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bigdawgbeav

Canki TP9 SFx Trigger Upgrade

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FreedomSmithUSA is close to releasing a trigger upgrade for the SFx.  Reduces all that take up.  Here is a video from Frank Xu with the prototype:

 

 

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VERY odd trigger safety.

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On 4/24/2018 at 11:44 AM, Magsz said:

VERY odd trigger safety.

It is a bit odd. It looks like you could miss it if you put your finger a little low on the trigger but I will still give it a shot.

If you just want to reduce takeup, you can do that by putting a pin or small set screw over the trigger bar in the slot cut for it in the trigger (kind of like a Lone Wolf UAT for the Glock) or put a shim or set screw on the front of the trigger where it meets the frame. Either requires modifying the trigger safety blade a little as it has a lot of contact area with the frame and will not disengage with short takeup unless you shave it down some. 

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SO, not a USPSA "legal" mod????....

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3 hours ago, mike NM said:

SO, not a USPSA "legal" mod????....

 

Are you out of touch on the 2018 rule changes? As of May 1, all aftermarket hammers and safeties and triggers are now Production legal. Run a race hammer in your CZ, or an APEX trigger in your plastic gun.

 

(Yes, this post is 100% fact, and 0% joke.)

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Wow, that trigger pull looked incredible. Especially on a $450 gun...

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All aftermarket triggers now legal in Production, no matter how odd looking or material made from.

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6 hours ago, JRM83 said:

Wow, that trigger pull looked incredible. Especially on a $450 gun...

I have one in mine and yes it is amazing. Worth every bit of the $75 I paid for it.

IMG_20180603_161917.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Here is a short video of mine after the upgrade.  It is amazing.  And the design of the trigger is perfect.  I was missing the original trigger safety on a few occasions.  I'm dead on every time with this one.

 

 

Edited by bigdawgbeav

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Posted (edited)

Tonight I got my trigger down to 2lbs ? trigger out of the box was 4.25 lbs. First I did the usual things like polishing the trigger bar, 6.5 lb Ghost Glock striker spring, Ghost Glock reduced weight firing pin plunger spring, and fitted a Gen 3 captured Glock 17/34 stainless recoil rod using a Gen 4 adapter and 15lb recoil spring. The recoil rod assembly was just so it would cycle my 132 pf ammo. The trigger broke at 3.5 lbs after running 100 through the gun. Pretty good but not there yet. So just one more spring change dropped it to 2lbs even. The trigger return spring is the key to a very light trigger pull, First I pulled apart a clicker ballpoint pen, cut and bent the spring to the right length and then tested it. 2lbs was the magic number, so since I had some old Wolff firing pin springs lying around I cut and bent one of those and got the same pull weight. The Wolff spring should last like the factory one but I decided to make another with the same coil count as a spare just in case I needed it.  The Freedom Smith trigger safety has a light spring, probably around 1.75 or 1.5 lbs , but you still have to make sure your finger hits the safety correctly or the trigger will move back enough and not clear the tab on the safety. Gonna test it tomorrow ?

Edited by MrPostman

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Didn't get to test before the match today but the gun ran great, only problems I had was making sure my finger hit the trigger safety before pulling the trigger. I found that I tend to hit the first joint of my finger on the side of the wide trigger causing the trigger to pull far enough to keep the trigger safety from clearing the frame. So I will just have to dry fire until my muscle memory is corrected, and if that doesn't work then I will just mill the sides of the trigger so that it is thinner. FYI the return spring works perfectly so 2lb triggers are doable.

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On 6/9/2018 at 4:04 PM, MrPostman said:

Didn't get to test before the match today but the gun ran great, only problems I had was making sure my finger hit the trigger safety before pulling the trigger. I found that I tend to hit the first joint of my finger on the side of the wide trigger causing the trigger to pull far enough to keep the trigger safety from clearing the frame. So I will just have to dry fire until my muscle memory is corrected, and if that doesn't work then I will just mill the sides of the trigger so that it is thinner. FYI the return spring works perfectly so 2lb triggers are doable.

I have the same problem with the stock TP9SFX. I have to pay attention to how I rest my finger on the trigger or I don't press the safety properly. I'm getting one of the new triggers tomorrow so hopefully it will work better for me.

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Did some load testing today and found that the loads I used at the match which were making 132 pf out of my CZ Shadow were making 139 pf out of the Canik.

