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Steppenwolf

Unica Flat Safety Install Question Stock II

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I installed the Unica Flat Safety on my Stock II (has the PD BOLO Interrupter, BOLO pin, Titan hammer parts installed). I followed Memphis Mechanic's video (just the section on taking the safety out (the sear cage of course popped out after pulling the left side of the ambi safety off).

 

I reassembled the sear cage and installed the Unica Flat Safety and the DA and SA work, but the Unica safety only engages when the hammer is in the half-cock position. The spring end is off the notch and back into the groove in the sear cage. The safety will not go all the way up when the hammer is completely forward.

 

Anyone install this that can provide some advice?

 

Thanks

 

 

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My Unica just dropped in my stock 2 but I had to file the tabs on other safety’s slightly to get them to work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm attaching a couple of pics (one with red arrow point to contact point of Unica Flat Safety when hammer is at half cock and the safety is up ("engaged")). When the hammer is all the way forward the safety will not "get under" the part pointed to on the sear cage by the arrow. In this image the tab on the safety is able to "get under" the bar on the sear cage. Hammer forward and the tab will not "get under" the silver bar.

 

RqRivaW.jpg/
 

VgCKD2M.jpg

Edited by Steppenwolf
Typo

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I just found MM's Tanfoglio One-Piece Sear/Safety Fitting video:

 

In it he notes you may need to "shave on the underside of the silver wing" until the black cam on the safety can rotate underneath it and lock it.

In half cock the silver wing is pushed back slightly by the trigger bar and the cam easily goes under, but in hammer forward or hammer fully cocked the cam will not "get under" the underside of the sliver wing.

 

Edited by Steppenwolf
Added additional info

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If you didn’t fit your sear you’ll need to.  Mine dropped in

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11 hours ago, Steppenwolf said:

I installed the Unica Flat Safety on my Stock II (has the PD BOLO Interrupter, BOLO pin, Titan hammer parts installed). I followed Memphis Mechanic's video (just the section on taking the safety out (the sear cage of course popped out after pulling the left side of the ambi safety off).

 

I reassembled the sear cage and installed the Unica Flat Safety and the DA and SA work, but the Unica safety only engages when the hammer is in the half-cock position. The spring end is off the notch and back into the groove in the sear cage. The safety will not go all the way up when the hammer is completely forward.

 

Anyone install this that can provide some advice?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

It would appear that the prior fitting of the Titan hammer was done by adjusting the bump on the safety and not the leg on the sear.  As others have said, the safety and the sear need to be fitted when using the Titan hammer. 

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Thanks for that info.

 

All my parts were installed and tested by PD before shipping the Stock II. They were out of the Unica Flat Safety at the time and I finally got around to installing it. I do not like the large ambi safety that came with the gun.

 

I just called PD and talked to JoAnna. I know that Joe reads the forums sometimes. I'm posting a picture of the Stock II with hammer forward (Unica Flat Safety will not engage).

 

2H7d8ro.jpg

Edited by Steppenwolf

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20 minutes ago, Steppenwolf said:

Thanks for that info.

 

All my parts were installed and tested by PD before shipping the Stock II. They were out of the Unica Flat Safety at the time and I finally got around to installing it. I do not like the large ambi safety that came with the gun.

 

I just called PD and talked to JoAnna. I know that Joe reads the forums sometimes. I'm posting a picture of the Stock II with hammer forward (Unica Flat Safety will not engage).

 

2H7d8ro.jpg

These guys above where correct in saying the safety needs to be fit to the sear. You can do this one of two ways... either shave the bottom side of the left hand sear arm until the safety fits underneath.

 

Or, what we prefer to do is fit the safety to the sear by shaving material off the nub of the safety lever that fits underneath the sear arm. In either circumstance go slow and fit often, it doesn't take much.... a quick 2-3 second light pass with the dremel. 

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Thanks for the reply.

 

By looking at it with a light from a different angle I can see that when at half cock the sear arm is slightly raised and the nub easily goes under it. But at hammer forward or full cock the nub on the safety "hits" the sear arm and will not pass underneath.

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Update:

 

Thanks again to all for the help. I took Joe's advice (shaving material off the nub of the Unica Flat Safety). It took five (5) passes (going "light") before it would engage at full cock and hammer down. It is a "tad" stiffer to engage the safety when hammer is down, but works well at full cock position. I do not want to shave any more material off now that it is functional. It is for USPSA Production so safety will not be used anyway--just wanted it functional.

 

I'm going to test fire/function check it well at the range this afternoon.

Edited by Steppenwolf

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1 hour ago, Steppenwolf said:

Update:

 

Thanks again to all for the help. I took Joe's advice (shaving material off the nub of the Unica Flat Safety). It took five (5) passes (going "light") before it would engage at full cock and hammer down. It is a "tad" stiffer to engage the safety when hammer is down, but works well at full cock position. I do not want to shave any more material off now that it is functional. It is for USPSA Production so safety will not be used anyway--just wanted it functional.

