emdcksn Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Reloading 5.56 for the first time. Just bought a 2k once fired 5.56 brass and was wondering what would be the best place to start. They are clean of course. Should I size/trim or pop primers and swage/ream pockets first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertTortoise Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) I think your technique should be based on the tools you have available. The most efficient way I came up with (based on the tools I have) is to clean, then deprime / resize on the single stage, then ream primer pockets with the tool chucked in a hand drill, sort for trim length, trim with a 3-way cutter (trim, chamfer, debur) on a drill powered RCBS trimmer. Then I prime, charge, seat bullets, and taper crimp on the 550. Its a ton of work I'm handling each piece of brass 4-5 times. Other guys can do all that on a single machine or with one prep toolhead, a swager, and a finishing toolhead Edited February 1, 2018 by DesertTortoise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Agree with tortoise. What are you using to swage?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) I have a Dillon super swage and a Lyman case prep express. Noticed the Lyman reamer leaves a cleaner pocket than the Dillon. Definitely on LC brass with the 4 stake marks. Brass is trimmed and resized with a Dillon RT1500 on a Chucker with all of the in-line fabrication toys the assembled on a 550b for now. Thinking about a xl650 upgrade. Edited February 2, 2018 by emdcksn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) Seems like the base of the case would be smoother/more uniform for resize/trim if primers were done second. Edited February 2, 2018 by emdcksn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 If you’re using the auto ejector modification for the super swage, it’s a little tight and doesn’t fling them off as well, If you resize first. I think I would deprime and swage first with your setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 That’s what I decided to continue doing. Once I receive my auto eject from In-line Fabrication for the Chucker, it will all run much faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armydad Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 I have a Dillon super swage and a Lyman case prep express. Noticed the Lyman reamer leaves a cleaner pocket than the Dillon. Definitely on LC brass with the 4 stake marks. Brass is trimmed and resized with a Dillon RT1500 on a Chucker with all of the in-line fabrication toys the assembled on a 550b for now. Thinking about a xl650 upgrade.If you plan to load a fair amount of rifle, I’d seriously consider upgrading to the 1050 for the swagger alone. A prep head and a loading head. It’s expensive but worth it to me. I started with the 550, upgraded to 650 and then to the 1050. Wouldn’t process volumes of rifle brass any other way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chinny33 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 honestly, I dont trim at all! I just setup my dillon 1050 just to run through without ever trimming brass. What I think helps is that I have a RCBS X small base die for 556 and I keep checking the brass to see if trimming is ever needed in my case gages and only 1 out of every 500 or more would need ever the slightest trim which still isnt enough for me to have to run the ammo through the press twice. thats twice the time and twice the work. 2 kids, a wife & a career...I dont have that time.... I do wash all the brass through my frankford wet tumbler with SS pins to have them super shiny prep: cookie sheet and spray away with Dillon case lube Station 1: Small Base X Die Station 2: swager Prime Powder Die: I use the dillon powder dropper ONLY for ball ammo. Luckily my favorite powders are CFE223 & TAC. Mr. Bullet Feeder Redding Competition Seating Die Redding Competition Crimp Die done.... throw all loaded ammo into my corn cob Dillon tumbler for 25mins then I check ALL ammo in batches of 2-5 to make sure the primer is in correctly and no major dents, cracks, flaws in the brass. Then I'll case gage 1 out of every 10 or if I can feel any out of place. done for real this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Loading 5.56 for the first time as well. After decaping and cleaning, I lubed a handful of cases and resized them in my Forster Co-Ax press with Forster full size die. I can tell where the die touched the case as it left some sort marks. Kind of a marring effect and a light ring in the top of the shoulder I guess? Since I have never resized these before, I can't tell if this is normal. Attaching a few pics that show a cleaned and decapped case and two resized cases. Could you please tell me if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 8 minutes ago, LowBoost said: Loading 5.56 for the first time as well. After decaping and cleaning, I lubed a handful of cases and resized them in my Forster Co-Ax press with Forster full size die. I can tell where the die touched the case as it left some sort marks. Kind of a marring effect and a light ring in the top of the shoulder I guess? Since I have never resized these before, I can't tell if this is normal. Attaching a few pics that show a cleaned and decapped case and two resized cases. Could you please tell me if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my die? Not sure. I use DCL and Dillon carbide dies and there aren’t any marks on my