Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 I started to tune my shadow 2 and I’m now at a point where I have it to the testing point. I have an issue where the trigger does not drop in double action. I can sort of double clutch the trigger and get it to drop. Otherwise the trigger bottoms out on the frame and does not drop the hammer. Single action appears to be fine. Here’s what’s in the gun CGW Race Hammer with adjustable sear TR-PIN S-7 tool steel floating trigger pin RP-TRS music wire reduced power trigger return spring 2 x HPIN, super hard and super smooth hammer pins HS-12000 (11.5#) & HS-13 (13#) hammer springs EXT-FP S-7 tool steel extended firing pin with matching spring 1486-T3 super hard tool steel hand fit disconnector S-spacer machined alum sear spacer 7510X Precision Match Barrel bushing Right now I’m using the regular trigger return spring as I figured it was the culprit. It does not appear to be the case. I have polished the trigger bar sides of hammer and sear and cage. No sandpaper. I treated this like a tanfo and did it with the felt wheel and blue magic. Any ideas as to the cause here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rnlinebacker Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 what about the double action disconnector?Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 What about it? It has the cgw t5 disco in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCShadow2 Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 (edited) Try adjusting the pre and overtravel screws in trigger. Adjust and put slide on, test, retest and blue locktite. Hope this helps. Had the same issue. Could also be the disco or sear spacer. Had the hand fit and went back to the oem. No issues now Edited June 9, 2018 by NCShadow2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 I’ve got the overtravel screw backed out all the way. Trigger is hitting the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCShadow2 Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 Got to be the sear spacer or sear adjustmentin my opinion. I had the exact same specs, and eliminated those two and works perfectly. Trigger screws shouldn’t be all the way in or out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 I’ll swap the factory seat back in tomorrow and see what happens. Pretty disappointed in the way this worked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCShadow2 Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 Been there. Tuning to perfection. You will get it worked out. Let me know if I can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 (edited) I just went through this with both a Shadow 2 (with stock sear/hammer) and a Shadow 1 (with CGW adjustable sear/comp hammer) when installing new CGW discos. Even though they were both 'drop-in', there still needed to be some fitting on some pistols because of slight variations. Like you, I couldn't get hammer fall with a full DA pull...sometimes all the way back on the frame, sometimes well beyond where the SA overtravel screw was. After some trial and error, and info from places like here, I finally got it to be at the same point as my SA break. Basically, I found the filing off material from the underside of the disco's 'wing' will advance the hammer fall in DA. But I went too far on a T1 disco, took off too much material, and it caused the hammer to fall too early. That a) may not provide enough hammer power for reliable ignition (light strikes), and/or b) will be uncomfortable because after an early break your trigger then has 'post-slack' and you sort of slam it back. Anyway, I went too far using a Dremel to file down. I learned my lesson and went slower with some small diamond files (the CGW discos are quite hard). The disco's wing is around .115" in thickness. When I went too far, I filed it down to around .104". When I went slow, I settled on the right spot at around .109", so you see how narrow the margin for error is. The area I'm referring to is indicated in this pic as "C" (blue). There have been other discussions on this with differing approaches. The one I recounted worked for me, but there is also an approach of filing the top or bottom of the big 'hook'.... Here's another...... Edited June 9, 2018 by MoRivera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haywizzle Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 12 hours ago, Nathanb said: I’ll swap the factory seat back in tomorrow and see what happens. Pretty disappointed in the way this worked out. What did Cajun Gun Works customer service say? They have seen it all and will tell you whats up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Nothing yet. I’m not the type to call on a weekend. This isn’t my match gun yet so it’s not pressing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 I'd say your disconnector isn't fitted correctly as stated above. Hopefully just a few swipes with a diamond file or stone or a chamfer. Check out the animation on the link below. It's helped me visualize when I run into fitting problems. I put dykem or sharpie on the action surfaces and look for rubbing or lack of rubbing as well. https://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=73586.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trinimon Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 (edited) I had a similar problem when I installed a pre-b disco. I had to remove material under the wings (see C in pic above) and a little off the top so that it could clear the trigger bar. Edited June 9, 2018 by Trinimon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixsixnine Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 38 minutes ago, huskerlrrp said: I'd say your disconnector isn't fitted correctly as stated above. Hopefully just a few swipes with a diamond file or stone or a chamfer. Check out the animation on the link below. It's helped me visualize when I run into fitting problems. I put dykem or sharpie on the action surfaces and look for rubbing or lack of rubbing as well. https://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=73586.0 This right here. That link is pure gold. I've spent more time than I care to admit staring at those animations trying to wrap my head around the way the action works. Once it 'clicks,' everything will make sense, but the amount of time that takes depends greatly on the individual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 That link really helps. Let me make sure I have this right. Looking down on the disco the wing is what causes it to release in da. If you trim the wing itself you’re changing the timing. Which can be good or bad depending on how much. Too much can cause the hammer to drop too soon and not have enough force to set off primers. The side closest to the frame is what influences single action. The thinner it is the more pretravel. In my case I need to trim the side closest to the sear in order to allow the disco wing to clear the sear or trim the wing on the disco. Which seems to be less preferable in my swings around the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCShadow2 Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 Let us know what you find the problem to be. It will be helpful to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Ive got it resetting now about 60 percent of the time. I did two very light passes across the top of the disco (nearest the sear) and its helped. Ill keep at it tomorrow and see what it takes to get it to reset all the time. Good news is this is with the lighter TRS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 After some more minor fitting this is all set. I also wanted to highlight something that I did that I could see others doing. When you are fitting and doing the final fittings and under spring tension make sure you are using both sides of the safety. IF you don’t your sear can and will move a very very small amount. It’s almost imperceptible but it is just enough that it can cause reset issues. Luckily I was fitting so slow that when i realized this I still had a few more passes to go but it definitely could be something that others would do. Don’t take the shortcut put both sides on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixsixnine Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, Nathanb said: After some more minor fitting this is all set. I also wanted to highlight something that I did that I could see others doing. When you are fitting and doing the final fittings and under spring tension make sure you are using both sides of the safety. IF you don’t your sear can and will move a very very small amount. It’s almost imperceptible but it is just enough that it can cause reset issues. Luckily I was fitting so slow that when i realized this I still had a few more passes to go but it definitely could be something that others would do. Don’t take the shortcut put both sides on. So where did you end up taking the rest of the material off? The top of the disconnector as you mentioned in your previous post, or under the wings as others have suggested? Glad you got it up and running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 (edited) I did the top. colored it with a sharpie let it dry and then filed off the color basically. Wash rinse repeat. I saw so much info regarding the wing leading to timing that i wanted to keep it intact as much as possible. All in all I dont think it would really matter as it both accomplishes the same thing. It was just what i was more comfortable with. It does appear that my DA and SA are breaking very very close to the same point so that is a plus. Edited June 10, 2018 by Nathanb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 I did the same recently on a Shadow 1 with a CGW T1 disconnector, but I took the 'wing' approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurley326 Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 from my understanding from talking with the cajun guys this is a classic cz timing issue with the DA. I just fixed the issue with mine thanks to their help. Essentially you need to file off material where line C meets line D in this image provided above. You cant put material back so go SLOW and light and retest often. its barely any material you take off. The second you see that material is removed its time to test it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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