That load is 3.2 grains titegroup, 147 grain xtreme rn, cci spp @ 1.135 OAL. 

 

Temp was 90f, 400ft above sea level, 70% humidity.

 

The ones that hit the power factor of 130 were:

3.2 grains W231, 147 gr xtreme rn, cci spp @ 1.140 OAL.  Avg fps: 888

4.1 grains W231, 124 gr xtreme FP, cci spp @ 1.100.  Avg fps: 1051

 

Accuracy was excellent with the 124s, very good with the 147s.

 

Titegroup loads were 138 pf and above so those would need to be reduced.

I'm going to start with:

3.0 gr, 147 xtreme rn, cci spp @ 1.145 - 1.150

3.4 gr 135 xtreme rnfp, cci spp @ 1.145 - 1.150

3.7 gr 124 xtreme FP, cci spp @ 1.100

 

I am guessing these will hit the magic number.

 

I had one that was 123 pf and it did cycle the slide which amazed me. Of course ejection was about 6 inches from the gun but it shot and ejected all 5 rounds.  I did a better job on the trigger today after a bunch of dryfire. 

 

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, 1steelshooter said:

I have the same problem with the stock TP9SFX. I have to pay attention to how I rest my finger on the trigger or I don't press the safety properly. I'm getting one of the new triggers tomorrow so hopefully it will work better for me.

 

The Freedomsmith trigger helped me with the trigger safety.  I found myself missing the safety on the original trigger.

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, MrPostman said:

Loads making 132 pf out of my CZ Shadow were making 139 pf out of the Canik.

 

Well the two guns are otherwise similar, makes sense that they are similarly fast:

 

A load good for 132pf in a 4.25 M&P and 134 in a 5” Tanfoglio? Made 138 out of my Walther Q5 match.

 

This crop of European guns all seem to have shorter chambers and faster barrels.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Posted (edited)

Actually the chamber on the Canik will allow 1.170" with a 147 gr round nose type bullet. The Flat points are .059" shorter than the 147 so they still drop in and spin @ 1.110" due to the generous throat in the factory barrel. The Canik barrel is 5.2" vs 4.75" for the CZ so that may account for the extra velocity and increased PF.

 

This one is loaded @ 1.105" 

IMG_20180611_204333.jpg

Edited by MrPostman

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Got the trigger (E bay)... Installed and shot in competition Tues. night.... A definite improvement to an already good platform.... Mods are, 6.5 Glock striker spring,  15 #  flat  wire recoil spring on captured Glock gen 3 guide rod ( 13# was a little weak at times) ., ( I have the Springco set up also, can't say I'm a big fan???), internal polishing,  Shooting 115 painted lead bullet @ + power factor (lots of recoil)... Will go back to 147''s soon.... 6 moa Vortex Venom is doing well.... I can't see that you could have  a more competitive CO  gun for the $$$$ invested in the Canik.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mike NM said:

Got the trigger (E bay)... Installed and shot in competition Tues. night.... A definite improvement to an already good platform.... Mods are, 6.5 Glock striker spring,  15 #  flat  wire recoil spring on captured Glock gen 3 guide rod ( 13# was a little weak at times) ., ( I have the Springco set up also, can't say I'm a big fan???), internal polishing,  Shooting 115 painted lead bullet @ + power factor (lots of recoil)... Will go back to 147''s soon.... 6 moa Vortex Venom is doing well.... I can't see that you could have  a more competitive CO  gun for the $$$$ invested in the Canik.

 

Yep it's a very well thought out package on the cheap. The 13lb spring is too light IMO for reliable feeding, maybe a 14lb if they make one?

I put the small grip panel back on mine and that made the length of pull perfect for my medium sized hands. Dryfire trigger finger placement is automatic now, we will see if it holds when I shoot my next match. I have about 3 matches worth of 124s loaded until I can test some more 135s and 147s. I may end up trying some 165s with about 2.6 grains of titegroup and see how it goes.

Edited by MrPostman

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2 hours ago, Weapon said:

Fun mod for the SFX...a bit of tungsten:

 

6C665A71-25BC-4131-95E3-BDD1274EE178.jpeg

 

where did you find those?

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, bigdawgbeav said:

 

where did you find those?

 

Look on amazon - tungsten weights. The top ones are 1/4" diameter and the lower ones are 3/8" diameter. Try to find tungsten that is over 99% pure. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby. they may have pinewood derby car weights that are tungsten - those can also be found on amazon and likely eBay as well. 