brass. Maybe not enough case lube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalicat30 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 To much case lube or crap in the die is my vote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 (edited) I thought so as well, but I just tried a couple more cases with a little more lube, substantially more lube (Attempting to cause the case to dent) and barely any lube. Although there was a smidge of a difference, I can still see the "marks". Oh well, I will try contacting Forster or get some other full size die. Redding, etc. Die is brand new...I will try with barely any lube and see...I am sitting right next to bench. FYI - I am not seeing / feeling any scratches. It is just when I check the case against light, I can see where the die "acted" against the brass. It obviously leaves some trace. I just want to confirm this is normal or if there should be absolutely no trace at all? Edited February 10, 2018 by LowBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Just tried One Shot, Imperial Wax, and RCBS Case Lube. Same results. Crap... may have to buy a new full size die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Like Metalicat said, maybe debris in the die. I would try cleaning it before replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalicat30 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 FWIW ....Those dents dings etc....will shoot right out.. I have had it occur with over lubed cases as i mentioned above...If they case gauge i would not worry to much about it unless it bothers you . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) OK - Cleaned the die (even though it is brand new). Believe it or not... it came out dirty! I used some lube with a few patches until clean. I also re-adjusted the die length, used very little to no Imperial wax, and now it is much better. My OCD still kicks in, so I ordered a Redding full size die just in case. Maybe I was using too much lube even though I thought it was just a tad? I don't worry about the dents in the first couple of cases. I know they will be blown away when shot. Thanks for the help. One last question... should I swage before trimming or before resizing? Edited February 11, 2018 by LowBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L3324temp Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Looked like it might have been too much shoulder bump to me.You size then trim. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 1 hour ago, LowBoost said: OK - Cleaned the die (even though it is brand new). Believe it or not... it came out dirty! I used some lube with a few patches until clean. I also re-adjusted the die length, used very little to no Imperial wax, and now it is much better. My OCD still kicks in, so I ordered a Redding full size die just in case. Maybe I was using too much lube even though I thought it was just a tad? I don't worry about the dents in the first couple of cases. I know they will be blown away when shot. Thanks for the help. One last question... should I swage before trimming or before resizing? What are you using to swage pockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) RCBS Trim Mate Station with crimp remover, pocket uniformer, etc. I also have a Dillon Super Swage which I have not really set up, and I also have a CH4D swage die (I can use this in the Forster Co-Ax) Choose your poison! Edited February 11, 2018 by LowBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 4 minutes ago, LowBoost said: RCBS Trim Mate Station with crimp remover, pocket uniformer, etc. I also have a Dillon Super Swage which I have not really set up, and I also have a CH4D swage die (I can use this in the Forster Co-Ax) Choose your poison! I have the Lyman case prep center and the SS600. I prefer the SS600. Takes about 2min to dial in. I do separate by Head stamp though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowBoost Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) I honestly prefer the Dillon Super Swager. I just need to find time to set it up correctly. Now that I got a press (S1050) and I am setting things up, I will find time to set it up. I sort by headstamps for pistol (9mm / .45) for 5.56 and 7.62 I will strictly use Lake City brass. Tons of decapped & cleaned 223 & 308 brass I have to sell as I will not use them. Edited February 11, 2018 by LowBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emdcksn Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 18 minutes ago, LowBoost said: I honestly prefer the Dillon Super Swager. I just need to find time to set it up correctly. Now that I got a press (S1050) and I am setting things up, I will find time to set it up. I sort by headstamps for pistol (9mm / .45) for 5.56 and 7.62 I will strictly use Lake City brass. Tons of decapped & cleaned 223 & 308 brass I have to sell as I will not use them. Trying totalk myself into a S1050 instead of a 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalicat30 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 I swage,size and trim on 1 pass thru my 650(for rifle)....then clean and reload on a 2nd pass thru my 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdr Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 12 hours ago, metalicat30 said: I swage,size and trim on 1 pass thru my 650(for rifle)....then clean and reload on a 2nd pass thru my 650. What are you using to swage on your 650? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now