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Out of Spec Win brass rims?


RickT

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Dillon 1050/Mark 7, but posted here since specific to 9mm brass.  Every 400 rounds or so I have a case fail to smoothly enter the shell plate.  90% of the time it's Win brass and while I haven't checked recently I'm sure this brass represents less than 20% of my frequently-fired brass.  Is there anything unusual about the rim dimensions on this brass?  I've seen posts around the interweb complaining about extraction problems with this brass and I can't see how I'd be unique in having this case feed problem with this brand.

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650 hand fed 90% Glock fired and I began tossing all the WIN brass years ago, tough to insert into shell plate and worse to remove. Heck with checking dimensions when this amount of “WIN” brass simply does not work. Spinning the case trying to insert does not help so I don’t think it’s the firearm but I’ll keep an eye on this thread.
Good luck OP.

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Shell holder?

 

I don't use a Dillon buy I've never had an issue with pistol brass (any caliber) in Lee/RCBS shell holders.

 

I do have issues with PPU and a couple other foreign .223/5.56X45 brass in both Lee and RCBS shell holders.  That brass is made different.  Even this brass chambers/extracts/ejects 100% from my AR15's.

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9 hours ago, superdude said:

This first. Personally never had issues with Win brass in my 650 or in any Glock. You might mark the location on the shell plate when you have a problem and see if that location is the culprit. And be sure to look for grit, media, etc. on the plate. Basic approach to a Dillon related problem is to clean, tune, lube.

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10 minutes ago, ironpony said:

FYI ... I have no difficulties at the range just the reloading. Only win brass and each slot in the shell plate gives same results. Hoping more than two people have seen/believe this.

This might be a tough one to solve but you came to the right place.

 

Like Superdude said, you might start by measuring pertinent parts of the brass and compare with brass that runs well. Keep track of the numbers because you never know when they might be useful down the road. OTOH, the problem is infrequent enough that you might not pick up any significant variation until you measure a ton of them and not just 10 or 20.

 

Examine the guilty brass to see if it is seriously dinged up.

 

You might just run Win rather than mixed headstamps and see if the problem only arises when you have Win in one location and Brand x in another.  i.e. canting

 

And make sure your shell plate is properly tightened down since canting of the plate - for whatever reason - can cause a case to get wedged in.

 

But if you have a problem with certain brass, aren't all that excited about trouble shooting, and can live with some ambiguity in your life ... don't use that brass.

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This might be a tough one to solve but you came to the right place.
 
Like Superdude said, you might start by measuring pertinent parts of the brass and compare with brass that runs well. Keep track of the numbers because you never know when they might be useful down the road. OTOH, the problem is infrequent enough that you might not pick up any significant variation until you measure a ton of them and not just 10 or 20.
 
Examine the guilty brass to see if it is seriously dinged up.
 
You might just run Win rather than mixed headstamps and see if the problem only arises when you have Win in one location and Brand x in another.  i.e. canting
 
And make sure your shell plate is properly tightened down since canting of the plate - for whatever reason - can cause a case to get wedged in.
 
But if you have a problem with certain brass, aren't all that excited about trouble shooting, and can live with some ambiguity in your life ... don't use that brass.

Yup, I toss the brass. If I had the shell plate in my hand alone the brass will not insert, like the brass groove is too small. Too much other brass on hand to worry about it and current factory ammo prices also defer my worries :)

Thanks all
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