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Ruger PC Carbine


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35 minutes ago, ekraus said:

Rotated down? Are you saying press down on the top and in? You cant loosen the screw and rotate the lever down without removing the detent on the back of the lever. I agree with it being metal. The plastic flexes when pressed.

 

Keep the detent in place and tighten the screw. once everything is tight, rotate the lever counter clockwise untill the lever is stopped by the detent hitting the top of the hole.

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The lever will flex some.......but not to the point of the mag not dropping, and when I say flex, it's very minimal. You need to make sure that the head of that screw on the back side of the lever goes in the C'bore of the stainless steel piece, which should already be tightened in place. Then you use the 1/2" long screw to lock it in place. And you still have binding? hmmmmm

 

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On 3/29/2018 at 3:35 PM, DesertTortoise said:

So I installed the volquartsen 10/22 parts. Was actually much easier than assembling a 10/22 trigger since the bolt and mag release are not part of the equation.

Trigger went from 4.5 lbs to 2.5 lbs. Still has a mushy feel, but better than stock. Over travel is gone. Function check was good, but it will be a little bit before I can shoot it due to new babies home now :)

 

Tested the volquartsen trigger tonight -  is working great

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19 hours ago, DesertTortoise said:

 

Keep the detent in place and tighten the screw. once everything is tight, rotate the lever counter clockwise untill the lever is stopped by the detent hitting the top of the hole.

I re installed the lever being careful to rotate the lever as far down as it would go before tightening the screw. Attached is a picture of the lever being pressed by my trigger finger.5ad1e9ad6fd23_20180414_073059b.thumb.jpg.bd67417cea7b77aa90fc09b996547cc4.jpg

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So, I have duplicated your issue.....when you installed the Stainless steel part, you have it binding inside the hole.......you need to make sure that part and the factory part are not binding. If you get that right.....you will not have the issue you are seeing. To be fair....with as much as that is flexing, you would not be able to use anything metal and have it work

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On 4/13/2018 at 7:54 AM, ekraus said:

I have some observations on the Taccom Ruger PC Carbine parts. I got the Release Button, Funnel and Charge Handle last night. Took less then 10 minutes to put all 3 on the gun. The Funnel works as intended it angles the mag in quite easily. The Charge handle is much bigger than the stock one. Now for the Mag Button and the trigger finger release lever. Well I couldn't get the trigger finger release lever

to work at all. The lever is about 3" long and when you press it all of the force is on the rear of the release button causing it to bind. I didn't even try to make it work. As far as the button

its as fast as it looks like in the video but it got me into trouble 2 times last night at a match. All you have to do is brush it and the mag is gone. So it will take some getting used to.

But if anyone has gotten the trigger finger release lever to work I sure would like to know how.

My release lever did the same thing...until I applied a little TW-25B to the stainless steel spacer...now all is well.

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12 hours ago, sx2gl35 said:

My release lever did the same thing...until I applied a little TW-25B to the stainless steel spacer...now all is well.

I put some Super Lube on it and got it to work a little bit but it was still hard to press.

I am going to polish the edges to a mirror finish then try it again.

For now put the button back on.

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I am considering making a stock but plate out of starboard in the shape of the MBX "Fang" .

I have to almost hold the rifle on top of my shoulder to get a good cheek weld with a Cmore on the gun.

Looking for ideas.

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6 hours ago, ekraus said:

I am considering making a stock but plate out of starboard in the shape of the MBX "Fang" .

I have to almost hold the rifle on top of my shoulder to get a good cheek weld with a Cmore on the gun.

Looking for ideas.

My C-More and Vortex Prism are the same, center of window is about 1 5/8" above the Picatinny...nice chin weld.

 

The center of the window on my Vortex Venom is about 13/16" above the Picatinny (and weighs 1.1oz)...great normal cheek weld.  Snap up from the low ready and there's the dot, right in the middle of the window YMMV.

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I would prefer a stronger spring for the mag release...I accidentally touched the mag release with the back of my thumb near the palm,  when switching to weak side during a match this weekend...didn't realize it,  took the first shot then nothing...had to reload with new mag...cost me precious time.

 

 

 

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On 4/22/2018 at 1:01 PM, sx2gl35 said:

My C-More and Vortex Prism are the same, center of window is about 1 5/8" above the Picatinny...nice chin weld.

