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650 'as it should be' starter list

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Is there still a recommended list for purchasing the 650 as a first time reloader?  I'd like to make sure I am not missing something

 

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I was wondering the same recently. Got my 550 the way it should BE


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Some ideas from Brian Enos who had great ideas on what you would need for your Dillon press.

 

You need:

reloading dies for your choice of caliber

Carbide for pistol calibers lube not needed but it make loading easier.

Standard or Carbide if available for your rifle caliber. Must use lube for all rifle calibers.

powder scale

bullet puller

case tumbler/vibrator to clean your fired brass

cleaning media for the case cleaner

case lube

Primer tray to flip primers

good reloading manuals Hornady, Speer, Lyman, Sierra or bullet maker specific loading manuals.

bullets for reloading

primers

powder

 

This is in the FAQ from Brian Enos old store site. Prices are now somewhat higher

Although not technically a "drawback," the case feeder for the 650 is optional, meaning add another 180 bucks to the base price of the machine. (Don’t even think of buying a 650 without the casefeeder.)

650 Height Dimensions (w/Casefeeder):
With Casefeeder (and no Strong Mount): 38.5"
With Casefeeder and 650 Only Strong Mount: 45"
(650 Only Strong Mount raises machine 6.5")

 

RFP: (Recommended First Purchase)
$566.95 – Base Price
 $63.95 – Dies (sold separately)
$218.95 – Casefeeder
$42.95 – Roller Handle, Aluminum
$44.95 – Strong Mount, (650 only)
$40.95 – Bullet Tray
$978.70 – RFP Total

Additional options available:
$68.95 – Powder Check System
$41.95 – Low Powder Sensor (redundant with Powder Check System)

NCC: (Nice Caliber Conversion)
 $77.95 – Caliber Conversion Kit
 $63.95 – Dies
 $107.95 – Deluxe Quick-Change Kit (Includes Toolhead, Powder Measure, Powder Die, and Toolhead Stand.)
$249.85 – NCC Total

Edited by GR8GIFT

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 RFP: (Recommended First Purchase)
$566.95 – Base Price
 $63.95 – Dies (sold separately)
$218.95 – Casefeeder
$42.95 – Roller Handle, Aluminum
$44.95 – Strong Mount, (650 only)
$40.95 – Bullet Tray
$978.70 – RFP Total
 
 


This is exactly how my 650 is set up. It was already mentioned but the case feeder is sold separately but is really mandatory to use to press as it's designed.

Strong mount is nice but depending on your bench set up may not be necessary. The roller handle and bullet tray aren't mandatory but make reloading more pleasant. The only addition I'd make is good lighting, can be as simple as a desk lamp next to the press or a dedicated led strip.

https://www.amazon.com/UFO-Reloading-Press-light-Dillon/dp/B06Y6M4S5D

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Powder scale + Trickler

bullet puller, collet style ... Hammer type gets old pretty quickly 

 

If you got the money:

 

keep an eye out for a used single stage press for your bullet puller. 

 

Recommend getting two two extra tool heads as you never know what comes up.  

If shooting rifle, get the powered case trimmer

Dillon universal depriming die, spring pops out primers better than the Lee die.  

Case cleaner, start with vibrating type and then get rotating type with stainless pins.  They both have their place. 

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Don't use a list. Lists are made by someone who wants to make as much money as possible on one sale.

Buy the 650 and mount it to your bench. If you sit on a stool while you work then you're good to go. If you stand, then buy a strong mount. Dillon has, I believe, two sizes for the 650. The short one is probably your best bet, but Dillon can provide recommendations according to the height of your work surface.

Buy a set of carbide dies for your caliber with a separate crimp die. I prefer Redding over Dillon, but Dillon is fine.

Buy bullets, powder, primers, and brass, and you are ready to reload.

 

You do not need a low powder sensor. You can see it in the hopper. You do not need a powder check. You can see it in the case as well as see the powder drop operate.

You don't need a bullet puller. If you load up a bunch of ammo with the wrong powder charge then you need to change your loading habits rather than stand at a single-stage and pull bullets all day.

You do not, necessarily, need a case cleaner and all the stuff that goes with it. It is much easier to locate a dealer and buy once-fired brass that is already sorted and cleaned. You can even get really cheap range brass that's been cleaned.

Unless you're big into the multi-caliber thing, don't spend money on quick change kits. Buy only for the caliber you need at the time.

