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New Reach Reduction kit for Shadows

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Arrived and installed, I haven't shot it yet.  Some notes from my experience.  First thanks to all those that have posted tips, tricks and their videos/pictures etc.  They were very helpful in disassembly, reassembly, and polishing.

 

I used this as a chance to go in and polish various parts on a fairly new Shadow 2 with about 1000 rounds through it, so it took quite awhile overall, but I suspect if you just did the install of the RRK it's very quick depending on if and how much fitting of the disconnector you have to do.

 

I debated about adding the S2 kit with bushing and RRK but it didn't seem like there was much gain and I'd end up with some redundant parts, so I just did the RRK kit, 10x bushing, floating trigger pin, extended firing pin/spring, and 13 lb hammer spring .  I'm sure adding the S2 kit would given slightly better benefits but mostly I just wanted to shorten the trigger reach and I figured I could remove most of the pre-travel and reset from the SA.   Between the reach reduction and all the polishing I'm very pleased with the outcome.

 

So in my case I didn't need to do any fitting of the disconnector, which for a while made me think I was doing something wrong, but I bet the kit includes the new 1488 disconnector that says it's now drop in fit for many S2's.  It appears to pass all the checks listed in the instructions without issue.   Part of me was very happy it dropped in and part of me kind of hoped I would have to do fitting to remove as much of the pre-travel as possible from the SA.   The reach is much better, as someone who has medium hands with stubby fingers I almost had to shift my grip to run the DA, now it's pretty easy in DA without a grip change.  5mm doesn't sound like much but it's a lot in application.  In SA I'd say about half of the pre-travel was removed, I'd say it's 3/32" or so now, however SA reset play is very little, maybe 1/32", so even if I had to fit the disconnector I doubt it would gain me much more until reset was compromised in SA.   DA seems shorter, not sure if it feels lighter, perhaps just quicker.    I did notice that I need a bit more "room" on the over-travel screw in order to release the sear in DA vs SA, in that if I adjusted the over-travel screw to just release the sear in SA, it would not do so in DA.  However it only took a small adjustment maybe 1/4 turn to get it to release the sear in SA and DA reliably.  I probably could adjust even more out but I don't mind leaving a little extra to ensure reliable operation. 

 

The only thing I found a bit confusing was the 3 pins included in the S2 kit, in my case my factory hammer pin was still very tight so I re-used it.  The included instructions for the RRK and disconnector didn't talk about multiple pins, but the website for the new Shadow RRK kit does mention one is for their own hammer, and one is for the factory hammer, and by following the part #'s listed in that description to pages for those parts, I was able to figure out which pin was which.   The bronze colored pin with a shoulder is for the factory hammer for a tight fit, and is supposed to be of a harder material so I may swap that out down the road and replace the hammer strut pin as well.  I'm not quite sure why CZ stakes these pins so hard it seems they are both captured by the frame, but perhaps they just want a solid fit with no frame/pin interference.  Mine were really in there, and I definitely was glad I had a good starter punch.

 

So overall success, and very pleased with the results, pretty amazing really for $200 including the 10x bushing.

 

I did a couple cell phone pics before starting and after and tried to align them, certainly not perfect, but the overlay is pretty good in the trigger guard area so it should give people an idea of the difference.   It doesn't look like much but it feels like a lot.

IMG_0173.jpg

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Arrived and installed, I haven't shot it yet.  Some notes from my experience.  First thanks to all those that have posted tips, tricks and their videos/pictures etc.  They were very helpful in disassembly, reassembly, and polishing.
 
I used this as a chance to go in and polish various parts on a fairly new Shadow 2 with about 1000 rounds through it, so it took quite awhile overall, but I suspect if you just did the install of the RRK it's very quick depending on if and how much fitting of the disconnector you have to do.
 
I debated about adding the S2 kit with bushing and RRK but it didn't seem like there was much gain and I'd end up with some redundant parts, so I just did the RRK kit, 10x bushing, floating trigger pin, extended firing pin/spring, and 13 lb hammer spring .  I'm sure adding the S2 kit would given slightly better benefits but mostly I just wanted to shorten the trigger reach and I figured I could remove most of the pre-travel and reset from the SA.   Between the reach reduction and all the polishing I'm very pleased with the outcome.
 
