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Large gun safe in apartment


The2aguy

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Anyone have a large safe in an apartment?

 

I recently purchased a liberty USA 30 thinking heavier is better with room to grow however @ 545 lbs empty I’m highly concerned it could damage the floor after a extended time

 

I’m on the first floor but it’s not a concrete slab.

 

I’m considering returning for either of these 2 models

 

Champion M21 @ 490lbs

 

Liberty centurion 24 @ 375lbs

 

Quality is of high importance without concerns of damage, I do have cameras around my home that alert me of any motion in the home

 

I do not want a cheap stack on 10lb cabinet

 

Suggestions? Previous experience?

 

 

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Depending on the age of the apartment, it’s probably designed for 40-50lb/sf for live load.

 

take the sf area of the bottom of the safe and multiply by 40 and see how close that is the the actual safe weight.  My guess is you’d be over load capacity based on those weights but I don’t know how big the footprints are of them.

 

A couple sheets of plywood under it would make the loaded area 32sf x 40lb = 1,280 lb capacity roughly.

 

theres a lot of assumptions in the above just giving some ideas as to what the likely capacities are structurally.

 

in all reality though, if the safe isn’t bolted down, a good thief will tip it and be inside in a few minutes with power tools, and only need a couple more minutes without them.  In all likelihood though they’d just throw it on a dolly and roll it out the door.  What you’re really buying in a small theft deterring metal box is safely from an opportunistic thief and fire protection and I’d weigh the reality of the likelihood of either of those to make the decision.

 

A real safe weighs tons not lbs unfortunately 

 

 

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Buy the lighter safe and fill it with guns to achieve the desired weight. In all seriousness, guns and ammo add lots of weight. Maybe 75-100...

 

Agree with posts above that both safes can be breeched in minutes by all but the dumbest / opportunistic teenager-type thieves. 

 

The safe is only part of a system of layers to achieve security: 

 

-Alarm

-Dog

-Best practices when out of town (timers, fake TV, mail and trash taken, don’t announce trips on social media)

-WiFi cameras that alert phone

-Disguise the safe- you’d miss mine standing next to it.

-General OPSEC (bumper stickers, etc)

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Since you already have the safe.... the challenge is to increase floornload bearing capacity. Some good hints have already been given. 

 

Your challenge is to distribute the weight across as many floor joists as possible.  You will need 3 sheets of AC grade 3/4” plywood stacked together. Ideally glued and stacked, but that’s overkill for a temporary installation. 

 

Determine the direction your joists run. Determine the spacing. A stud finder can be helpful. 

 

Lay your pkywood stack across across at least 4 joists. Place safe in center. Safe sitting across 2 joists. Lag screw to floor. Prepare to abandon your security deposit. 

 

Id you decide to abandon the safe then get something more suitable to apartment dwellers like the panel safes. Put in a closet for concealment and difficult access for would be felons. 

 

Buy it a big safe with your first home. 

 

I have a couple safes. A big one and a small snap-safe type (but a different brand). The big safe is bolted to a concrete floor. The small one Is bolted to a reinforced wood composite floor. It’s my house so I can do as I please; a luxury not afforded to apartment renters. The safes are safety devices to keep kids out and mollify my insurance company. Determined thieves take what they want. Most thieves just smash and grab what is easiest to get. 

 

Dont sweat these things too much. Enjoy life. 

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  • 1 month later...

Is there a refrigerator in the apartment?  If so it weighs as much 300 pounds.  I would think putting a 500 pound piano in the apartment or house would be fine too.  I bought a small safe, 500 pound range, for a rental house and kept my 1200 plus pounder in storage.  I think you will be fine.  If you want to overkill it you could put the plywood down.

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Agree with all the above. Plywood will spread the load and raising it any will help you see into it. In our old house I bolted a riser (made up of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood on either side) to the floor and had the safe mover place the safe on it, then I bolted the safe to the riser. Not so much for stopping a bad guy, but ease of seeing into the safe and getting things in and out. Also, the door is really where all the weight is and if its open and you pull down the safe will tip forward......not good. I also second the above comments on many layers of security. As well as bolting it down, its was in the corner of a basement with concrete on two side and I also built a cabinet around it and the door leading into the room had a lock. Sure, someone with lots of time could have gotten in, but not without making a bunch of noise! Also, not sure if you paid someone to move it....but its not cheap to move on in and out a few times.

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Glad I'm not the only one who's had this issue. 600lbs safe on 2nd story but professional movers couldn't even get it up the narrow confined staircase.
There are many great suggestions though, thanks.

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For anyone else who ran into this issue here’s what I ended up with as an update

I returned the USA30 for a centurion 24

Since I couldn’t bolt the safe to the floor I cut out 2 40” by 20” 3/4 ready board and bolted that to the safe

The board both spreads out the weight and is wider than the doorway making it more of a hassle to remove it from the room

The safe is also in a tight spot difficult to maneuver


In the end I concluded the safe is only one piece of the security, there’s also cameras and an alarm system I can watch from my phone at anytime which immediately notifies me of any motion

The police station is less than 1/8 mile away from me so that’s also a positive

The USA30 was a very heavy safe for an apartment empty but I felt the centurion loaded weight and extra security will hopefully be enough




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