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point of aim vs point of impact


jimbullet

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10 hours ago, xdf3 said:

I'll have to check that too since I tried to zero my gun at 25 yards but I'm not good enough to make such a tiny group yet

 

Shoot a bunch of rounds at the target to zero, instead of just a few. If you are good about eliminating the bad shots that you know for sure were caused by shooter error, you can still establish a good zero even if the group is large. Using more rounds just helps establish the center of the group more accurately. 

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I have a new question somewhat related to this topic: i am a new CO shooter. I have my dot zeroed at 7 yds, the bullets hit 0.5 inch higher at 10 yd and 1.5 inch high at 20 yd. Windage is almost perfect at 20 yd.

 

The reason why i am sighting it a bit high is to compensate for my usual (and very consistent) pulling low of the shots during competition. If I am relaxed I can do a very nice 2 inch group dead center at 20 yds in slow fire, but during the heat of competition I pull low, and in a very consistent way.

 

What is your opinion on my sighting the dot high? Would it be counterproductive on the long run? 

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15 minutes ago, Tango said:

I have a new question somewhat related to this topic: i am a new CO shooter. I have my dot zeroed at 7 yds, the bullets hit 0.5 inch higher at 10 yd and 1.5 inch high at 20 yd. Windage is almost perfect at 20 yd.

 

The reason why i am sighting it a bit high is to compensate for my usual (and very consistent) pulling low of the shots during competition. If I am relaxed I can do a very nice 2 inch group dead center at 20 yds in slow fire, but during the heat of competition I pull low, and in a very consistent way.

 

What is your opinion on my sighting the dot high? Would it be counterproductive on the long run? 

This is a perfect example of why zeroing offhand is the way to go. Bags and rests are great for verifying the load will group etc. But always make final adjustment off hand.

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5 minutes ago, Sarge said:

This is a perfect example of why zeroing offhand is the way to go. Bags and rests are great for verifying the load will group etc. But always make final adjustment off hand.

yes, but this is already off hand zeroing, so i am aligning the dot so to shoot about 7-10 moa high. The bullets will hit 1.7 inch high at 20yd (and about 3inch high at 30 yd)

 

I realized that i pull the shots down about this much in rapid fire, but in a very consistent way.

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7 minutes ago, Tango said:

yes, but this is already off hand zeroing, so i am aligning the dot so to shoot about 7-10 moa high. The bullets will hit 1.7 inch high at 20yd (and about 3inch high at 30 yd)

 

I realized that i pull the shots down about this much in rapid fire, but in a very consistent way.

I guess what I meant to say is you are doing it right.

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3 minutes ago, Sarge said:

I guess what I meant to say is you are doing it right.

great then! :))

 

However, i do realize that this could be kind of cheating myself on the long run. I wish my trigger pull was identical in rapid fire vs. slow fire, but I pull shots about 10 moa during rapid fire, and so I am now compensating for that with the optic.

 

I am also quite surprised that purists here would be OK with this.

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15 hours ago, Tango said:

great then! :))

 

However, i do realize that this could be kind of cheating myself on the long run. I wish my trigger pull was identical in rapid fire vs. slow fire, but I pull shots about 10 moa during rapid fire, and so I am now compensating for that with the optic.

 

I am also quite surprised that purists here would be OK with this.

I mean, something is not right if they are way different on paper vs sandbagged group. And sure, you need to try to cure that. But when I first started I was told by a GM that he found his POI was a little different when shooting freestyle vs rest. I think his exact comment was,”you don’t shoot a stage from a rest”. Mine is not a lot different but tends to be a little low at speed.

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19 hours ago, Tango said:

great then! :))

 

However, i do realize that this could be kind of cheating myself on the long run. I wish my trigger pull was identical in rapid fire vs. slow fire, but I pull shots about 10 moa during rapid fire, and so I am now compensating for that with the optic.

 

I am also quite surprised that purists here would be OK with this.

 

I wouldn't be OK with that, but what you're doing is a way to work around it. 

 

It does seem that the better solution would be to work on your rapid fire trigger control so you aren't pulling low in a match vs freehand practice. (I do understand you're not talking about sandbagged/rested shooting.) 

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