 

I'm going to test fire/function check it well at the range this afternoon.

good to hear, sounds like you have it handled!

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Does anyone have a specific picture of what part of the nub do i need to take off?

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, 2muchvdos said:

Does anyone have a specific picture of what part of the nub do i need to take off?

 

tanfogliosear.jpg.b5781d29ce9b760ced293af74f1cc0f7.jpg

 

When you engage the safety it has to slide under this arm. but you want to go slow and take off the least amount of material. if you take too much off (leave a large gap) - when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger the sear will travel until this arm contacts the safety = the trigger will travel. you can assemble everything with the slide off before you take any material off this arm and push the safety on and off to see where the safety needs to slide under this arm and you will understand it easily. 

 

edit: i see you are trying to fit the safety and not the sear - sorry

Edited by Fo0
edit: i see you are trying to fit the safety and not the sear - sorry

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8 hours ago, 2muchvdos said:

Does anyone have a specific picture of what part of the nub do i need to take off?

With slide off, look at the nub. You'll see the area that has too much material and not able to rotate under short arm of sear.

Look at the posted video. It's more time consuming because you'll have to take out sear every time but I like to fit by taking off material from sear.

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19 hours ago, Fo0 said:

 

tanfogliosear.jpg.b5781d29ce9b760ced293af74f1cc0f7.jpg

 

When you engage the safety it has to slide under this arm. but you want to go slow and take off the least amount of material. if you take too much off (leave a large gap) - when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger the sear will travel until this arm contacts the safety = the trigger will travel. you can assemble everything with the slide off before you take any material off this arm and push the safety on and off to see where the safety needs to slide under this arm and you will understand it easily. 

 

edit: i see you are trying to fit the safety and not the sear - sorry

 

 

This is IMPORTANT...

 

Look at that red box.  Look close.  ONLY REMOVE material from the BOTTOM of the curve.  NONE from the front of the point. 

 

Plan on assembling, testing, disassembling then  removing a SMALL AMOUNT of material and repeating that process 10, 15, 20 times!

 

You can take off more, but you can't take off less.

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21 hours ago, johnbu said:

 

 

This is IMPORTANT...

 

Look at that red box.  Look close.  ONLY REMOVE material from the BOTTOM of the curve.  NONE from the front of the point. 

 

Plan on assembling, testing, disassembling then  removing a SMALL AMOUNT of material and repeating that process 10, 15, 20 times!

 

You can take off more, but you can't take off less.

 

I have a different take on this, coming from about 20 years of trigger jobs on all manner of semi-auto pistols. The fitting method you and MM described work, so please don't take this as saying you guys are wrong, but I've also noticed that most of you who fit the safety this way with a one piece sear and titan hammer also need to use an extended firing pin block. That happens because the titan hammer holds the rear (engagement surface) of the sear a tiny bit higher, dropping both front arms lower, which prevents the safety from engaging (before fitting) but also keeps the right arm from engaging the stock firing pin block.

 

The fitting method I prefer is to remove material from the bottom side of the large flat section at the rear of the sear. In the picture above, that is the underside of the sear at the right of the pic; this is the surface that has the little casting nub. That does not reduce sear engagment (you'd have to shorten the hammer hooks for that); instead it allows the rear of the sear to drop lower, raising the front arms to work with the stock safety and firing pin block.

 

I used this method years ago when doing trigger work on CZ and Tanfo pistols, and just a couple weeks ago when fitting the Extreme one piece sear and Titan hammer in my Stock II. On the Stock II, I ended up removing .006" from the bottom edge of the sear flat; the point where the safety engaged correctly was also the right point for the stock firing bin block to function correctly. That .006" material removed did not count the casting nub, just the flat area. 

 

Also just a tip on sear fitting - I found a small roll pin in my hardware stash that was the perfect size to use as a slave pin in my sear. It made the spring installation easy, and that roll pin is a standard size you can find at a hardware store. I'll measure it this evening if anyone is interested. 

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20 hours ago, Yondering said:

 

I have a different take on this, coming from about 20 years of trigger jobs on all manner of semi-auto pistols. The fitting method you and MM described work, so please don't take this as saying you guys are wrong, but I've also noticed that most of you who fit the safety this way with a one piece sear and titan hammer also need to use an extended firing pin block. That happens because the titan hammer holds the rear (engagement surface) of the sear a tiny bit higher, dropping both front arms lower, which prevents the safety from engaging (before fitting) but also keeps the right arm from engaging the stock firing pin block.

