrasonic. but I Cleaned it up and its pretty much a new gun <1k thru it so not much dirtyness. 

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30 minutes ago, andrewt556 said:

I Cleaned it up and its pretty much a new gun <1k thru it so not much dirtyness. 

I thought that too until my gunsmith showed me The Ugliness in my similarly new Steel gun’s ..22lr chamber under a magnifier AFTER it was thoroughly cleaned by me.  He asked me to rate my cleaning before we looked at it, and I modesty called it a B+, but it ended up being a D-.  He then tutored me on his cleaning steps, during which I thought he was being clinically anal but it cured the mechanical problem I was experiencing, which sounds a lot like your issue.  FYI my gunsmith is a very accomplished GM, so I suspect that the top shooters out there either clean their guns to the same degree or pay someone else to do it for them.  

Edited by jkrispies
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30 minutes ago, andrewt556 said:

Did you ever have any problems when using the standard psa buffer?

I only notice a difference in the recoil.  

I have two PCC's that I use.

1) PSA Gen3 lower, hiperfire 24c, taccom bolt, Taccom ULW Barrel, Taccom Carbon fiber handguard, slick side upper & Taccom 3 stage buffer. (Steel Challenge PCC)

2) PSA Gen1 lower, PSA Upper, Hiperfire 24 3G, PSA Bolt, PSA Handguard, PSA buffer & spring & Bmiller aluminum magwell. (USPSA rifle)

Other than the weight and barrel length, the the main difference is the recoil.  #2 recoils back and has very little flip, while #1 has almost no backward movement and a slight upward flip.

 

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Hello: I would check to see if your barrel is still tight in the receiver. Check the gas key to make sure the bolts are tight. Check the buffer tube to make sure it is tight. Lastly I would remove the barrel and plunk a round in there to make sure it has not been reamed to deeply. It should stick out about 0.125" or so. Trigger as others have suggested. Thanks, Eric

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I had this exact scenario happen when I first got my PCC and dropped my Gisselle trigger from another rifle in it.  Intermittent fire and no fire for unknown reason.  My research led to the fact AR 9 bolts are too different for some makes of triggers. At the time, about a year ago, there were only 3 listed triggers in a thread I read somewhere that were reliable in AR 9s.  One was the hiperfire, of which I got and have been trouble free ever since.  Info at the time was trigger manufactures were aware of the issue and beginning to design triggers specifically for AR 9s.  I can’t remember all the details, but basically the hammer on most aftermarket triggers was not tall enough to properly engage the firing pin.  Mine did exactly as in the video and description, until I got the hiperfire.  There are other triggers out there, but that’s the one that worked for me and why.

Edited by Hammer002
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I've got a couple 9MM AR's.  

 

Both mine run standard triggers from AR15 lower parts kits.  No issues.

 

And, from what I've seen, a blowback 9MM is now the dirtiest operating gun I own.  They have displaced .22 rimfires for creating a blackish/gray coating of burnt powder residue even on the outside of the upper and lower receivers in the area of the ejection port and mag well, let alone what ends up on the bolt/bolt face, chamber.  Dirtier than a DI .223, at least my two are.

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3 hours ago, jkrispies said:

I thought that too until my gunsmith showed me The Ugliness in my similarly new Steel gun’s ..22lr chamber under a magnifier AFTER it was thoroughly cleaned by me.  He asked me to rate my cleaning before we looked at it, and I modesty called it a B+, but it ended up being a D-.  He then tutored me on his cleaning steps, during which I thought he was being clinically anal but it cured the mechanical problem I was experiencing, which sounds a lot like your issue.  FYI my gunsmith is a very accomplished GM, so I suspect that the top shooters out there either clean their guns to the same degree or pay someone else to do it for them.  

 So I just dropped mine of at the smith didn't mention anything about the dirtyness, but what kind of cleaning are you doing ? I used a wire brush, nylon after. Chemicals were hopps and brake cleaner. 

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40 minutes ago, Hammer002 said:

I had this exact scenario happen when I first got my PCC and dropped my Gisselle trigger from another rifle in it.  Intermittent fire and no fire for unknown reason.  My research led to the fact AR 9 bolts are too different for some makes of triggers. At the time, about a year ago, there were only 3 listed triggers in a thread I read somewhere that were reliable in AR 9s.  One was the hiperfire, of which I got and have been trouble free ever since.  Info at the time was trigger manufactures were aware of the issue and beginning to design triggers specifically for AR 9s.  I can’t remember all the details, but basically the hammer on most aftermarket triggers was not tall enough to properly engage the firing pin.  Mine did exactly as in the video and description, until I got the hiperfire.  There are other triggers out there, but that’s the one that worked for me and why.

At the smith today he noticed right above the firing pin a groove was formed by the hammer and he suspected that if the hammer missed that groove the hammer lost enough energy that I didnt get a strike. What hiperfire do you have im thinking about getting the under 100$ ones not sure of the model just the low end ones. This guns already cost me to much haha. 

 

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You mentioned you were local to Primary Arms.  They have several models in stock.  Since you might be having trigger problems, consider spending the extra dollars for tried and true 24E or 24C (or whatever they call them now).  They run around $195 to $235 and in your case with a major match coming up, money well spent.

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58 minutes ago, andrewt556 said:

 So I just dropped mine of at the smith didn't mention anything about the dirtyness, but what kind of cleaning are you doing ? I used a wire brush, nylon after. Chemicals were hopps and brake cleaner. 

Basically the same but also scrape lead if seen under magnification as well as spin the brish with a hand drill. 

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18 hours ago, andrewt556 said:

At the smith today he noticed right above the firing pin a groove was formed by the hammer and he suspected that if the hammer missed that groove the hammer lost enough energy that I didnt get a strike. What hiperfire do you have im thinking about getting the under 100$ ones not sure of the model just the low end ones. This guns already cost me to much haha. 

 

 

24c I believe it was. The competition one.  Not a single problem after that

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At the smith today he noticed right above the firing pin a groove was formed by the hammer and he suspected that if the hammer missed that groove the hammer lost enough energy that I didnt get a strike. What hiperfire do you have im thinking about getting the under 100$ ones not sure of the model just the low end ones. This guns already cost me to much haha. 
 
Don't go cheap on the trigger. Spend the cash and get the 24 3g or the 24c. Both are the same trigger mechanism just a different trigger blade. The 3g is less expensive. Btw. They have renamed the triggers, why I don't know. The 3g is now called the reflex

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

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On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 9:09 PM, andrewt556 said:

...and lubed the firing pin...

 

I also would avoid this ^^^.  As dirty as PCCs are, having lube in the FP channel is asking for crap to build up in there.

 

I got lucky and my CMC trigger works for me.  When I spoke to them about whether I might see failures in the future and what to look for, they said that usually the trigger will fail to reset, and that there really wasn't anything to look for to foretell a failure.  They either worked or they didn't.  It's kind of strange that yours worked for 400 rounds and then didn't, but their standard triggers have caused problems in a lot of different PCCs. 

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6 hours ago, mstamper said:

Don't go cheap on the trigger. Spend the cash and get the 24 3g or the 24c. Both are the same trigger mechanism just a different trigger blade. The 3g is less expensive. Btw. They have renamed the triggers, why I don't know. The 3g is now called the reflex

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

Whats wrong with the cheaper triggers besides pull weight? I just want the reliability of the 24c but I cant afford one right now.  

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