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HerdThinner

2011 trigger screw mounting hole cracked

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Have many of you completely field stripped your 2011 to find (forgive me for not knowing the proper term) the eye bolt on the frame for the trigger screw broken off? 

 

 

Edited by HerdThinner

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Are you talking about the little hole that the trigger guard screw goes through? Connecting the grip to the frame?
 

I've heard of that breaking if a steel grip is not fit properly, but that's about it.

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I think he is talking about the actual screw.  (I think it is called a sex-bolt).  Needs a 1/16th inch Allen.

 

And yes, I have stripped it out.  Took a small drillbit and carefully drilled it out.

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That sounds like a warranty problem. You're on the hook for a new frame or a very good welder.

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Only time I've seen that break is when someone tried to beat the grip off without removing the screw.  But it should be an easy fix.  Probably take 5 min with a TiG weld. 

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I've had the trigger guard frame link broke off several times.  Some of it was due to me using only one screw (because they always unscrew and get lost) and punching it through the hole with hammer and punch and then locktiting in place (never falls out but still easy to remove and put back without hex keys and all the struggle). That link is truly the weakest link in the gun.

 

Now I just push the one screw through with pliers, but I still had two others break off, now together with a piece of the frame, leaving a hole in the frame at the (dis)attachement point!

 

It happened recently on my 2 shitty german made "custom" 2011-s. I measured the dimensions and found out that the part of the frame, where the trigger guard touches the frame (there is a 1x .5 or so recess) was CNC-d 3 times thinner than on my other guns, so I guess all the vibration and forces on the grip that transfer to the trigger guard link can easily break it off together with the paper-thin tiny piece of the frame.

It is not easy to weld it back. The"ll try wil laser welding, but it failed on my other gun.

Edited by marcin c

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link2.thumb.jpg.6028c34bf86f5b34997ee034e1ba013c.jpglink1.thumb.jpg.aef028b87a86a90352f483cb15c946f9.jpgas you can see the recess in the frame to accomodate the trigger guard is too deep, hence the frame floor is very thin. I guess when they make the frame they weld the link to the frame, possibly weakening that part of the frame . I suppose it would be much stronger (and much more expensive) if they CNC-d the link together with the frame from one block of metal..

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what about warranty ? looks very bad.

who is the frame manufacturer?

u can fix this in few ways, but  u will need prepare jig for this task if u want weld the broken part or new.

 

 

Edited by yigal

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I sent it back to the guy who made the guns and he claims to be able to get it laser-welded back with some specialised welder.  Same already happened on the second frame (unfortunately I bought 4 identical guns from this provider).
He told me its a US made frame but I suspect it was made in the EU/Germany (the name tag on the frame was removed, but with magnifying glass you can still see the original imprint).

 

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You could TiG weld that in about five minutes, four and a half of which would be spent prepping for the weld.

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4 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

You could TiG weld that in about five minutes, four and a half of which would be spent prepping for the weld.

Would that be better than laser welding?

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I don't know what would be involved in lazer welding those parts, who would have the equipment to do it, or if it would be cost-effective.  But TiG welding is very common, easy to find, and inexpensive (once you have the equipment).  And any experienced TiG welder could fix that in a matter of minutes.  If done correctly, the weld will be stronger than the original part.  It's possible that the tab will break again, due to poor design, but it's not going to break at the weld.  There are tons of TiG welding videos on youtube if you want to get some idea how it works.

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