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jcc7x7
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I understand I will have to mill/file the slide for a larger optic if used.

Is the bolt and lug pattern the same as any other optic.

Are there any plates available yet for changing problably to a DPP

Thanks for the help

Neil

Edited by jcc7x7
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  • 1 month later...
On 5/17/2018 at 9:07 PM, bossgvr4 said:

Bolt pattern is the same for the Leupold Deltapoint Pro and Vortex Venom. For the DPP you have to mill 2mmtowards the muzzle end of the existing footprint.

 

 

A Vortex Venom would fit without any extra milling?

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  • 2 weeks later...

bolt patern may be the same don't KNOW if the bosses are the same.

Also don't know if there are bosses on the RX.

Thinking there is NOt since the cut is a sort of dove tail and is designed to slide in from the side.

ETC ETC

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  • 3 months later...
27 minutes ago, terrydoc said:

will a delta point fit? don't know if they are a different size to the pro?

You have to file/mill a few mm's off the front (breech side) of the opening.

You are better off getting a Romeo 1 with a 6moa dot if you can.

I put a DDP on my RX it's a great sight, 

I put a Romeo 1 6 moa on my  x-5 it is a Greater sight.

Both are good if you already have the DDP use it with out concern.

If you still have not bought a sight get the Romeo 1 6moa.  The 3moa do not cut it BUT the 6moa is bright and clear on the most sunny day.

Good fortune

Neil

IMG_20181122_153934354.jpg

Edited by jcc7x7
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I have an RX and haven't had much luck with the R1. The first one cracked and the second switches off under unloaded cycling of the slid, I know the battery cap tightness has something to do with it but cant get it any tighter without damaging the cap which I have already had to send for replacement..

Would it be easier to take the mm off the DP rather than the slide??

Edited by terrydoc
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22 hours ago, terrydoc said:

I have an RX and haven't had much luck with the R1. The first one cracked and the second switches off under unloaded cycling of the slid, I know the battery cap tightness has something to do with it but cant get it any tighter without damaging the cap which I have already had to send for replacement..

Would it be easier to take the mm off the DP rather than the slide??

My concern with taking material off the DPP is voiding the warranty on an item that we all know sooner or later has a high probability of failing.

All red dots do.  Yes I know the slide can fail also and it is more expensive than the sight.

I decided on the slide because I've milled a bunch of slides for several reasons. Sights, lightening and red dots.

So taking a couple of mm's off the front edge seemed like an easy solution.

I actually carefully filed mine.  Obviously you want to fit the sight in there very often as you take material off.

Neil

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/23/2018 at 1:17 PM, jcc7x7 said:

My concern with taking material off the DPP is voiding the warranty on an item that we all know sooner or later has a high probability of failing.

All red dots do.  Yes I know the slide can fail also and it is more expensive than the sight.

I decided on the slide because I've milled a bunch of slides for several reasons. Sights, lightening and red dots.

So taking a couple of mm's off the front edge seemed like an easy solution.

I actually carefully filed mine.  Obviously you want to fit the sight in there very often as you take material off.

Neil

 

Who did you use to mill the slide and what screws did you use as the R1 screws are a smaller diameter than the DPP screws.  Did you have the slide work include re-drilling and tapping the holes?

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11 minutes ago, 2ndtimearound said:

 

Who did you use to mill the slide and what screws did you use as the R1 screws are a smaller diameter than the DPP screws.  Did you have the slide work include re-drilling and tapping the holes?

OK let me start by saying I use files all the time at work and I'm good with them.

I filed the front of my RX slide until the DPP just fit. .0005 gap between the sight and the filed area.

Then put some cold bluing on with oil covering it a couple of times.  Then wiped the oil off.

I used a 3 flute tap to clean out the holes, then a 4 flute bottom tap to make sure they were taped all the way down.

Then installed the LONGER screws. Going by memory they were .350 long.

There are a couple of threads about how long they have to be here on BENOS.

 

My gun with the DPP has about 2k on it with the above DPP with no issues of movement or change of zero. Shot it Saturday after about a month in the safe no problems.

(been shooting the X-5 more lately but I shoot the RX better with the large grip module!!!)

I did blue Loctite the screws.

 

Any small machine shop should be able to milled it for you, find a local job shop and get it done, if you don't feel comfortable with filing it.

 

Good fortune, you'll like the DPP.  IF you don't already have a DPP get a SIG Romeo 1 6moa dot, it fits and is a better sight, the 3moa's wash out in the sun FWIW.

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I have an r1 3moa and 6moa. 3 moa took a crap and was never bright enough. 6moa is too bright or too dim and looks like a Potato. I had a friend who has a CNC cut my X5 slide. He made it contour to the dpp’s front curve and there is no side to side movement when not screwed in. Otherwise, the rear and screw holes lined up perfectly. 

 

I got the  6-48 x 3/4" Weaver Oval Head Refill pack 

I had to cut the screwes to the correct length. These were the only screws long enough that I could find anywhere. The down side is they are only in flat head. I used my wheeler tourque driver and didn’t strip them at 25 in/lb. 1,000+ rounds and everything is holding up great. Love the DPP 2.5 moa over any Romeo. 

 

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/small-hardware/metal-screws/long-6-48-8-40-screws-prod19929.aspx

 

 

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