 

The center of the window on my Vortex Venom is about 13/16" above the Picatinny (and weighs 1.1oz)...great normal cheek weld.  Snap up from the low ready and there's the dot, right in the middle of the window YMMV.

I was actually looking to get a vortex spitfire prism sight for it, is it really that bad? Got a picture please?

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3 hours ago, polymerfeelsweirdman said:

I was actually looking to get a vortex spitfire prism sight for it, is it really that bad? Got a picture please?

I'm one of the few left who do not have a camera.   It's definitely that bad; all hopes of a proper cheek weld are gone.  You have astigmatism or you wouldn't be looking at the prism...so do I and I held off buying the Venom and C-More because of it.  Got the C-More for an AR and the dot is grapes at higher intensities; I use it at 4 clicks and no problem at all (first 2 clicks are for night vision and unseen).   Ditto on the Venom at 1-2 pushes on.  For me, the Venom is a lot better than looking down a tube.  It looks like Tim has an MRO on his and that is similar, but looks a little higher than the Venom to me.

Edited by sx2gl35
Added last sentence.
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27 minutes ago, barrysuperhawk said:

The vortex venom is certainly low, and that seems to be the hot ticket.

And light too.  The Spitfire Prism weighs 8.7oz and the C-More 5oz-6.5oz; the Venom 1.1oz.

 

With the Venom, all of Tim's Go-Fast parts (except comp; not in a free state), and with CT CMR-206 Green Laser (nice deal Tactical Gear and CT has on those, got a free CMR-201 incoming) my RPCC weighs 7.056# no mag.  I removed the stock ghost ring sights, and have two of Tim's charging handles on it.

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runnin this up against an AR in 300 Blackout.. for a ranch/ truck HD gun,,, needs to be accurate enough,, 
So realistically what kinda groups at 100 meters can be expected from sand bagged scoped Ruger PCC ?

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12 hours ago, Joe4d said:

runnin this up against an AR in 300 Blackout.. for a ranch/ truck HD gun,,, needs to be accurate enough,, 
So realistically what kinda groups at 100 meters can be expected from sand bagged scoped Ruger PCC ?

I'd like to know that too, so I can buy another one if it's good enough!  Not what you asked for, but when zeroing the Venom at 50 yds off a pistol rest and not trying that hard; a one-half inch vertical string of 3 rounds using WinClean 115g (no fliers, 3 round string only).

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On 4/22/2018 at 6:51 AM, ekraus said:

I am considering making a stock but plate out of starboard in the shape of the MBX "Fang" .

I have to almost hold the rifle on top of my shoulder to get a good cheek weld with a Cmore on the gun.

Looking for ideas.

I mounted a Burris XTR 1-4 and made a raised cheekpiece out of kydex.

 

On 4/25/2018 at 1:59 AM, Joe4d said:

runnin this up against an AR in 300 Blackout.. for a ranch/ truck HD gun,,, needs to be accurate enough,, 
So realistically what kinda groups at 100 meters can be expected from sand bagged scoped Ruger PCC ?

Could be the overtravel on the stock trigger but best group I got with 124 PD handloads was 5 shots into 2.5 inches. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my Ruger about three weeks ago and shot it in an Outlaw Steel match this past week-end.  Did not do that well, but it was not the firearm's fault.  Ammo problems and the dot on my cheap Chinese sight went out a couple of times.  For now I will stick to steel with this, just like my C/O gun, but if I do decide to try USPSA with it, I will definitely go with the TAACOM bolt handle and Mag Release Button.

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On 4/22/2018 at 6:51 AM, ekraus said:

I am considering making a stock but plate out of starboard in the shape of the MBX "Fang" .

I have to almost hold the rifle on top of my shoulder to get a good cheek weld with a Cmore on the gun.

Looking for ideas.

I made a temporary cheek rest out of strips of yoga mat and athletic wrap. It sits up 1/2". It worked but I need a little bit more to get the correct view of the Cmore dot.

Then i think I may get the Baretta Gel Tec cheek pad and put some adhesive foam from Wallmart under it to get it to the proper height and be done with that issue. My next

project may be to cut a triangle out of the stock. The gun has great balance but its a bit heavy. I also think I finally found the load but haven't chroned it yet.

115g  over 4.8g HP38 at 1.135. Using an Alchin Comp. Double tap groups are about 1". The guns is sweet!

 

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