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taymag

G17.. shot production without changing for a while... Trigger question

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I dont remember if it was here or not, but I've shot production for quite a while now without changing a thing on my G17 (like everyone said)...

 

At this point, whats the go to changes on my trigger to start testing out on practice days?

 

Before anyone says "its different for everyone", I know, but if you shoot a "milspec" AR trigger for 3 years then test out a SSA-E, AR gold, etc you WILL notice a difference, I am just asking what "most" people tend to change so I can run the tests myself.

 

Thanks

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Reduced power safety plunger spring and 4.5# striker spring and some kind of 3.5# connector (or factory minus connector) is a pretty good place to start.

 

Polish the internal contact points if you feel like it.

 

It won't break the bank and it won't negatively affect reliability.

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Everything wtturn said and a Zev 6lb trigger spring will help reduce trigger pull. 

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Zen spring kit comes with extra heavy trigger spring, reduced power firing pin spring, and reduced power firing pin safety spring... If I dont use the firing pin spring (I'd rather not deal with light primer strikes) will it still lower my pull a good bit?

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It will reduce it but not by much, the striker spring is what really drops the weight. The zev spring kit comes with a 4lb striker spring, I had a light strike every third round with cci primers. I moved up to a 4.5lb spring and winchester primers. 8-9 thousand rounds last year and no light strikes. My trigger pull is 2lb 14 oz with the zev kit, ghost evo elite connector, and 4.5lb striker spring. I put the 4lb in for the heck of it while cleaning my gun and it was at 2lb 3 oz. So I would estimate for every .5 spring weight change you will see around 10 oz difference

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Polish the internals (25cent trigger job internet reference)

3.5 connector (Ghost, TTI etc)

4.5 lbs wolff striker spring so you don't get light strikes.

Guide rod with 14lbs recoil spring

Dryfire, live fire, REPEAT OFTEN LOL

 

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4.5# striker spring is very reliable if your primers are seated the way they're supposed to be (bottomed out in the primer hole)

 

As was mentioned, the striker spring is the big bang for the buck in pull weight reduction.

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What everyone else said.  You can have a very decent trigger for about $20 in parts.  I've tried some of the expensive trigger kits and don't think they're worth it.  All you need are some springs and a connector of your choice.  I like the Zev connector personally; TTI one is ok too, but feels pretty similar and is more expensive.  Firing pin safety spring and trigger spring don't seem to do much, striker spring is what makes the big difference as said above.  I'd go with the Wolff 4.5# striker spring; I had another unknown brand 4.5# striker spring that started giving light strikes after a few thousand rounds.  Even the 5.0# Wolff striker spring feels pretty good if you really don't want to worry about light strikes.

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https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156085 

 

Nice inexpensive kit that is easy to install. The over travel adjustment is a nice feature.

 

Also have really enjoyed a flat face trigger. Went with a ranger proof from Aim the other year. Plenty of other options out there. The nice thing about the replacement trigger is the reduction of pre travel.Coupled with the over travel stop and springs in the kit above my total trigger travel is about 1/4" with a 3-3 1/2 lb break. Have tried some ghost parts but ended up back with the lone wolf setup, as it felt better.

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10 hours ago, Southpaw said:

What everyone else said.  You can have a very decent trigger for about $20 in parts.  I've tried some of the expensive trigger kits and don't think they're worth it.  All you need are some springs and a connector of your choice.  I like the Zev connector personally; TTI one is ok too, but feels pretty similar and is more expensive.  Firing pin safety spring and trigger spring don't seem to do much, striker spring is what makes the big difference as said above.  I'd go with the Wolff 4.5# striker spring; I had another unknown brand 4.5# striker spring that started giving light strikes after a few thousand rounds.  Even the 5.0# Wolff striker spring feels pretty good if you really don't want to worry about light strikes.

Seems fairly common, my question is why dont people just spend the extra $40 and get a lightweight firing pin so they can use the 4# spring?

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2 hours ago, taymag said:

Seems fairly common, my question is why dont people just spend the extra $40 and get a lightweight firing pin so they can use the 4# spring?

 

I once tried a lightweight firing pin and still got light strikes with a 4.0# spring. Even if it did work though to me not worth the cost. 4.5# spring gives a pretty light pull; I don't feel like spending money on more parts for a slightly lighter pull.

 

2 hours ago, Chip3 said:

Also have really enjoyed a flat face trigger. Went with a ranger proof from Aim the other year. Plenty of other options out there. The nice thing about the replacement trigger is the reduction of pre travel.Coupled with the over travel stop and springs in the kit above my total trigger travel is about 1/4" with a 3-3 1/2 lb break. Have tried some ghost parts but ended up back with the lone wolf setup, as it felt better.

 

You need to be careful with aftermarket triggers that reduce pre travel to ensure it doesn't defeat some of the safeties. If you try reducing pre travel without using a modified trigger bar it's easy to deactivate the firing pin block safety and drop safety. 

 

I don't know anything about that particular one you mentioned, but have seen it happen with other aftermarket triggers.

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10 minutes ago, Southpaw said:

You need to be careful with aftermarket triggers that reduce pre travel to ensure it doesn't defeat some of the safeties. If you try reducing pre travel without using a modified trigger bar it's easy to deactivate the firing pin block safety and drop safety. 

 

The trigger in question did not defeat the mentioned safeties on my gun and you should absolutely do your research and check the safeties after installation if you choose to go to an aftermarket trigger. 

 

I brought up changing the trigger because in my experience the travel reduction made for a noticeable improvement after doing some basic springs and a polish. Titanium firing pin safeties and light weight strikers seem to be in the range of diminishing returns.

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7 hours ago, taymag said:

Seems fairly common, my question is why dont people just spend the extra $40 and get a lightweight firing pin so they can use the 4# spring?

 

Most quality firing pins cost much more than $40 and are  not worth it for another  5 oz. reduction in pull weight. 

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8 minutes ago, JBP55 said:

 

Most quality firing pins cost much more than $40 and are  not worth it for another  5 oz. reduction in pull weight. 

So are you saying use a 4.5 striker spring?

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I’d say get both a 4 & 4.5# and if you really like the feel of the 4 better, then buy a lightened striker. 

Edited by MrSmith

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33 minutes ago, MrSmith said:

I’d say get both a 4 & 4.5# and if you really like the feel of the 4 better, then buy a lightened striker. 

I assume the spring that comes with the ZEV Technologies Competition Spring Kit is 4#?

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Not sure what comes with that kit. 

I can tell you what Combo that I use. TTI grandmaster 3.25 connector, stock trigger spring  reduced plunger spring, 4# Wolff striker spring with lightened striker. I use Federal primers and change the striker springs out about every 3K rounds. Have not had any problems. 

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So under the new rules in production is a drop in trigger go to go.

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24 minutes ago, Debob said:

So under the new rules in production is a drop in trigger go to go.

 

Yes. When the rule change goes into effect for production.

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