RaylanGivens Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I'm always trying to get the extreme spread and standard deviation closer on my 9mm Open loads... Currently using 8.8gr of HS6 and wondering if it would help to move from the Dillon 1050 small powder bar to the large powder bar. Are there any range limits that determine when to change from the small powder bar to the large powder bar on a 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer-x Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Smaller bar has proven most consistent for me with the charge volumes we use in 9 major (I've experimented with both). You can try adding a piece of tape to the top of your powder bar spacer to minimize the gaps around your powder bar. I did this to solve leakage of very fine powders like AA7 and True Blue. This increased drop consistency for me a lot. The trick is to add the thickness of tape required to get a precise fit without being too tight as to restrict the movement of the bar when loading. In my case with AA7, tightening up the powder system made the movement of the bar much easier since there wasn't powder granules getting into and fouling the movement anymore. I've got 3 Dillon powder systems. 2 of them benefited from this tape trick, while the other was very tight tolerance from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sprig Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Agree with racer, i found the smaller bar better . I polished things , added the powder weight and that helped a bit . I found extreme spread and SD varied more with random brass. If i loaded the same head stamp , it was a lot less, possibly due to case thickness and the crimp possibly ? unsure exactly why but when i load for a major match, it's all the same head stamped brass and have been gtg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) i don't load 9 major, but I was trying to get my SD and ES down a while back also, I found the Uniquetek powder bar to great investment. Shooting 9mm minor, i was able to consistently get my SD down to 2fps over 20-25 shots through the chronograph, groups got better too. I performed enough experimenting with it that I can change powders and charges with ease and it is accurate. http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1231 Edited January 6, 2018 by Butterpuc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 23 hours ago, Butterpuc said: i don't load 9 major, but I was trying to get my SD and ES down a while back also, I found the Uniquetek powder bar to great investment. Shooting 9mm minor, i was able to consistently get my SD down to 2fps over 20-25 shots through the chronograph, groups got better too. I performed enough experimenting with it that I can change powders and charges with ease and it is accurate. http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1231 Interesting... I've been using a powder measure replacement bolt from eBay... It has a large head that I can mark to see if it moves... Unfortunately, it does move a bit during reloading... Doesn't seem like much, but it might be part of my problem with FPS variations... My standard deviation is 10 over 15 rounds. Does the UniqueTek micrometer change settings during reloading? I assume it doesn't move and stays in the same place due to the finer (maybe tighter) threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teros135 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 30 minutes ago, RaylanGivens said: Interesting... I've been using a powder measure replacement bolt from eBay... It has a large head that I can mark to see if it moves... Unfortunately, it does move a bit during reloading... Doesn't seem like much, but it might be part of my problem with FPS variations... My standard deviation is 10 over 15 rounds. Does the UniqueTek micrometer change settings during reloading? I assume it doesn't move and stays in the same place due to the finer (maybe tighter) threads. Nope. At least, mine doesn't. Stays right at the setting I put it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer-x Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I've got one of UniqueTek bars also. The micrometer setting has never budged while loading and the settings are repeatable. The downside and why I don't use mine anymore, is that the plastic bar has been galled by powder slipping around it in operation. This happened when I was loading the very fine True Blue powder and hadn't figured out the tape trick I posted above. Mine still works OK with coarse powders, but fine powders like AA7 and True Blue get wedged into the galled spots even with the tape trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 7 hours ago, racer-x said: I've got one of UniqueTek bars also. The micrometer setting has never budged while loading and the settings are repeatable. The downside and why I don't use mine anymore, is that the plastic bar has been galled by powder slipping around it in operation. This happened when I was loading the very fine True Blue powder and hadn't figured out the tape trick I posted above. Mine still works OK with coarse powders, but fine powders like AA7 and True Blue get wedged into the galled spots even with the tape trick. Plastic? Did you get the Arrendondo powder bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer-x Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 3 hours ago, RaylanGivens said: Plastic? Did you get the Arrendondo powder bar? Yes sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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