So in my case I didn't need to do any fitting of the disconnector, which for a while made me think I was doing something wrong, but I bet the kit includes the new 1488 disconnector that says it's now drop in fit for many S2's.  It appears to pass all the checks listed in the instructions without issue.   Part of me was very happy it dropped in and part of me kind of hoped I would have to do fitting to remove as much of the pre-travel as possible from the SA.   The reach is much better, as someone who has medium hands with stubby fingers I almost had to shift my grip to run the DA, now it's pretty easy in DA without a grip change.  5mm doesn't sound like much but it's a lot in application.  In SA I'd say about half of the pre-travel was removed, I'd say it's 3/32" or so now, however SA reset play is very little, maybe 1/32", so even if I had to fit the disconnector I doubt it would gain me much more until reset was compromised in SA.   DA seems shorter, not sure if it feels lighter, perhaps just quicker.    I did notice that I need a bit more "room" on the over-travel screw in order to release the sear in DA vs SA, in that if I adjusted the over-travel screw to just release the sear in SA, it would not do so in DA.  However it only took a small adjustment maybe 1/4 turn to get it to release the sear in SA and DA reliably.  I probably could adjust even more out but I don't mind leaving a little extra to ensure reliable operation. 
 
The only thing I found a bit confusing was the 3 pins included in the S2 kit, in my case my factory hammer pin was still very tight so I re-used it.  The included instructions for the RRK and disconnector didn't talk about multiple pins, but the website for the new Shadow RRK kit does mention one is for their own hammer, and one is for the factory hammer, and by following the part #'s listed in that description to pages for those parts, I was able to figure out which pin was which.   The bronze colored pin with a shoulder is for the factory hammer for a tight fit, and is supposed to be of a harder material so I may swap that out down the road and replace the hammer strut pin as well.  I'm not quite sure why CZ stakes these pins so hard it seems they are both captured by the frame, but perhaps they just want a solid fit with no frame/pin interference.  Mine were really in there, and I definitely was glad I had a good starter punch.
 
So overall success, and very pleased with the results, pretty amazing really for $200 including the 10x bushing.
 
I did a couple cell phone pics before starting and after and tried to align them, certainly not perfect, but the overlay is pretty good in the trigger guard area so it should give people an idea of the difference.   It doesn't look like much but it feels like a lot.
IMG_0173.jpg.14901098857c24765689056bba04f3fb.jpg

Not bad at all! The overlay is helpful to see. Thanks for the report


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Nicely done!!  I'm getting into mine right now.

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Got the kit in with the following upgrades:  adjustable sear with Tanfo 4 coil sear spring and SS race hammer.  Now the hammer occasionally does not lock back in SA.  Only change from a normal CGW upgrade is the Tanfo sear spring and might be causing the sear to not engage the hooks.  Well, the spring is coming out!  But........I still have takeup and haven't seen the benefit of the RRK.  Also, had to take out both of the trigger adjustment screws to make it work.

 

Thinking of taking everything out leaving the adjustable trigger with the stock parts and start over.  

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Problem solved!  Took out the Tanfo spring and put in a new CZ sear spring.  The rear of the springs are different and the Tanfo was keeping the sear up off the hooks.  Lesson learned. 

 

Still not getting the results like the others pictured.  Stock trigger is back in and is a little bit better.  Going to live with this setup.  Looking back, I wouldn't do it again.

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What were your expectations? I’m on the same boat with you since I was hoping I’d get a better reach reduction compared to my T1 disco and modified recurve (I straightened it out) trigger which I also drilled and tapped for a pre and over travel screw. I only ordered the RRK disco since I already have their old style 85C trigger. Reset is a little bit better, barely noticeable but it’s there. I ended up modifying the old style 85 C trigger by heating it up and straightening it out a little bit. I don’t like curve profile of the 85C trigger.

 

Here’s my final setup now. Straightened 85C trigger and RRK disco. I have to fit the disco to enable Sa reset. I’m only using the pretravel screw.

 

AF4_B3518-_FA47-4_EA0-_B099-6_FC4_DB9_BC

 

DA trigger pull after installation of the fitted RRk disco.

FF57_FC79-_C0_B0-4_E20-8668-_B0967_CB275

 

 

SA trigger pull.

2_B5_D7989-_CD60-4651-9_B67-98_A6_E2_EEB

Edited by George16

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What were your expectations? I’m on the same boat with you since I was hoping I’d get a better reach reduction compared to my T1 disco and modified recurve (I straightened it out) trigger which I also drilled and tapped for a pre and over travel screw. I only ordered the RRK disco since I already have their old style 85C trigger. Reset is a little bit better, barely noticeable but it’s there. I ended up modifying the old style 85 C trigger by heating it up and straightening it out a little bit. I don’t like curve profile of the 85C trigger.
 
Here’s my final setup now. Straightened 85C trigger and RRK disco. I have to fit the disco to enable Sa reset. I’m only using the pretravel screw.
 
AF4_B3518-_FA47-4_EA0-_B099-6_FC4_DB9_BC41_C.jpg
 
DA trigger pull after installation of the fitted RRk disco.
FF57_FC79-_C0_B0-4_E20-8668-_B0967_CB2750_C.jpg
 
 
SA trigger pull.
2_B5_D7989-_CD60-4651-9_B67-98_A6_E2_EEB34_C.jpg
That's impressive

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I was looking for at least 3-4mm difference but I'll take 2mm.  Time to play!