 

Oh, yea. Tricklers. I forgot.

If you are loading precision ammo on a single-stage press then Tricklers might be a good idea, but for progressive presses they are totally unnecessary. The charge bar on the powder measure is your trickler. 

 

Good luck. 

Edited by MikieM

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15 minutes ago, MikieM said:

If you sit on a stool while you work then you're good to go. If you stand, then buy a strong mount.

Don't sit unless you have a medical condition.  Standing helps you with visual inspection of the process as you reload and helps to insure that you are seating primers fully.

Now, to help with the OP's actual question; Dillon has a configurator that is pretty handy https://www.dillonprecision.com/xl650_8_1_23803.html?pkg_cust=1

 

You can also call to have a rep walk you through the purchase process.

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1 hour ago, jhgtyre said:

Don't sit unless you have a medical condition.  Standing helps you with visual inspection of the process as you reload and helps to insure that you are seating primers fully.

 

I hope this isn't too far off topic...

 

I've done a couple of searches on the topic of bench and/or press mounting height, but it's usually in terms of inches.  I'm curious, where do you like your press mounted, standing or sitting, in relation to your body?  Do you like the handle at shoulder height?  Or where do you like the shellplate in relation to your eyes, etc?

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1 hour ago, jhgtyre said:

Don't sit unless you have a medical condition.  Standing helps you with visual inspection of the process as you reload and helps to insure that you are seating primers fully.

This was the best advice I received as a novice loader years ago. Thanks jhgryre for your post. Great reminder

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1 hour ago, 191138sc said:

This was the best advice I received as a novice loader years ago. Thanks jhgryre for your post. Great reminder

 

Except it makes no sense whatsoever. 

If you only need a hundred rounds, say, you're only going to sit in front of your 550 for about 12 minutes. The average NFL game lasts 3 hours and 12 minutes. 

Wouldn't it be healthier to stand and watch the ballgame?

Edited by MikieM

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14 minutes ago, MikieM said:

 

Except it makes no sense whatsoever. 

If you only need a hundred rounds, say, you're only going to sit in front of your 550 for about 12 minutes. OR STAND IN FRONT OF YOUR 650 FOR 4 MINUTES!

 

The average NFL game lasts 3 hours and 12 minutes. Wouldn't be healthier to stand and watch the ballgame? ACTUALLY, DON'T WATCH THE NFL AT ALL UNTIL THEY GET THEIR CRAP TOGETHER, THEN IT BECOMES MOOT!

 

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LOL, I can't believe we're arguing discussing sitting verses standing.  Whatever floats your boat is what you should do.  I'm new to reloading, only been doing it since the early 1960's and I've always sat.  I have a tall stool that allows me to easily see what's going on, and it's comfortable.  But if someone prefers to stand, that's fine.

 

As far as the NFL, if I say what I think, Brian will spank me. :D

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1 hour ago, vnboileau said:

 

I hope this isn't too far off topic...

 

I've done a couple of searches on the topic of bench and/or press mounting height, but it's usually in terms of inches.  I'm curious, where do you like your press mounted, standing or sitting, in relation to your body?  Do you like the handle at shoulder height?  Or where do you like the shellplate in relation to your eyes, etc?

 

Err on the high side.  That is to say, if you mount the press and it's too high, you can raise your chair or build a platform to stand on.  But if you mount it too low, you'll have to saw off your legs.....:lol:

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51 minutes ago, Sarge said:

 

 

Ain't it the truth? :(

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2 things that I added to my 650 that have made life easier are the Missed live primer upgrade and spent primer upgrade.  The primer cup and "ski jump" are terrible..  Spent primers are routed through tubing into a 2 liter soda bottle.  Live primers are caught in a little bottle.  Got them both from Dillonupgrades.com

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For the record, I stand when reloading. Since the late 70's I have always built my work, and reloading benches at precisely belt buckle height. In my case that's 39 inches. When I was younger it was almost 40, but I digress.

Both my 550C and Super 1050 are on Strong Mounts so for me it's easier to walk up to the machines, grab a handle, and start reloading than to mess with a chair, or stool.

 

As for the OP's original post I still don't like lists, especially when they come from a retailer. To me it's better to learn all you can and buy only what you need.

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Not getting into the sit vs. stand debate :huh:

In addition to what has already been suggested, I recommend getting a digital caliper (even the HF ones are better than nothing), chronograph and case gauge.