 

The fitting method I prefer is to remove material from the bottom side of the large flat section at the rear of the sear. In the picture above, that is the underside of the sear at the right of the pic; this is the surface that has the little casting nub. That does not reduce sear engagment (you'd have to shorten the hammer hooks for that); instead it allows the rear of the sear to drop lower, raising the front arms to work with the stock safety and firing pin block.

 

I used this method years ago when doing trigger work on CZ and Tanfo pistols, and just a couple weeks ago when fitting the Extreme one piece sear and Titan hammer in my Stock II. On the Stock II, I ended up removing .006" from the bottom edge of the sear flat; the point where the safety engaged correctly was also the right point for the stock firing bin block to function correctly. That .006" material removed did not count the casting nub, just the flat area. 

 

Also just a tip on sear fitting - I found a small roll pin in my hardware stash that was the perfect size to use as a slave pin in my sear. It made the spring installation easy, and that roll pin is a standard size you can find at a hardware store. I'll measure it this evening if anyone is interested. 

 

i should note: mine is a open gun so i took out the fpb

 

i use one safety same as my 2011

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Posted (edited)

Yeah, in that case you'd get the same result with either method, and the way you did it may be a little easier. 

Edited by Yondering

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Posted (edited)
On 6/19/2019 at 3:08 PM, Fo0 said:

i should note: mine is a open gun so i took out the fpb

 

FWIW. Extended firing pin + Federal (soft) primers + light firing pin spring + moving the gun forward before it is clear of the holster and flipping it onto the concrete = Boom if you do not have a FPB and probably only if the gun lands just right. Still have the dirty shorts. 

 

Edit: Washed shorts that were once dirty that is. There is only so far I will go for memorabilia. 

Edited by IHAVEGAS

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51 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

FWIW. Extended firing pin + Federal (soft) primers + light firing pin spring + moving the gun forward before it is clear of the holster and flipping it onto the concrete = Boom if you do not have a FPB and probably only if the gun lands just right. Still have the dirty shorts. 

 

Edit: Washed shorts that were once dirty that is. There is only so far I will go for memorabilia. 

 

I am using 15lb mainspring and have some loads with CCI primers to try - trigger pull weight still under 1.75lb

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45 minutes ago, Fo0 said:

 

I am using 15lb mainspring and have some loads with CCI primers to try - trigger pull weight still under 1.75lb

 

Did you have to stone the sear angle a bit to get trigger pull that low? The stock sear angle is pretty aggressive.

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2 minutes ago, Yondering said:

 

Did you have to stone the sear angle a bit to get trigger pull that low? The stock sear angle is pretty aggressive.

 

unica hammer and sear with henning trigger 

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Posted (edited)

Do you know if the sear angle is different than the stock or Extreme parts? The pictures look about the same, but that's just a screenshot of a computer model. 

Does your hammer retract at all during SA trigger pull (before it breaks) with the Unica parts? Mine had some definite movement with the stock parts, and less but still some with the Extreme sear and Titan hammer. 

Edited by Yondering

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On 6/18/2019 at 6:32 PM, Yondering said:

 

I have a different take on this, coming from about 20 years of trigger jobs on all manner of semi-auto pistols. The fitting method you and MM described work, so please don't take this as saying you guys are wrong, but I've also noticed that most of you who fit the safety this way with a one piece sear and titan hammer also need to use an extended firing pin block. That happens because the titan hammer holds the rear (engagement surface) of the sear a tiny bit higher, dropping both front arms lower, which prevents the safety from engaging (before fitting) but also keeps the right arm from engaging the stock firing pin block.

 

The fitting method I prefer is to remove material from the bottom side of the large flat section at the rear of the sear. In the picture above, that is the underside of the sear at the right of the pic; this is the surface that has the little casting nub. That does not reduce sear engagment (you'd have to shorten the hammer hooks for that); instead it allows the rear of the sear to drop lower, raising the front arms to work with the stock safety and firing pin block.

 

I used this method years ago when doing trigger work on CZ and Tanfo pistols, and just a couple weeks ago when fitting the Extreme one piece sear and Titan hammer in my Stock II. On the Stock II, I ended up removing .006" from the bottom edge of the sear flat; the point where the safety engaged correctly was also the right point for the stock firing bin block to function correctly. That .006" material removed did not count the casting nub, just the flat area. 

 

Also just a tip on sear fitting - I found a small roll pin in my hardware stash that was the perfect size to use as a slave pin in my sear. It made the spring installation easy, and that roll pin is a standard size you can find at a hardware store. I'll measure it this evening if anyone is interested. 

 

 

Huh,  learn something new everyday.  that method is one I hadn't thought about, probably as I try to stay away from the sear engagement side of things.  That is an area where experience and the correct tooling are important.  Anyway,   Thanks for bringing it up!

 

One point,  the Tanfo sears are only thinly surface hardened.  removing the bottom material ... do you think it will let the sear wear faster? 

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