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I am just going to get the new disco.  Other CZ forum has pics and data using just the disco with great results.  I like the stock S2 trigger, and don't think it is worth another $50 for the 85 trigger.

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17 minutes ago, NCShadow2 said:

I am just going to get the new disco.  Other CZ forum has pics and data using just the disco with great results.  I like the stock S2 trigger, and don't think it is worth another $50 for the 85 trigger.

 

 You can get just the RRK disco and use your stock shadow 2 trigger. You’ll do  some minor fitting but you’ll be happy with the results afterward. Trim the nose of the disco if it doesn’t drop/reset on DA with your stock shadow 2 trigger.  I was able to do it but I didn’t like the curvature of the stock shadow 2 trigger so I straightened out the old 85C trigger and used that instead.

 

stock shadow 2 trigger compared to the straightened old 85C

7_DA78_CA8-_F1_AD-4897-92_D3-434_B17_C7_

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By the way, I got about 5-6mm reach reduction with the straightened out old 85C trigger compared to about 3-4 on the stock shadow 2 trigger.

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I installed the RRK with extended firing pin, reduced power spring, CGW hammer, slicked every thing up and installed 8.5 pound hammer spring and it is100% reliable with federal primers. 

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Is Cajun Gun Works, the only player in the market when it comes to drop in kits for shortening length of pull in CZ S2's? If not, what other options are there for people who struggle with even getting their fingers around the DA trigger? If CGW is the only option, just seems like a missed opportunity as its an easy way for a gun company to expand its market by making them more usable by more people, if they shorted that pre-travel....which everyone seems to be doing anyways. I'm sure they could figure out a way to still shorten it while offering a LOP kit to sell.

-0.02

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I think CZ custom also does a reach reduction kit but I believe they offer about the same amount of reach reduction.   I'd imagine mechanically if you shorten the DA length of pull too much there are other issues that crop up, especially in a DA/SA design.   I'd imagine a DA only design might be easier to reduce the LOP.  I suppose it's the handles need to store a magazine but I never seem to have problems reaching the trigger on revolvers.  CZ's DA does seem longer than most, I've shot the P226 and FNX tactical and I have an easier time getting to either of those  than the S2.   The S2 also has a lot of "meat" in the grip it wouldn't need and could help reduce the reach to the trigger, but most people seem to prefer the large grip. 

 

Having medium size hands but stubby fingers honestly I just avoid DA guns as a rule, in fact I avoided the S2 for a long time until I ran across the RRK.  I can run the Shadow 2 with the RRK and it's much better than without it, but it's still not the level of trigger control I'd like.  FNX Tactical is the same, I can run it, but not as well as I'd like so I've never bought one. The reality is people like us are the minority and most gun makers won't design guns that fit us, versus the average.   As a result I typically just stay with SA and Striker fired guns. 

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31 minutes ago, unknownusr said:

Is Cajun Gun Works, the only player in the market when it comes to drop in kits for shortening length of pull in CZ S2's? If not, what other options are there for people who struggle with even getting their fingers around the DA trigger? If CGW is the only option, just seems like a missed opportunity as its an easy way for a gun company to expand its market by making them more usable by more people, if they shorted that pre-travel....which everyone seems to be doing anyways. I'm sure they could figure out a way to still shorten it while offering a LOP kit to sell.

-0.02

CZ Custom (vendor forum) offers a reach reduction kit. 

ETA and the trigger with the kit doesn’t have screws to get loose. 

Edited by HI5-O

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27 minutes ago, unknownusr said:

Appreciate the feedback. And thanks also for the tip on the screws. Is that still an issue with loctite?

Not anymore. I grind down the pretravel screw short enough for the trigger return spring to sit on it and keep it in place. The set screw is an M3 x 4 that I grind down to M3 x 3.

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I don't really need the reach reduction, but I just ordered the T5 disco. 

 

Has anyone here tried just the short reset disco without the rrk?

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1 minute ago, vnboileau said:

I don't really need the reach reduction, but I just ordered the T5 disco. 

 

Has anyone here tried just the short reset disco without the rrk?

 

Yup. No significant difference with my T1 disco. In fact, it moves the DA/SA breaks a little bit to the rear. I took T5 disco out and reinstalled the T1 disco. I like the DA/SA break location and feel of the T1 disco better.

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5 hours ago, George16 said:

 

Yup. No significant difference with my T1 disco. In fact, it moves the DA/SA breaks a little bit to the rear. I took T5 disco out and reinstalled the T1 disco. I like the DA/SA break location and feel of the T1 disco better.

 

Any difference in reset length?

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48 minutes ago, vnboileau said:

 

Any difference in reset length?

There’s no significant difference that warrants spending $38 if you already have the T1 or T3 disco. Knowing what I know now, I should have just save my $38.

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