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Tattoo

Milling a slide for CO or get an MOS?

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Pricey, but I have found the Unity Atom slides to be the best option. If you shoot enough, you will break optics. Having the ability to quickly swap them out, or try something different, all while having a very concrete mounting system was worth it to me. I am not a fan of the MOS mounting system. Milling is fine if someone reputable does it.

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Is there any way to use a different plate or something and get the optic lower in a Gen 5 MOS ??

 

T

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On 5/10/2018 at 5:54 AM, MAJmorgan said:

If you decide to go with MOS... DO NOT use Loctite on the screws!  Last night I was getting a pair of G19MOS' ready to sell...removed optic and plate from one, no problem.  2nd gun had been coming loose while shooting, so had used Loctite on all 4 screws... holy smokes... almost ruined the dot getting it off, but at least those screws use decent size bits.  The MOS plate was almost impossible to remove, broke 5 tiny Torx T6 bits before resorting to Dremel, cut slots across top of each screw and finally removed with a flathead screwdriver.  NO LOCTITE!

 

 

You need heat to soften loctite if you’d have used a torch or soldering iron you’d have not had any issues. 

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On 7/15/2018 at 7:04 PM, crofrog said:

 

 

You need heat to soften loctite if you’d have used a torch or soldering iron you’d have not had any issues. 

In my attempt to remove the MOS Mounting plate, I hit both screws with a torch until the slide was too hot to handle...repeatedly... they wouldn't budge.  A T5 bit has very little purchase.  Sold both MOS guns and bought dedicated milled slides, leaving only a pair of #6-32 x 3/8 screws to manage, installed with the much stronger T10 Torx.  IMO the downside to the MOS is that you're dealing with 4 tiny, fragile short screws vs a pair of larger, stronger screws.  I was lucky to not snap the heads off the MOS mounting screws during removal, because I don't have the ability to drill & tap a slide.  The main advantage of the MOS system is that you can use different dots... but in reality, if you want to Loctite the system in place to prevent shifting, you're committed to a single dot in the event you're unable to remove the MOS plate... so might as well just get a milled slide.  That's been my experience, anyway, YMMV.

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On 7/30/2018 at 8:48 AM, MAJmorgan said:

In my attempt to remove the MOS Mounting plate, I hit both screws with a torch until the slide was too hot to handle...repeatedly... they wouldn't budge.  A T5 bit has very little purchase.  Sold both MOS guns and bought dedicated milled slides, leaving only a pair of #6-32 x 3/8 screws to manage, installed with the much stronger T10 Torx.  IMO the downside to the MOS is that you're dealing with 4 tiny, fragile short screws vs a pair of larger, stronger screws.  I was lucky to not snap the heads off the MOS mounting screws during removal, because I don't have the ability to drill & tap a slide.  The main advantage of the MOS system is that you can use different dots... but in reality, if you want to Loctite the system in place to prevent shifting, you're committed to a single dot in the event you're unable to remove the MOS plate... so might as well just get a milled slide.  That's been my experience, anyway, YMMV.

I assume you were using red loctite since you needed to apply heat?  Does just blue loctite hold well enough instead?  

 

T

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On 7/31/2018 at 5:31 PM, Tattoo said:

I assume you were using red loctite since you needed to apply heat?  Does just blue loctite hold well enough instead?  

 

T

LOL no, that was blue Loctite 242, and it definitely holds well enough!

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I just bought an mos.  

 

I want to try CO for a few matches at the end of the year. I thought it was easier than getting slide milled for DPP and FCS and refinished. Seems like the places I checked out to do the work all are several weeks out and only offer FCS that are more tacticool than practical. 

 

Though, I'm still Gonna want FCS so,... I guess I didn't think it thru very well. Ha ha. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by B_RAD

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@B_RAD when do you ever? :D

 

Dude just buys gun after gun, I swear...

 

My PPQ slide shipped out to the machinist this afternoon. If he comes through, I may have a place which can do some VERY practical FCS’s. The kind which also strip enough weight that adding the weight of the dot won’t slow the slide down. We’ll see!

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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On 8/9/2018 at 2:56 PM, B_RAD said:

I just bought an mos.  

 

I want to try CO for a few matches at the end of the year. I thought it was easier than getting slide milled for DPP and FCS and refinished. Seems like the places I checked out to do the work all are several weeks out and only offer FCS that are more tacticool than practical. 

 

Though, I'm still Gonna want FCS so,... I guess I didn't think it thru very well. Ha ha. 

 

 

 

 

 

I just got an G34 MOS to try CO out too.  If I am into It I can mill a slide on a gun I already own.  

 

T

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With the DP Pro, it seems like I am breaking more optics with the MOS and Walther Q5 multi optic mount systems than with direct milled installations. My theory is a direct milled installation, like what Primary does, supports the optic better. Two buddies are having similar experiences. 

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4 hours ago, GJM said:

With the DP Pro, it seems like I am breaking more optics with the MOS and Walther Q5 multi optic mount systems than with direct milled installations. My theory is a direct milled installation, like what Primary does, supports the optic better. Two buddies are having similar experiences. 

Could you explain what and how it's breaking?

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On 8/9/2018 at 5:06 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

@B_RAD when do you ever? :D

 

Dude just buys gun after gun, I swear...

 

My PPQ slide shipped out to the machinist this afternoon. If he comes through, I may have a place which can do some VERY practical FCS’s. The kind which also strip enough weight that adding the weight of the dot won’t slow the slide down. We’ll see!

 

I had a second slide milled with a Burris and it weighs the same as my production slide.  

Screenshot_20180815-081840.png

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Another factor that may be an issue for some is the closer to the bore, the less parallax you will have shooting at varying distances.

I shoot matches where ranges can be anywhere from 10 to 50 yards.

When I was using high mounted Ultradot Matchdot, I would have to adjust down 4-5 clicks going from 10 to 25 yards.

Now with my slide milled RMR so close to the bore no adjustments needed. Shooting 357 Sig.

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On 8/15/2018 at 7:06 AM, B_RAD said:

Could you explain what and how it's breaking?

 

Dot goes intermittent, ultimately completely fails. 

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You could get a unity atom slide as a third option, I personally have my slides milled and like how low it sits, one problem ive had with mos slides is not enough thread bite on the mounting screws because of the plate and the optic sitting so high.

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18 minutes ago, schaet said:

If it's done right the stand-offs are milled for the mount screws and threaded alleviating this problem: 

Insert existing attachment

rmr milling.png

 

 

Yes jagerworks I believe does this as well. 

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I'm working on getting my CO setup together and have decided on a DPP, so I'll be going the milled route to get the dot a little closer to the slide.

 

That being said, I tried out a squadmates MOS with a DPP and the extra height wasn't nearly as big a deal as I thought it would be. Basically, I believe it comes down to whether you plan on sticking with one particular optic or not. Resale on an MOS vs milled may be something to consider too.

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midway got slide from swenson that are pre milled for burris n vortex or  brownell for rmr for under $200, that way your og slide remains in tack if u get tired of co division

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I personally like the slightly lower fitting of a milled slide for slide mounted RMR's

 

That being said, its not much of a difference and the MOS system isnt bad at all.

 

Dealers choice on this one, whatever makes more financial sense.

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I’m going with the dovetail mount for starters, to see if CO is something I’ll shoot from time to time.  

I’ll go the milled aftermarket slide if I enjoy it.  

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What are the good brands for dovetail mounts out there? Anyone have a particular favorite?

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