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Posted (edited)
On 6/13/2018 at 10:17 AM, Postal Bob said:

Mobil 1 oil only. It doesn't burn off in the summer heat, nor thicken up in winter's cold. And it doesn't attract dirt and fouling like grease.

Our local gun range is a very dusty and sandy environment, and I never have a problem with Mobil 1, even in my 22's.

 

On 6/13/2018 at 5:47 PM, bigtimelarry said:

 

Me too.  I quit using Grease, was attracting so much dirt it felt like a lapping compound..  

 

Edited by ExStreetWalker

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Retain, attract, it's nit picking words. Bottom line is with grease, your going to get more dirt mixed in with it than oil.

The conditions we shoot in are like being in the desert, and grease doesn't cut it. Mobil 1 has never failed me, even in finicky .22 autos which have real problems in dusty, sandy conditions.

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i've had great luck using a light coat of grease upon which i add a drop of oil onto each rail site. Learned this from a well respected gunsmith and competitor. 

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I’ve been running the green/blue Lucas with no issues, it stays put for the most part and feels slick as snot.

This is completely unscientific but I have applied it to my press ram twice in more than 5k rounds and it’s still smooth as silk

 

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Posted (edited)

I've ran slide glide in both of my Tanfo limited 40s for years but my 2011 Akai was a no go... it doesn't like grease even light coating.  So I switched to FP10 oil.... and it runs like a champ!

Edited by Luck2011

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Grease is oil with a carrier (thickener, usually a soap) added. Grease can have any viscosity of oil in it. So therefore grease is offered in different grades or viscosities.

 

I do really like the Slide Glide and have it in the different "weights". I also have an "oil pen" that has Mobil 1  in it for a drop on the Disconnector etc.

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a never ending debate full of unqualified opinions. 

 

surely there is at least one mad scientist in these forums that can provide some metal science. 

 

from what i have researched and for those of us that dont want to constantly be applying oil the correct grease in the correct places is a good option. i can run my 2011s for a thousand rounds using lubriplate and its still there when i clean the gun. i have one 2011 with 40k rounds using lubriplate and its still as tight as the first 500 rounds. 

 

if you want to drop your guns on the ground while shooting a match in the sand dunes or play commando ninja then maybe grease isnt the best option for you.  if you shoot a glock im sure you can just keep spitting on it and it will continue to run. 

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Yeah, these threads are pretty funny.  It's a handgun.  It's not subject to extreme heat, friction, or wear.  You could probably use vaseline or vegetable oil and have the same results as your secret formula.

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6 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

Yeah, these threads are pretty funny.  It's a handgun.  It's not subject to extreme heat, friction, or wear.  You could probably use vaseline or vegetable oil and have the same results as your secret formula.

Fireclean!

In all seriousness, I use spray oil on my STI Matchmaster. Runs pretty much failure-free. Granted, it is a bit dry after a match.

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20 hours ago, CrashDodson said:

a never ending debate full of unqualified opinions. 

9 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

Yeah, these threads are pretty funny.  It's a handgun.  It's not subject to extreme heat, friction, or wear.  You could probably use vaseline or vegetable oil and have the same results as your secret formula.

 

Glad to see some reality reintroduced into this thread. This debate has raged for decades, I am sure. It will probably continue for decades more. I note that there do not appear to be any scientific independent tests to confirm anything anybody is saying here, unless my Google fu is broken. 

 

2 hours ago, Janskis said:

Fireclean!

 

I remember that fiasco with Crisco. Awesome stuff it was. 

 

Carry on. 

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It seems some really don't understand how a 1911 functions and are giving bad advice........

every time you drop the slide on an empty chamber without holding the trigger down you allow the contact surfaces of the

hammer and sear to literally bounce against each other......what's that $100+ trigger job worth and that's if you don't ruin the

contact surfaces.

 

 And NO you don't do it every time you go to slide lock, when you drop the slide on a new mag the stripping off of the round

slows slide velocity so as to not cause DAMAGE.....YES I said DAMAGE

 

Don't compare a standard GI  or production 1911 against a finely tuned 1911 where the hooks are already ground to around .022

there's very little contact surface left to begin with and grinding them down more by slide bounce ( or worse chipping them),isn't going to help any.

 

Do as you wish with your 1911 just don't give bad  advice to others. 

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22 hours ago, NickAument said:

 And NO you don't do it every time you go to slide lock, when you drop the slide on a new mag the stripping off of the round

slows slide velocity so as to not cause DAMAGE.....YES I said DAMAGE

 

 

if you are like most 2011 shooters and set your gun up to NOT lock back, then every time you run the gun dry, it doesn't lock back, and it slams shut on an empty chamber, and no kittens die.

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In that scenario you are maintaining pressure on the trigger which keeps the contact surfaces from bouncing off themselves when the slide slams forward....... that's what saves the kitties!

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my kitten appreciates you holding the trigger back! LOL

 

I agree not to let the slide slam on a 1911/2011

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