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20 hours ago, GR8GIFT said:

 

Some ideas from Brian Enos who had great ideas on what you would need for your Dillon press.

 

You need:

reloading dies for your choice of caliber

Carbide for pistol calibers lube not needed but it make loading easier.

Standard or Carbide if available for your rifle caliber. Must use lube for all rifle calibers.

powder scale

bullet puller

case tumbler/vibrator to clean your fired brass

cleaning media for the case cleaner

case lube

Primer tray to flip primers

good reloading manuals Hornady, Speer, Lyman, Sierra or bullet maker specific loading manuals.

bullets for reloading

primers

powder

 

This is in the FAQ from Brian Enos old store site. Prices are now somewhat higher

Although not technically a "drawback," the case feeder for the 650 is optional, meaning add another 180 bucks to the base price of the machine. (Don’t even think of buying a 650 without the casefeeder.)

650 Height Dimensions (w/Casefeeder):
With Casefeeder (and no Strong Mount): 38.5"
With Casefeeder and 650 Only Strong Mount: 45"
(650 Only Strong Mount raises machine 6.5")

 

RFP: (Recommended First Purchase)
$566.95 – Base Price
 $63.95 – Dies (sold separately)
$218.95 – Casefeeder
$42.95 – Roller Handle, Aluminum
$44.95 – Strong Mount, (650 only)
$40.95 – Bullet Tray
$978.70 – RFP Total

Additional options available:
$68.95 – Powder Check System
$41.95 – Low Powder Sensor (redundant with Powder Check System)

NCC: (Nice Caliber Conversion)
 $77.95 – Caliber Conversion Kit
 $63.95 – Dies
 $107.95 – Deluxe Quick-Change Kit (Includes Toolhead, Powder Measure, Powder Die, and Toolhead Stand.)
$249.85 – NCC Total

 

Thanks..I remember the 'as it should be' upgrades, but I didn't actually know what they were.  Believe me I've read the FAQ like 10 times (Even if I am doing a 650 first).

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On 1/30/2018 at 12:38 PM, Balakay said:

2 things that I added to my 650 that have made life easier are the Missed live primer upgrade and spent primer upgrade.  The primer cup and "ski jump" are terrible..  Spent primers are routed through tubing into a 2 liter soda bottle.  Live primers are caught in a little bottle.  Got them both from Dillonupgrades.com

I just moved to the 650 after loading for a year on a Square Deal. these are great for the money. almost a necessity.

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On 1/30/2018 at 11:38 AM, Balakay said:

2 things that I added to my 650 that have made life easier are the Missed live primer upgrade and spent primer upgrade.  The primer cup and "ski jump" are terrible..  Spent primers are routed through tubing into a 2 liter soda bottle.  Live primers are caught in a little bottle.  Got them both from Dillonupgrades.com

I'll have to agree to change out the spent primer catcher.  But pick up one 38 or 357 case and it slides into the grooves perfectly add a foot length of clear hose and a used screw top water bottle that you drilled out lid for tight fit for hose to slide into and for the cost of the hose you saved some money.  And If you leave primers in the slide to build up and overflow,  shame on you.  Be safe and remove.  If you are adjusting make a simple primer stop and use it when necessary.  

 

And I don't agree you don't need a powder check.  If you are running at speed, you are not looking into each case. No way.  It is cheap insurance.  

 

Oh, and you do need something to pull the random bullet.  Seated too deep, is one thing you will do.  What, you have a drawer full of bad rounds? Get a cheap puller. 

No trickler but must have scale.

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Upgrades I use the most of my 650

Plastic Roller Handle

Spent primer catcher

Calipers

Digital Scale (I got the one that BE sells)

Mr Bullet Feeder

The replacement indexing ball and spring

Lots of primer pick up tubes

Primer Flip Tray

Tools (in particular a 1/4" socket wrench with a bit for the shell plate bolt)

A canning funnel for pouring powder

Hundo Case Gauge with flipper tray

Lots of Dillon Boxes

Extra loaded round catchers with covers to close the front hole

Masking tape and sharpie to label ammo boxes

Light to light up press while loading

Movies or music to make the session not horrible

 

Things I use occasionally:

Bullet puller (the hammer kind)

Cement Mixer to clean brass

Shell Sorters

Shaker table to work shell sorters

Label Maker to label things

Chrono

 

Edited by PPGMD

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