 

You do have to mod the backstrap and the frame slightly to make them fit. Basically just gut out the center studs and cross-supports on the backstrap's hollow side. From there, just wrap the weights in 220 grit and slide them back and forth in the grooves already cut in the back of the frame until the weights will sink low enough for the backstrap to close over them and line up with the roll pin hole at the bottom. The top ones are fairly easy to fit as the pre-existing notches are almost wide enough and deep enough for them to go in. The bottom ones which are 3/8" diameter require some effort. If you know anyone with a mill and a 3/8" ball cutter, it would take about a minute to make both cuts to depth. No such luck for me on that weekend so I used a 3/8" diameter grinding bit on a dremel  for the bottom weights and very carefully increased the depth until I could get the backstrap just not quite closed over them. Then I very lightly sanded the rough cuts with 400grit wrapped around the 3/8" weight to get the last bit of extra clearance. There is still a lot of material separating the weights from the magazine when it is inserted but it would be fairly hard to cut too deeply. You can constantly check your depth while you are doing the work by looking up the mag well with a small penlight and see exactly how deep the weights are sitting.  

 

If you want to keep them from rattling around but not make it permanent, you can also order tungsten putty. You can  put a small amount of the putty around the weights and in the backstrap and then squeeze it shut over the weights. I went over the top and used MarineTex that I loaded with 99.99% pure tungsten powder. 

 

Despite having large hands, the small backstrap lets the pistol point more naturally for me. The downside is there is less room for the weight but it was still pretty easy. I got 3oz crammed in the small backstrap without too much effort. I could likely get 3.75oz in the large backstrap but 2.75-3.0oz made the SFX balance perfectly for me. Unloaded with an empty mag inserted, the balance point is now directly under the tip of the trigger. It now feels oddly CZish in terms of balance.  

That little weight mod combined with a Freedomsmith trigger and a few other upgrades works wonders for the SFX. It is good out of the box but with the FS trigger, the weight mod and a little other tuning here and there, it has some real teeth. 

Edited by Weapon

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On 6/9/2018 at 7:04 PM, MrPostman said:

Didn't get to test before the match today but the gun ran great, only problems I had was making sure my finger hit the trigger safety before pulling the trigger. I found that I tend to hit the first joint of my finger on the side of the wide trigger causing the trigger to pull far enough to keep the trigger safety from clearing the frame. So I will just have to dry fire until my muscle memory is corrected, and if that doesn't work then I will just mill the sides of the trigger so that it is thinner. FYI the return spring works perfectly so 2lb triggers are doable.

 

The main problems with the trigger are the back of the trigger safety where it goes through the frame and the firing pin block safety. I took a small file and cleaned up the 2 flat edges of the trigger safety behind the trigger, not enough to change the function, just to smooth it up. This also eliminates the problem of difficulty pulling the trigger some guys have had from getting too much finger on it. 
If you work the trigger action without the slide you will notice how smooth it is. All the grit comes from the movement of the FPBS in the channel and against the trigger bar. I polished the FPBS itself at length, the walls of the channel and the top of the trigger bar. It is as good now as any aftermarket trigger I've tested. People talk about changing the trigger to shorten the pre-travel. I see no need. The PT allows me to stage the trigger as I come out of the holster/onto the target and I will only deal with it once in a course of fire. Now mind you, I am talking about competition, Tactical Timmies make me laugh. :P

 

 

 

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Weapon.... Were you able to get the 1/4" and the 3/8" weights in one package???.... (I checked all mentioned source's  everywhere I could and  didn't find such packaging)..... If you did ??? can you give a part # out.... This will be my next mod.... Mike

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12 minutes ago, mike NM said:

Weapon.... Were you able to get the 1/4" and the 3/8" weights in one package???.... (I checked all mentioned source's  everywhere I could and  didn't find such packaging)..... If you did ??? can you give a part # out.... This will be my next mod.... Mike

Search for derby car tungsten weights and you should find them. 

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Posted (edited)

HoMie,...That I did... The best package I could find anywhere, didn't have both sizes... 3/8" is the most popular for the "pinewood" cars .... I don't see spending $50.00 +  for this mod. to get 2 sizes.......In one of the pictures you can see a label, even that "source" is not listing both 1/4" and 3/8" in one package on their website????...

Edited by mike NM
spelling

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