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Ruger Revolver Triggers?


jkrispies

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ruger GP series respond well to polishing and shims. I put a slightly lighter trigger return spring in it, and with the hammer strut springs I have one on a separate strut that I go lighter on and only use Federal primers, and get a 6.5 to 7lb trigger. The other one that sets off CCI and everything else, including magnum primers, gets me an 8.25lb trigger.

 

Still a little stagey, but it's smoothing out there too.

Edited by daytona955i
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Is there a trick to getting rid of the staging in a GP 100?  I have a 6 inch which is polished has a reduced spring and both the hammer and trigger are shimmed:  it is really smooth and light... I hate the back "wall".  Why is it there and how does one make it go away?  My SRH in 454 was cut to 4.5 and has the same treatment minus the light springs.  The smith had to lengthen the DA dog a bit as the trigger would bind in DA... whatever he did got rid of the Ruger back wall in the trigger stroke.  Its an even, smooth pull from start to break.   I shoot the GP 100 single action out to 150 yards, but never shoot it DA as the wall ( though thin) drives me crazy!

I have a 610 that I carry sometimes, but hate using a semi rare piece as a carry piece.  I was tempted by the GP 100 in 10mm ( if it will use smith moonclips of which I have a bunch), but if it has the Ruger back wall, I'll pass.  I took a pass on the 7 shot GP 100 for the same reason.  If I knew how to get rid of it, I'd be much more interested.

Any thoughts?

Jason

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The only "wall" I've felt is on the Redhawk single spring actions, which have a noticeable speed bump in the DA cycle.  Awesome design for stout loads, but not as easy to master.  In the SRH/GP two spring guns I haven't experienced that "wall".  I check them with a digital trigger pull gauge to make sure it reaches peak load and then goes all the way through the cycle.  

 

What you might be feeling is an early cylinder lockup compared to other revolvers.  My S&Ws have always been timed to lockup just before the hammer drops, all the Rugers I have will lockup quite early in comparison.  Try pulling the trigger with the cylinder swung out and see if you feel the same "wall".  You'll need to manually press on the cylinder latch in order to pull the trigger with the cylinder out.  If you still feel this effect when your pawl doesn't have to rotate the cylinder then I'm guessing the trigger/hammer parts are not correctly fit.

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I may be mis-using the term "wall".   On my smiths, and on the reworked Super Redhawk, from start to finish of the double action pull is even and has no stop until hammer fall.  On the GP 100,  9/10's of the way through the stroke, just before break is a stop which  stages the trigger, if you permit the catch to stop your stroke.  Instead of "wall"  I'll call it a hitch/ natural staging point... I hate it!  Is this staging point what you are thinking is caused by the cylinder lockup?

I'll try pushing in the cylinder latch and see if it goes away!

Thank you!

Jason

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I’ve experienced this before with some Rugers (particularly the SP101). A competent smith can get rid of it for you. Could be anything from a burr on the sear edge to a slightly out of spec part of the trigger group. Rubbing of the transfer bar, etc. Try mojo custom guns, Bowen classic arms, a number of others. 

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Ruger454,

You were correct! What I'm feeling is the cylinder lock up. With the cylinder out of the window, the stroke is very Smith like!  Thanks!

( How do I make it go away?)

Jason

 

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12 hours ago, Makicjf said:

Ruger454,

You were correct! What I'm feeling is the cylinder lock up. With the cylinder out of the window, the stroke is very Smith like!  Thanks!

( How do I make it go away?)

Jason

 

 

lots of tiny files, a patient hand, and the knowledge and know how to readjust the extractor timing to better suit your liking. 

Edited by alecmc
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1 hour ago, alecmc said:

 

lots of tiny files, a patient hand, and the knowledge and know how to readjust the extractor timing to better suit your liking. 

This^^

 

Pawl adjustments are very sensitive so I'd recommend covering the pawl in dykem and dryfiring for a while.  You will see the wear pattern develop and that is helpful to determine what needs adjustment.  I actually prefer how early the Ruger guns lock up so I refit a new hand in my 929 when I first got it.  Now all of my competition revolvers feel about the same.

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  • 4 weeks later...

My MC did that too, really smooth then a sudden stack at the end. When I first got it it went back to Ruger because the trigger would bottom out and stick because the timing was off. They took a little off the top of the  pawl and sent it back. It helped that, but I feel a little more off the top would help, as what's happening is the cylinder is still pushing against the latch in the last part of the trigger stroke.

 

I should probably send it back again and also have them polish the cylinder as cases do not drop freely.

Edited by daytona955i
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You want to take the material off the left side of the hand, not the top. You want the hand to stay full length. You can also make a softer transition if you just barely round off the corners of the ratchets where the hand changes from turning the cylinder to sliding up alongside the ratchet. A slight edge break on the top left corner of the hand will help too. 

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I agree with Warren, it is very uncommon that you would need to reduce the pawl height on a Ruger.  I've worked on at least six Ruger DAs and never had to touch that dimension.  The two most common locations are at the side of the pawl which contact the ratchet, and adjusting the angle it makes into the pawl window.  You want it forward enough that it operates smoothly, but do not let it protrude out of the window.  You can lock up the gun that way if you reload the cylinder and the pawl makes contact with a certain portion of the ratchet. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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