littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Hello, Pretty excited. Im on a 10 day waiting period for an SP01 which I suspect I will be moving to production with. Ive already ordered the cajun gun works goodies but have never worked on CZ's. Im pretty familiar with the 1911 platform and have all the basics for that stones, sear jig, etc. Anything a must have for working on CZ's ? Already ordered a starter punch from CGW as well and a the smaller roll pin punch sizes Any must haves that will make life easier ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 A sight pusher? I don’t like to hammer on/off sights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 A sight pusher? I don’t like to hammer on/off sights. I have one of the ncstar ones. Hopefully it works. Works great for glock slides but It was a bit more of a pain with a 1911 slide Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) 52 minutes ago, littlewing6283 said: I have one of the ncstar ones. Hopefully it works. Works great for glock slides but It was a bit more of a pain with a 1911 slide Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Is it able to accommodate CZ slides? I use the MGW Pro Sight tool and works well. Also check out the CZ 101 post by KneelingAtlas, good stuff with minimal tools. Edited March 10, 2018 by HI5-O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 1 minute ago, HI5-O said: Is it able to accommodate CZ slides? I use the MGW Pro Sight tool and works well. it should. its supposed to be "universal" one thing that seems initimidating about working on these is all the springs. so many springs everywhere hahahahha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 52 minutes ago, littlewing6283 said: it should. its supposed to be "universal" one thing that seems initimidating about working on these is all the springs. so many springs everywhere hahahahha they will be part of your furniture . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 1 hour ago, littlewing6283 said: it should. its supposed to be "universal" one thing that seems initimidating about working on these is all the springs. so many springs everywhere hahahahha Don't worry, you will find them with your bare feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 well I guess I have to find them somehow unless I do all my work inside a gallon sized zip lock bag hahahhaha I went over Atlas items and it was pretty detailed. Doesnt seem too hard. Im just not a fan of roll pins but I will learn to love them Anyone have any idea how much fitting will be involved to install a CGW SRS-2 kit with the Reach reduction kit type 2, also putting int he race hammer with adjustable sear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) 10 minutes ago, littlewing6283 said: well I guess I have to find them somehow unless I do all my work inside a gallon sized zip lock bag hahahhaha I went over Atlas items and it was pretty detailed. Doesnt seem too hard. Im just not a fan of roll pins but I will learn to love them Anyone have any idea how much fitting will be involved to install a CGW SRS-2 kit with the Reach reduction kit type 2, also putting int he race hammer with adjustable sear ATLAS items are huge compare to CZ parts and springs. and mine cz don't have roll pins . if u have lathe prepare slave pins , and small tweezers will be your best friends. Edited March 10, 2018 by yigal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 1 hour ago, littlewing6283 said: well I guess I have to find them somehow unless I do all my work inside a gallon sized zip lock bag hahahhaha I went over Atlas items and it was pretty detailed. Doesnt seem too hard. Im just not a fan of roll pins but I will learn to love them Anyone have any idea how much fitting will be involved to install a CGW SRS-2 kit with the Reach reduction kit type 2, also putting int he race hammer with adjustable sear I have heard of people changing their trigger return spring with everything in a dry cleaner bag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abb1 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) 1911’s are a lot easier to work on but CZ’s aren’t that difficult once you go at it a couple of times. A punch set should always be used and if you worked on 1911’s I am assuming you have one. A good resource is to check out the YouTube videos out there. There are a little t of them and are great guides. Edited March 10, 2018 by abb1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 If you are going to tear into the sear cage I really like using a spare sear pin for a slave pin, if the diameter of the slave pin isn't very close to the sear pin then it can make getting things back together a lot more of a chore. To me they are fun to work on after you have fiddled with them a bit, there is just a learning curve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fantom919 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Maybe not a tool but that little slave pin for the trigger return spring from CGW has saved me much frustration.. Obviously their trigger pin as well. I have the czcustom sight pusher and it's worth the money in my opinion. Small and aligned perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 1911’s are a lot easier to work on but CZ’s aren’t that difficult once you go at it a couple of times. A punch set should always be used and if you worked on 1911’s I am assuming you have one. A good resource is to check out the YouTube videos out there. There are a little t of them and are great guides. I’ve been watching a lot of them. Main thing I’m worried about is putting the seat cage back together and loosing a spring somewhere Pesky roll pins also get my blood boiling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 If you are going to tear into the sear cage I really like using a spare sear pin for a slave pin, if the diameter of the slave pin isn't very close to the sear pin then it can make getting things back together a lot more of a chore. To me they are fun to work on after you have fiddled with them a bit, there is just a learning curve. I should have ordered an extra seat cage pinGotta wait till I place another though. CGW charges 8 bucks no matter what u order Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Maybe not a tool but that little slave pin for the trigger return spring from CGW has saved me much frustration.. Obviously their trigger pin as well. I have the czcustom sight pusher and it's worth the money in my opinion. Small and aligned perfectly. Thanks for the tip. Luckily I read that on one of threads on here and purchased the trigger pin as I heard trigger return Springs are pretty much maintenance items Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frgood Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I like having a small screwdriver with a notch in the tip. It makes getting the sear spring moved, or set, a lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 24 minutes ago, frgood said: I like having a small screwdriver with a notch in the tip. It makes getting the sear spring moved, or set, a lot easier. One of those perio-probes or picks your dentist tortures you with work well here also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 34 minutes ago, littlewing6283 said: Thanks for the tip. Luckily I read that on one of threads on here and purchased the trigger pin as I heard trigger return Springs are pretty much maintenance items Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk A cut nail or a trimmed WD-40 straw will work in a pinch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 11 hours ago, ChuckS said: One of those perio-probes or picks your dentist tortures you with work well here also. I guess is shows my age, I use an ice pick with a wooden handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 12 hours ago, ChuckS said: One of those perio-probes or picks your dentist tortures you with work well here also. 1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said: I guess is shows my age, I use an ice pick with a wooden handle. Sounds good , I think I am squared away for the most part. Pick it up tomorrow or Tuesday. Heres to not making the "I effed up my gun" thread Still open to any other tips if anyone has them. Everyone has had really good tips so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) a spare pin or two to turn into slave pins. a staking tool/punch roll pin starter punch generic gunsmith pistol block as you're in CA i have to assume you got a firing pin block gun instead of a Shadow. is it also the decocker model as well? invert the gun with the slide rails to the bench when you pull the trigger return spring. i often put a rag or a paper towel over the grip area when i do this and have never lost a trs. you can do almost anything to the guns with a small jeweler flat head screw driver. a phillips screw driver, a normal flat head driver. a small and medium punch. a roll pin punch. a block. a brass hammer. a vise with soft jaws. a flat file smooth and rough. allen key for sight set screw. slave pins for trs and sear. staking punch. for spares to keep you through a year's worth of competition refreshing/possible loss or breakage on the gun i'd have around these parts. order them once and all together to save time and shipping of so many small parts 2 trigger return springs. the new style from the shadow 2. 2 extra power extractor springs 1 extractor 1 slide stop 1 firing pin 2 reduced power firing pin springs 2 main springs 2 recoil springs 1 mag spring, +10% for whatever mag you're using for each mag 2 sear springs 2 fpb lifter springs 2 safety detent springs. 1 trigger bar lifter spring Edited March 11, 2018 by rowdyb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 When I removed the TRS I used the inverted frame method and it was a good thing I had my hand over the magwell as when I removed the punch, I felt the TRS hit my palm when I removed the punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 1 hour ago, rowdyb said: a spare pin or two to turn into slave pins. a staking tool/punch roll pin starter punch generic gunsmith pistol block as you're in CA i have to assume you got a firing pin block gun instead of a Shadow. is it also the decocker model as well? invert the gun with the slide rails to the bench when you pull the trigger return spring. i often put a rag or a paper towel over the grip area when i do this and have never lost a trs. you can do almost anything to the guns with a small jeweler flat head screw driver. a phillips screw driver, a normal flat head driver. a small and medium punch. a roll pin punch. a block. a brass hammer. a vise with soft jaws. a flat file smooth and rough. allen key for sight set screw. slave pins for trs and sear. staking punch. for spares to keep you through a year's worth of competition refreshing/possible loss or breakage on the gun i'd have around these parts. order them once and all together to save time and shipping of so many small parts 2 trigger return springs. the new style from the shadow 2. 2 extra power extractor springs 1 extractor 1 slide stop 1 firing pin 2 reduced power firing pin springs 2 main springs 2 recoil springs 1 mag spring, +10% for whatever mag you're using for each mag 2 sear springs 2 fpb lifter springs 2 safety detent springs. 1 trigger bar lifter spring Wow thanks for that info Rowdyb. Very detailed and it is much appreciated. I should have most of the tools I need in current stock, I dont own a staking punch though. Good tips on spare parts. I didnt order too many spare parts other than 3 trigger return springs and a slide stop so these are good to know in addition to probably aquring a second one as a backup if I like the platform. and yes you assumed correctly,im in CA for I cant get the shadow unless I want to give up my first born on the used market. I dont have the decocker model, its the regular sp01 with manual safety. I techincally dont have it yet as I have 2 more days on the waiting period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlewing6283 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Just wanted to check back in and thanks. Completed my project without too much cussingThe firing pin holder roll pin took a lot more force than I thought to get it back inBasically completed the Cajun pro package with Dawson sights Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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