1eyedfatman Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 In one of my 9mm Lim Pro which is tuned nicely, I recently replaced the PD 13lbs hammer spring and the Wolf 9lbs recoil spring. I also ordered 6 new mags to deal with widening feed lips and weaker springs in my old ones. But that lead me to think what should be a good annual or semi-anual replacement plan. Ive got all the other stuff in there like PD extended striker and spring, bolo and other springs. Anybody have a tune-up program they use to replace springs and parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trinimon Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 Why not just squeeze in the feed lips and replace the mag springs? If you are replacing the recoil spring because it is weakening or lots of mileage, might want to change out the FP spring, sear, trigger and extractor springs too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 57 minutes ago, Trinimon said: Why not just squeeze in the feed lips and replace the mag springs? I got a good deal on the mags, made sense to just replace the whole thing instead of just the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazhi Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 (edited) Mike, I shoot a Stock 2. Here is what I replace semi annually (15k or so live ammo and daily dry-fire): 1. Hammer spring 2. Recoil spring 3. Sear spring 4. Trigger return spring 5. Trigger bar plunger spring 6. Extractor spring (extra power) Here is what I replace annually (30k or so live ammo and daily dry-fire): 1. Firing pin spring 2. Firing pin block spring My gun just passed 2-year mark (gone through about 60k live ammo). I recently replaced the slide stop, and am thinking about replacing the extractor. 99% of the above replacements are done as pure preventative maintenance rather than to fix specific problems. Only the hammer spring actually gives me problems near the end of its life cycle, e.g. light strikes on DA. When that starts to happen, I know it's time to replace the springs. I have not replaced either the mag body or mag springs. I have 8 magazines dedicated to only matches, and 5 dedicated to practices. The 5 practice magazines have been abused pretty badly but so far they have not given me any problems. Edited June 2, 2018 by Dazhi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1eyedfatman Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 Thanks Dazhi. Will be at Doubletap Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 5 hours ago, Trinimon said: Why not just squeeze in the feed lips and replace the mag springs? What happens to a piece of sheetmetal when you bend it back and forth a few times? It breaks off. Considering the mag is only a few dollar more than a new spring, I’d just buy new mags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trinimon Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 47 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said: What happens to a piece of sheetmetal when you bend it back and forth a few times? It breaks off. Considering the mag is only a few dollar more than a new spring, I’d just buy new mags. Makes sense. These mags are pretty pricey in Canada. I wish we could buy these mags for $25! Damn it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 At 60k I would be looking into replacing the sear, as a precaution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazhi Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 19 hours ago, arkadi said: At 60k I would be looking into replacing the sear, as a precaution. Appreciate the tips. Should I have both the housing and the sear replaced, or just the sear? What kind of issues an aging sear can lead to? I assume resetting issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Just the sear. Worn out sear or/and weak sear spring leads to hammer follow / full auto in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Eventually the sear cage needs replaced too. I wouldn’tdo it annually but I’d do it at maybe 50k rounds or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 caution on just replacing the sear with that many rounds..... the sear inst the only thing that has been wearing, the hammer hooks wear as well. Just ensure if you only replace one that you still have good engagement between the sear/hook interface as they tend to mate with each other overtime. You throw in just a new sear and you may be in for a surprise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 On 6/4/2018 at 1:18 PM, arkadi said: Worn out sear or/and weak sear spring leads to hammer follow / full auto in my experience. Ok I will bite, how much for the full auto set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 About 5 yrs.----------------Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadi Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 22 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said: Ok I will bite, how much for the full auto set up? I saved the parts but its not for sale. 2-3 years with some dry fire. I was quite surprised, expected more service time. Though, the full auto version was on a CZ Shadow, and it was unreliable. 3-10 rounds then it will hung up with hammer down, IIRC. Only managed to get hammer follow out of a Stock III, no full auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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